Showing posts with label crochet. Show all posts
Showing posts with label crochet. Show all posts

Saturday, October 29, 2011

Simply Beanie

Hey, look! A pattern! While i have been trying to remember how i made a couple knitted hats, i crocheted a totally different one :)
i found my app called Catch really helpful with note taking so i could remember all the steps i took to make my hat... i used to only use it to make lists of books, yeah i'm a monster of boring.
it's a really easy hat that only uses CH, SC (and sl st to join, but if you like to do the spiral thingie with no joins then hardly even that i guess). i made it using Red Heart Shimmer, which is kinda thin, it's labeled as medium weight yarn but it's skinnier than my other medium stuff.. please crochet LOOSELY if you use the same yarn to make this hat or it will be TIGHT
i used a G hook, if you have a tight tension use a bigger hook

Materials:
1 skein Red Heart Shimmer (or other med yarn)
Size G hook (US)
Scissors

Pattern:
CH 4, join with SL ST to form ring
1. CH 1, make 12 SC in ring, join with SL ST to top of first SC
2. CH 1, make 2 SC in each SC around, join with SL ST to top of first SC in round
3. CH 1, make 1 SC in each SC around, join with SL T to top of first SC in round
4. Repeat round 3
5. CH1, make 1 SC in first SC, 2 SC in next. Make (1 SC in next SC, 2 SC in next), around. Join with SL ST to top of first SC in round
6. CH 1, make 1 SC in each of first 2 SC, 2 SC in next. Make (1 SC in each of next 2 SC, 2 SC in next) around. Join with SL ST to top of first SC in round
7. Repeat round 3
8. CH 1, make 1 SC in each of first 3 SC, 2 SC in next. Make (1 SC in each of next 3 SC, 2 SC in next) around. Join with SL ST to top of first SC in round
9. CH 1, make 1 SC in each of first 4 SC, 2 SC in next. Make (1 SC in each of next 4 SC, 2 SC in next) around. Join with SL ST to top of first SC in round
10 & 11. Repeat round 3
12. CH 1, make 1 SC in each of next 5 SC, 2 SC in next. Make (1 SC in each of next 5 SC, 2 SC in next) around. Join with SL ST to top of first SC in round
13 to 40(or to desired length). Repeat round 3

Fasten off ends, enjoy beanie!





<-- Mari (with the creepy eyeballs and the awesome hat)

Wednesday, July 14, 2010

Sweet Pea


i found a tiny amount of red heart soft yarn in my "stash" (which is really just a cardboard box with LIVE PLANTS written on it full of yarn) and i really wanted to use it. but it was such a little bit.. so i decided to make a baby thingie. it's not a sweater, it's a shirt... it looks kinda like a kimono to me but i dunno.

heres a picture of the edging, crab stitch (reverse sc) which is totally optional in the pattern but i'm friggin obsessed right now.
so anyway, the pattern, yes?
Materials :
soft WW yarn (about 2-3 oz)
US aluminum size F hook
scissors
ch 43
  • 1) dc in 4th ch from hook and in each of next 4. make V stitch (dc, ch1, dc) in next st. dc in each of next 6 sts, make V stitch in next. dc in each of next 12 dc, V stitch in next. dc in each of next 6 sts, V stitch in next. dc in each of last 6 sts.
  • 2) turn, ch3 to count as first dc. dc in each dc, V stitch in each ch1 space.
  • 3-5) repeat Row 2
  • 6) turn, ch3 to count as first dc, dc in each dc up to the first ch1 space. dc in ch1 space. skip across all the next dc's to the 2nd ch1 space, dc in ch1 space and in each dc across to 3rd ch1 space. dc in ch1 space, skip across all the next dc's to 4th ch1 space. dc in ch1 space and in each remaining dc. this makes the arm holes
  • 7) now instead of turning, make a slip stitch to bride the last stitch of the previous row to the first ch3 of the same previous row. ch3 to count as first dc and you will now be working in rounds.. dc in each dc around, join with sl st to top of beginning ch3.
  • 8-15) ch3, dc in each dc around, join with sl st to top of beginning ch 3.
    at end of round 15 do not fasten off
    work 1 round of crab stitch (reverse sc)
  • fasten off and attach yarn to neck and armholes respectively to repeat crab stitch edging process
this is my original pattern, please do not sell the pattern since i provide it for free here. print a copy for personal or charitable use, thanks.

Mari

Monday, March 1, 2010

Mouse Ears Hat (edited but not "fixed")

**An Edit In Response To Many Replies:
10/10/2011 -- I made this hat intending it to fit a 2 year old child, but people are coming up with a much smaller size. While my version fit its victim snuggly, different hands create in different sizes. This pattern was posted for fun and for free, after I made it for one specific child with no other size adjustments. I'm not a professional designer and there's no refunds on freely shared ideas, all I can say is I wanted to share, sorry that it's not perfect. **


it's supposed to be able to fit a 2 yr old, but i don't have a 2 yr old on hand to see if it really does :) i usually don't care if nobody comments on my posts but it would be helpful to me if those who try this hat would tell me what size it actually is. anyways here's the pattern (crochet!!!)

Materials used:
1 or 2 oz of WW yarn (i used caron one pound)
Size I hook (i used US size aluminum)
scissors

Hat:
ch 2
1- make 8 sc in 2nd ch from hook. join with sl st to top of first sc.
2- make 2 sc in each sc around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (16 sc around)
3- make (sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (24 sc around)
4- make (sc in each of next 2 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (32 sc around)
5- make (sc in each of next 3 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (40 sc around)
6- make (sc in each of next 4 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (48 sc around)
7-19) make sc in each sc around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (48 sc around)
20- work one row of reverse sc.
Fasten off yarn, weave in ends.

Ears: (make 2)
ch 2
1- make 8 sc in 2nd ch from hook. join with sl st to top of first sc.
2- make 2 sc in each sc around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (16 sc around)
3- make (sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (24 sc around)
4- make (sc in each of next 2 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (32 sc around)
5- make sc in each sc around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (32 sc around)
Fasten off yarn, leaving a long tail to sew ears to hat.
Enjoy!

this is my original pattern, please do not sell. do not redistribute in any form of publication or email. link to my pages to share. print out a copy for your personal use if desired.

Mari

Tuesday, February 16, 2010

Nook Case


i made a case for my Nook ;)
paulie got it for me for my birthday, and i am struggling with paranoia about it...
i really, really reallyreally don't want to break/scuff/scratch/drop it. cuz i have a terrible history of so maiming all things electronic


my lining skills are second-hand... i cut the cloth too big and pretended i did that on purpose :)
i call it "rouching" lol. or something.

so anyway if any of u have a Nook or similar sized e-reader it's really easy to make a case (mine is crochet, i will eventually get around to making a knit one, also just as simply made)
i used an aluminum size J hook (US) and some chunky yarn because i wanted the thing to be squishy enough to protect the Nook in case it got dropped. heh.
here's what i did:
chain 16
sc in 2nd ch from hook and each across, putting 3 sc into the last sc.
then turn your work and make an sc in each of the loops on the foundation chain.
yes, you're going in a non-circular circle.
when you get to the last chain of the loopies on the foundation chain, put 2 sc's in there instead of one or three. yes, 2.
join with sl st if you prefer. i know some people don't like to join but i do because i always lose track of my rounds if i don't. stich markers, schmitch markers.. shutup.
now just keep making sc in each sc, until you have about 28 rounds. this is how many rounds my case has but yours might need more or less depending on some things that are not in my control.
fasten off when your e-reader fits inside :)
i made my lining by cutting a rectangle (if you ever took home economics or had a maternal/paternal figure that had a sewing machine, you have probably been forced/encouraged to make a pillow case for a grade or otherwise) and sewing it into a pouch.
its easier to cut one piece and fold it in half and sew up 2 sides rather than cut 2 pieces and sew them together evenly. especially if you dont have sewing pins.
...then sew the pouch into the case. that part should be done by hand and not by machine, because it will get messy.

i hope this has made sense :)
Mari

Saturday, November 14, 2009

Stripey Hat with Brim


i made this hat with an aluminum size I hook (US), using Red Heart Super Saver. i don't really like this yarn, but i recently just got a crapton of it after a visit to my mom's house. rescued yarn i was determined to make rescue-able :) i used less than one skein of either color. you can use one color or stripe as much as you want obviously, but either way it will be less than a skein you use.


the brim i made and then thought it was too floppy so i cut a piece off of the back of my spiral notebook at school, it's one long piece folded in half and then sewed up. the crab stitch lining actually closes up the ends of the brim, and the most difficult part of making this hat is probably either cutting the cardboardy stuff or crab stitching the long part of the brim. blech. it was easy but i'm naturally complainy about friggin everything.


super easy, super fun, all you need to know is SC, Reverse SC or crabstitch, SL ST, and how to weave yarn in and out between stitch holes lol. color changes are easy, don't ever be intimidated by stupid crap. also, practice makes awesome :)
Pattern Below!!! (pattern is for hat in pic with exact stripeys)

with first color, ch2
  1. make 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook. join to top of first sc with sl st. (4 sc around)
  2. ch1 (this never counts as a stitch and you will always work the first sc in the same st as joining.) 2sc in each sc around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (8 sc around)
  3. ch1, make (sc in sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (12 sc around)
  4. ch1, make (2sc in each sc) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (24 sc around)
  5. ch1, make (2sc in sc, 1 sc in each of next 2) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (32 sc around)
  6. ch1, sc in each sc around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (32 sc around)
  7. ch1, make (sc in each of next 3 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (40 sc around)
  8. ch1, sc in each sc around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (40 sc around)
  9. ch1, make (sc in each of next 4 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (48 sc around)
  10. ch1, sc in each sc around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (48 sc around)
  11. ch1, make (sc in each of next 5 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (56 sc around)
  12. ch1, sc in each sc around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (56 sc around)
  13. ch1, make (sc in each of next 6 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (64 sc around)
  14. ch1, sc in each sc around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (64 sc around)
  15. ch1, make (sc in each of next 7 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (72 sc around)
  16. thru 21. ch1, sc in each sc around. at end of round 21, fasten off first color. (you do not have to fasten off, you can leave the first color hanging until you finish each row, and carry it up in your finishing sl st until you need it)
  • work 2 rounds evenly in second color, fasten off. you have 23 rounds
  • work 3 rounds evenly in first color, fasten off. you have 26 rounds
  • work 2 rounds evenly in second color, fasten off. you have 28 rounds
  • work 2 rounds evenly in first color, do not fasten off. you have 30 rounds
to work brim, do not turn yet. with first color still attached, sl st about 22 stitches, keep it loose but neat so the hat can stretch but not look wobbly. in the 22nd stitch about, ch1 (remember the ch1 never counts as a stitch)
  • sc in each of next 26 stitches. you can do more or less depending on the width of brim you want. i made 26 though. ch1, turn.
  • make about 11 rows (again depending on your preference if you want a short or long brim you can add or subtract rows). make sure the last row you work is going the same direction your first row went, away from the sl st's of the brim start.
  • fold brim in half without fastening yarn off. your working yarn loop will be by the outside edge of the hat.
  • sl st into same st as last sc of first row of brim. it sounds kinda confusing maybe but it makes sense, break it down slowly if you have to. you're basically folding and tacking without sewing the short ends of the brim.
  • sl st evenly along edge of hat, all the way around until you get to stitches that already have sl st's in them. fasten off yarn and weave in ends.
now you will attach the second color to the same stitch as joining, or if you carried the yarn over, huzzah, and grab it. ch 1,
  • make reverse sc (crab stitches) all along the hat evenly. when you get to the brim, you will work up the unsewn side (thus sewing it together) evenly, then working the needle through the holes of row 6 or 7 (again, evenly. don't worry about making the "3sc corner stitch" or whatever, put one stitch in each hole so the edges get rounded slightly) then work down the other short edge and around the rest of the hat. fasten off yarn and weave in ends.
to make the brim more solid, cut a piece of cardboard or paperboard, make slightly smaller all over than the actual crochet brim, and stick that in the little pocket. (look under your hat, you made the brim a pocket- tah-dah!)

then using first color strand of yarn, sew the opening shut using a weave-y technique so the pattern stays smooth.
and voila, a stripey hat for you :)

this is my original pattern, do not sell. do not copy/post/distribute in any form. link to my pages to share patterns. print out a copy for your personal use. do not sell finished products.
Mari <3

Tuesday, November 3, 2009

Mimi Hat


took me a lil longer than it should have to finish this hat. it's very simple and only uses sc stitches and sl st to join. i named this hat after one of my aunts :) because it's made in a vibrant color and its simple stitches create a beautiful pattern with a soft drape. it's elegant and practical (i.e. warm as heck)

Materials:
1 skein of Bernat Satin (i used the color Aqua)
aluminum US size I hook (for hat "body")
aluminum US size G hook (for hat brim)
scissors! (ya, you will have to make 2 whole snips)
optional: yarn needle (for neat pretty seam on brim)

Pattern:
with I hook, ch2

1. 10 sc in 2nd ch from hook, join with sl st to top of first sc. (10 sc around)
work in BL ONLY always.

2. ch1 (which never counts as a stitch), 2sc in each sc around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (20 sc around)

3. ch1, sc in same st as joining, 2sc in next sc. work (sc in next sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (30 sc around)

4. ch1, sc in same st as joining and in next, 2sc in next sc. work (sc in each of next 2 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (40 sc around)

5. ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 2, 2sc in next sc. work (sc in each of next 3 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (50 sc around)

6. ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 3, 2sc in next sc. work (sc in each of next 4 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (60 sc around)

7. ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 4, 2sc in next sc. work (sc in each of next 5 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (70 sc around)

8. ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 5, 2sc in next sc. work (sc in each of next 6 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (80 sc around)

9. ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 6, 2sc in next sc. work (sc in each of next 7 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (90 sc around)

10. ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 7, 2sc in next sc. work (sc in each of next 8 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (100 sc around)

11. ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 8, 2sc in next sc. work (sc in each of next 9 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (110 sc around)

12. ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 9, 2sc in next sc. work (sc in each of next 10 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (120 sc around)

13-26. ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each sc around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (120 sc around)

at end of round 26, fasten off yarn and weave in ends.


Now to make the Brim:
with G hook, ch 13 (make sure to leave a long tail at the start for sewing)

1. sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across. (12 sc)
remember to work in BL ONLY :)

2-76. ch1 (which never counts as a stitch), sc in each sc across. (12 sc)

if you have a smaller or larger head, adjust rows accordingly :) try to end with an even number row so that it looks uniform when you sew it all up (which is the next step!)
DO NOT FASTEN OFF yet (if you did... meh, you can always just join the yarn again)

use yarn needle to sew brim into a circular "fits around my head" headband tube.
THEN!!! fold the headband in half lengthwise, so the thickness is doubled but it still fits around your head. sc ends together. don't use sl st because you will need the sc's there to work on.
join with sl st to top of first sc.


remember you're working in BL ONLY
work 2 more rows of sc around the headband (still using G hook), increasing evenly or randomly (whichever, hehe) so that you have 120 sc's around. you need to have that many so you can match the first part of the hat to the 2nd part.

MATCH seam to seam the 2 parts. it's easy if you stick the hat body RS facing into the WS facing headband and sl st together.
once you have stitched everything together, fasten off yarn and weave in ends. just flip the brim up and you have the Mimi Hat!




This is my original pattern. Do not sell this pattern. Do not copy or publish to any other publication. Do not send pattern in emails. Link to my pages to share. Print out a copy for your personal use. Do not sell products made using this pattern.

Mari <3

Monday, October 26, 2009

Heh heh heh...

yesterday i decided that the yarny store is friggin off limits... no more yarny store til next MONTH! :) there. i put my foot down.
everytime i go there i spend at least 80 dollars :( and i never go there when i dont have the money but holy craps. like, no wonder i used to order mill ends online. i have a strange addiction to yarn :)(: which i'm sure every knitter/crochetier/fiber arts junkie can relate to. but i just recently got kind of picky actually. i've never been picky with yarn. it must be the K word (in case you're not hip to the scene i recently started knitting, after being strictly and exclusively a crochet nut). just sayin', cuz that's the only change in my diet.
ohhh yeah i gotta blog about my superawesome new circular knitting needles :) i have like two sets already but theyr aluminum. this pair is bamboo! !!!
omg. i've been bamboozled. i have NEVER knitted or crocheted with anything other than aluminum or plastic (remember, i'm cheeeeeap) but i "splurged" and got bamboo circs cuz they were the only ones in the store that were 16" around (i know, excuses excuses). they smell nice. they FEEL nice. they friggin GLIDE through all my yarns and yeenings (i tested them on literally everything i have). wow. and now for a pretty bad pic!

so lol on another topic, school is fun. funfunfun. i have school 4 days a week, 2 classes each term, 5 weeks a term, in an 11 month program (ya icky math eh). and i like both my classes.
in one i learn all about computers, like everything in and around them including the intarwebz and cool programs like Microsoft Office Word. Word. they're teaching me how to manipulate document-y and presentation-y stuff superprofessionally so i can get paidddd. i like that.
in the other one i learn how to succeed. yep. 100%.
we focus on feeding our brains the way they like to be fed so they can process crap and make it relative to the stuff thats already in there. it's a fun class for me but like everybody else in the class thinks its a boring waste of time. i love boring wastes of time, for reasons unknown even to me.
every day that i go to school i bring my knitting to work on during breaks lol. i haven't forgotten about crochet, i'm still working on a couple of my projects, but with crochet i always find myself needing to write my directions out (i don't usually use patterns) and then obsessing about something or other. with knitting i can just "work in pattern stitch for __ inches" and i dont have to count my rows because honestly i think your eyeballs are in danger of falling out of your head every time you try to count knitted rows. i dunno there might be ppl who disagree but that's how i feel.
i found that little monkey hat that i had made for paulie's sister's kid, and i turned it into a shopping bag. would we consider that recycling? or just frogging? it made me a little sad to think that i had actually made something for that girl. it wasnt honestly for her child, it was for her so she could put it on her child geez no baby goes around happy to be in a hat. or in clothes either in some cases. pity and prayer, but nothing will ever leave my hand to fall into hers. not because i'm mean but because in the heart of my mind i know this:
anything that is not given in love should never be given at all. especially a thing which is made with hands. it carries all the blessings of the Creator, and all the faults of the created.
be blessed.

Mari <3

Thursday, October 8, 2009

Make Your Point



lol. sorry.
i finished this hat yesterday morning but hadnt gotten to post the pattern because of horrendous work hours :) it's made of peaches n creme cotton and i'm not sure if its the result of tight crocheting or cuz the yarn is stiff.. but the hat is kinda.. well not the squishy kind. it's not unyielding but it's definitely got self esteem.



i used about one and a half skeins i think :) i took a weird "over the head to the side" pic to show the shape of the hat while i was wearing it.. lol it turned out hilarious as you can see but i think it's cute. anyways you have to have like 5 eyes to see it the way it is in the picture. ok pattern is under the next pic, promise :P



i used hooks sized H and G (US), aluminum. it fits my head closely but not tightly. a note- wear this hat high and pushed up on your head, so it feels like a headband before you push it all the way up.

with H hook-
ch4 and join to form a ring.

1. 10 sc in ring, join with sl st to top of first sc. (10 sc around)

2. make 2sc in each sc around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (20 sc around)

3. sc in each sc around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (20 sc around)

4. make (sc in sc, 2sc in next) around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (30 sc around)

5. sc in each sc around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (30 sc around)

6. make (sc in each of next 2 sc, 2sc in next) around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (40 sc around)

7. sc in each sc around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (40 sc around)

8. make (sc in each of next 3 sc, 2sc in next) around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (50 sc around)

9. sc in each sc around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (50 sc around)

10. make (sc in each of next 4 sc, 2sc in next) around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (60 sc around)

11. sc in each sc around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (60 sc around)

12. make (sc in each of next 5 sc, 2sc in next) around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (70 sc around)

13. sc in each sc around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (70 sc around)

14. make (sc in each of next 6 sc, 2sc in next) around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (80 sc around)

15. sc in each sc around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (80 sc around)

16. make (sc in each of next 7 sc, 2sc in next) around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (90 sc around)

17. sc in each sc around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (90 sc around)

18. make (sc in each of next 8 sc, 2sc in next) around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (100 sc around)

19. sc in each sc around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (100 sc around)

20. make (sc in each of next 9 sc, 2sc in next) around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (110 sc around)

21. sc in each sc around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (110 sc around)

22. make (sc in each of next 10 sc, 2sc in next) around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (120 sc around)

23-29. sc in each sc around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (120 sc around)

Switch to G hook at end of Round 29- (work in bl only)

30. sc in each sc around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (120 sc around)

31. make (sc in each of next 22 sc, sc2tog over next 2 sc) around. (92 sc around)

32. sc in each sc around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (92 sc around)

Fasten off yarn, weave in ends.

This is my original pattern. Do not sell this pattern. Do not copy and/or distribute via any form of publication or email. Do not sell products made from this pattern. Please feel free to print a copy of the pattern for your personal use. Link to my blog pages to share patterns.

<3 Mari

Monday, September 28, 2009

My Curly Clown

This is my version of a clown my mom used to make. She winged them (meaning she made them up as she went) so there was no pattern. i know that she used sc for the arms and legs but i'm lazy and i like things fast, so i used dc. when she saw him in person she was like "he's so skinny!" lol. my version was on a diet, and he's also apparently smaller than the ones she made. oh well.
you'll need stuffing, like a couple fists full
i used one ball of peaches n creme cotton and an aluminum size G hook (US) for the body
for the hat i used the same hook but different yarn, it was like baby weight yarn. took for friggin ever to get the hat done cuz i had to work so much over the past couple days... :)
also the hat is different in my version. my mom's was more pointed nightcap looking with a pompom on the end, and it had a ruffle on the brim as well as around the neck.



SO!! here goes. i started with the arms. (make 2)

ch 30
- dc in 4th ch from hook.
4dc in each ch across to last ch.
dc in last ch.
Fasten off yarn.
(the yarn curls/ruffles as you work, smooth it in the direction you want)

NOW!! the legs. (make 2)

ch 40
- dc in 4th ch from hook.
4dc in each ch across to last ch.
dc in last ch.
Fasten off yarn.

AND!! the head. (make one ;) )

ch 2
- 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- ch1, 2sc in each sc around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- ch1, sc in same st as joining, 2sc in next. (sc in next sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- ch1, sc in same st as joining and in next. 2sc in next. (sc in next 2 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 2. 2sc in next. (sc in each of next 3 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 3. 2sc in next. (sc in each of next 4 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 4. 2sc in next. (sc in each of next 5 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each sc around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- repeat last step until there are a total of 6 rounds in plain sc.

- ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 4. (sc2tog, sc in each of next 5 sc) around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 3. (sc2tog, sc in each of next 4 sc) around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 2. (sc2tog, sc in each of next 3 sc) around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- ch1, sc in same st as joining and in next. (sc2tog, sc in each of next 2 sc) around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- ch1, sc in same st as joining. (sc2tog, sc in next sc) around. join with sl st to top of fist sc.

- by this point you should be stuffing the head. don't worry about overstuffing, this stuff squishes and flattens and all of whatever.

- ch2, (sc2tog) around. this round will about close up the hole.

- Fasten off yarn, leaving a long enough tail to sew the little hole shut for sure.

sew the arms and legs to the head
you can paint on your face or embroider it (i tried that even though i sucked at it). or u can get those safety eyeballs that i've seen and admired but could totally not afford.

THEN!! the hat. i did mine in baby yarn and will give my pattern for it but you can totally use other thicker yarn with a few less rounds from the pattern.

ch4, join with sl st to form ring

- make 10 sc in ring. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- sc in each sc. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- 2sc in each sc around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- sc in each sc. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- sc in first sc, 2sc in next. ( sc in sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- sc in each sc. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- sc in first sc and in next, 2sc in next sc. ( sc in each of next 2 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- sc in each sc. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- sc in first sc and in each of next 2, 2sc in next sc. (sc in each of next 3 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- sc in each sc. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- sc in first sc and in each of next 3, 2sc in next sc. (sc in each of next 4 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- sc in each sc. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- sc in first sc and in each of next 4, 2sc in next sc. (sc in each of next 5 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- sc in each sc. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- sc in first sc and in each of next 5, 2sc in next sc. (sc in each of next 6 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- sc in each sc. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- sc in first sc and in each of next 6, 2sc in next sc. (sc in each of next 7 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- sc in each sc. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- sc in first sc and in each of next 7, 2sc in next sc. (sc in each of next 8 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- sc in each sc. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- sc in first sc and in each of next 8, 2sc in next sc. (sc in each of next 9 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- sc in each sc. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- sc in first sc and in each of next 9, 2sc in next sc. (sc in each of next 10 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- sc in each sc. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- repeat last step until there are a total of 4 rows of plain sc.

put hat on head, fasten in place if you like.

this is my original pattern. do not copy or post to any other publication. do not sell this pattern or copies of this pattern, or the products made from it. link to my pages to share if you like. you may print out a copy for your personal use.

<3 Mari

Thursday, September 24, 2009

He still needs a name...


But i'm not in a hurry cuz he's not done yet.
i posted about him on Ravelry.. (ya, i finally joined, mostly to look at pictures)
he's inspired by my mom's original "pattern", which she never wrote out lol, and which she made a friggin ton of when i was a little girl. ok, friggin ton is an exaggeration.
but my version has a creepy sad but smiley face, since i suck at embroidery. his eyeballs look like super-eyebrows, no?
i'm not done with his hat i'm gonna take my work to work lol, and try to finish it there. and maybe i'll add the ruffle around his neck like my mom's clowns had. i dunno.
i realized long ago that i can't make myself too ambitious or i'll never do what i want to do because the thought would get too overwhelming. yeah, weird.
so anyways, ok. i'll post on the progress!


<3 Mari

Wednesday, September 16, 2009

Marisa


i just finished this hat.. excuse my face :)
i used a small amount of yarn from a Caron One Pound skein, i'm not certain how much, maybe 2 to 4 ounces? the color is Cream 589 and it made me think of my mom.
the skein was sitting there begging me to make a hat with it, so i did. it was very simple. very very simple. it looks much better and less like a washerwoman's head-dress if you wear it high and tilted on your head and close to the hairline, almost like a headband.
here's the pattern ;)

Materials:
WW yarn (i.e. Caron One Pound. Simply Soft is too thin and will result in a hat for a tiny head.)
US size H hook or equivalent for hat
US size G hook or equivalent for cuff



Using H hook
ch4

1. 9 dc in 4th ch from hook. Join with sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch4. (10 dc)

2. ch3 to count as first dc. dc in same st as joining. Make 2 dc in each dc around. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch3. (20 dc)

3. ch3 to count as first dc. dc in same st as joining and in next. Make (2dc in next dc, dc in next) around. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch3. (30 dc)

4. ch3 to count as first dc. dc in same st as joining and in each of next 2 dc's. Make (2dc in next dc, dc in each of next 2) around. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch3. (40 dc)

5. ch3 to count as first dc. dc in same st as joining and in each of next 3 dc's. Make (2dc in next dc, dc in each of next 3) around. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch3. (50 dc)

6. ch3 to count as first dc. dc in same st as joining and in each of next 4 dc's. Make (2dc in next dc, dc in each of next 4) around. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch3. (60 dc)

7. repeat Round 4. (90 dc)

8. ch3 to count as first dc. dc in next dc and in each around. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch3. (90 dc)

9-15. repeat Round 8.

At end of Round 15, fasten off yarn and weave in ends.

Make Cuff Using G Hook:

ch9
1. sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across. (8 sc)

2. ch1, turn. working in bl only, sc in each sc across. (8 sc)

3-76. repeat Row 2.

At end of Row 76, do not fasten off. Instead, ch1 and work 90 sc's evenly along long edge of strip. This is the side that will attach to the bottom of the hat.

Turn hat inside out so WS of work is facing you. Also turn cuff so WS is facing out towards you.
Sl st cuff to hat evenly.
Sew short ends of cuff together while it is still inside out so that the seam won't show when you turn it right side in.
Cut yarn and weave in ends neatly.

Here is a picture of the hat without a head in it :)
so cute.


Please do not sell this pattern, or claim it as your own. Please do not sell the finished work from this pattern. Do not copy this pattern to any other website or publication. Please feel free to post a link of my pattern to share. You may print out a copy for your personal use.



<3 Mari

Monday, March 2, 2009

Spring-y Cloche (that's a type of hat)


i had a small amount of super bright green.. i think it's Caron Simply Soft Brites, probly about 3 oz. it was such a weirdo funky color green that it had to be made into a hat for me :)
i used an aluminum size I hook (US)

Make a magic ring

1) Make 12 sc in ring, join and pull tight. (i join at the end of my rounds no matter what, since i don't mind the seam, but you don't have to)

2) Make 2 sc in each sc around. (24 sc around)

3) sc in each sc around.

4) sc in first sc, 2sc in next. (sc in sc, 2 sc in next) around. (36 sc around)

5) sc in each sc around.

6) sc in first two sc, 2sc in next. (sc in next two sc, 2sc in next) around. (48 sc around)

7) sc in each sc around.

8) sc in first three sc, 2sc in next. (sc in next 3 sc, 2sc in next) around. (60 sc around)

9) sc in each sc around.

10) sc in first four sc, 2sc in next. (sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next) around. (72 sc around)

11) sc in each sc around.

12) sc in first five sc, 2sc in next. (sc in next 5 sc, 2sc in next) around. (84 sc around)

13-38) sc in each sc around. (84 sc around)

this is not the first nor will it be the last hat pattern of its kind. there are a ton of "cloche" or "flapper hat" patterns out there. mine is just a simple version of a 20s clothing accesory which i choose to share here in case anyone is interested in my method.

make, share, etsy/ebay, donate, but do not mass produce for profit. do not sell this pattern. do not redistribute this pattern. please link back to share. feel free to print a copy of the pattern.

Sunday, January 18, 2009

Pretty Motif Thingie


well, i havent taken this off the hook yet because i keep thinking that it can totally definitely be expanded..
but also the reason im posting now it cuz dont you think this little motif thingie would look awesome joined together? like say at the points for a kinda sharp pointed hexagon beadspread or tablecloth? yes, me too.
ok so i used cotton thread, i dunno what number it is cuz its Mill Ends and there wasnt a label. but it's thicker by a lil than the size 10 (only thread ive ever crocheted with) and it has kinda a ropey feel to it, while staying super thin.
and also i used an aluminum size C hook (US)
which i know isn't really a thready hook but it's the smallest hook in my collection i could find at the moment...
Anyways, here we go:

chain 8, join with sl st to form ring.

1) ch3 to count as first dc, make 23 more dc's in ring. join with sl st to top of beginning ch3.

2) chain 1, sc in same space as joining. ch5,* skip 1 stitch, sc in next, ch5*. repeat from * to * around, ending by joining with a sl st to top of first sc. (ignore all beginning chain 1's they are not stitches)

3) sl st up to 3rd chain of first ch5 space. chain 1, sc in same stitch. ch5, *sc in 3rd chain of next ch5 space, ch5.* repeat from * to * around, ending by joining with a sl st to top of first sc.

4) sl st up to 3rd chain of first ch5 space. chain 1, sc in same stitch. ch7, *sc in 3rd chain of next ch5 space, ch7.* repeat from * to * around, ending by joining with a sl st to top of first sc.

5) sl st into first ch7 space. chain 3 to count as first dc, make 6 more dc in space, ch3, make 7 dc in same space. ch3, sl st in next ch7 space, ch3. *make (7dc, ch3, 7dc) in next ch7 space. ch3, sl st in next ch7 space, ch3.* repeat from * to * around, ending by joining with a sl st to top of beginning ch3.

this is my original pattern. please do not sell this pattern, or copy to any other website or publication. you may post links to my blog to share. feel free to print out a copy for yourself. you may sell what you make from this pattern, not in mass quantity.

<3 Mari

Tuesday, November 11, 2008

A Post For November :P

well i haven't really quit crocheting, i just kinda slowed down. since life and work and having to get in some sleep have taken up a lot of my free time :)
i'm still working on some things... like different fingerless gloves, paulie's hat from the one movie that we saw, a scrap afghan, and i gave up on that cotton thing for now. i ran out of materials and i need to figure out how to make more with less... so i'm waiting on the blue moon for some extra thinking time.
i did make some coasters, they are rainbow sherbert colored and terrible. tiny squares of ick. and luckily no picture available :) but i will show u what i made from other people's patterns! lol
i made two doilies both from CrochetPatty.com ... the antlia doily and the aquarius doily. both excellent and quick to work up if you don't mind having to look at the picture for deeper instruction. they both finished up in about 2 to 3 days :)

here is antlia: i took the pic with my phone so it doesn't show very super good... the color is pure white but somehow the light made it turn blue


the second one is aquarius, which was harder than antlia because of pieces missing from the pattern, but the pic on the website i got it from was pretty good so i could just follow along with that at times


and that's all ive been able to do! oh yeah, i started on another doily from Celt's Vintage Crochet website which is in fact this one in particular: http://www.angelfire.com/folk/celtwich/Doily7797.html
i think it's really cute, i had a little trouble understanding the tr tr part after the ch 6 (round 3) but then i just made a "tr that was long enough to equal the length of the ch 6 minus the top chain" lol i dunno if that makes sense but it did for me.
it's turning out pretty well so far

<3 Mari

Sunday, October 19, 2008

Commie Mitts (fingerless gloves)


Alright so maybe they're not. But they can have their raving illogical delusions sometimes. i made these in my favorite colors, which i have been teased for in the past. They work up really fast and are all sc, the thing that some people might have a *tiny* problem with is the sizing. i have thin hands and fingers, and sometimes the only store bought gloves/mittens that will fit me are a kids size (the stretchy knit kind) So if while working on this pattern you find that they look too small for yourself, it will be easy to just add a few more stitches to the foundation, and a few more rows to the body :) Here goes the pattern:


Materials:
fingering weight yarn (about 1 oz per mitt)
aluminum size E hook (US)

(the mitts in the pic are multicolored but the directions will be for just one color. this way you can stripe it up as you see fit if you want)

ch 37

1) sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across. (36 sc)

2) ch1, turn. sc in same st as turning and in each across. (36 sc)

3-26) repeat Row 2.

Fasten off yarn,
fold piece in half and sew into a tube shape, making sure to leave a space open for the thumb.

Cuff:
ch 11

1) sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across. (10 sc)

2) ch1, turn. in BACK LOOPS ONLY, sc in same st as turning and in each across. (10 sc)

3-24) repeat Row 2.

Fold piece in half and sew into a short tube shape. Sew to bottom of mitt.

This is my original pattern. Please do not sell this pattern. Do not copy to sell, or post to any other website or publication. Please link back to my blog to share. You may print out a copy for your use. You may sell the finished product, not in mass quantity.

Mari <3

Wednesday, October 15, 2008

Winter Green Hat

i recently went to Jo-Ann's (the only craft store within reasonable bus ride distance) and found some little yarn skeins on sale. They were like 1 and 3/4ths oz, which is sometimes the perfect amount to make a hat with :P so here we go!
(well.. i actually used a LITTLE bit more than one skein, so round it up to 2 oz approx WW yarn)
oh yeah and i used an aluminum size F hook (US)

ch 35

1) sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across.

2) ch1, turn. Working in Back Loops Only, sc in same st as turning and in each across. Do Not count the first ch1 of the Row as a stitch. (34 sc)

3-62) Repeat Row 2.

Sometimes people's heads are different sizes :P sooo take the flat piece at this point and see how well it fits wrapped around your head lengthwise. If it's too small, work a few more Rows in. Too big? Vice versa.


At the end of Row 62 (or preferred) Do Not Fasten Off.
Fold piece in half Wrong Side Facing Out. Join together with sl st evenly across, so that you have a longish tube with an opening on either end.
Fasten off yarn, leaving a long tail that will be used to sew up the top.
Weave tail in and out between open spaces (between stitches) evenly, making sure that you go around the piece and not through both thicknesses at once. This will give you a kind of drawstring thingie, which you will pull REALLY TIGHTLY to close.
You may need to add a few extra stitches to make sure that it's sewed up properly.
Weave in the ends.

Optional:
You may want a neat edge to your hat by the brim, which can be accomplished with a nice even round of sc's all around. Or you could just wing it and try whatever stitch pattern you want for a personalized flare. I just left mine "natural" (lol) cuz i liked it that way.


This is my original pattern. While i'm very certain there are a billion others out there like it, i came up with this on my own. You may print out a copy for your use, personal, charitable, or for profit. Do Not Mass Produce For Profit.

<3 Mari

The Blue Hat (with brim)

There are two versions to this hat, and they're not really "variations" it's just that the first one was kinda too big for my head (perfect for a big man's head or a gal blessed with some cranium) so i shortened it for the second version.
i used approximately 5 oz WW chunky yarn for the first one and probly about 3 or 4 for the second. with an aluminum size J hook (US)

Here's the first version, with notes to the second at the end:

ch2

1) 8 hdc in 2nd ch from hook. Join with sl st to top of first hdc. (8hdc)

2) ch1, 2hdc in same st as joining and in each around. Join with sl st to top of first hdc. (16hdc)

3) ch1, hdc in same st as joining, 2hdc in next. Work (hdc in next hdc, 2hdc in next) around. Join with sl st to top of first hdc. (24hdc)



4) ch1, hdc in same st as joining and in next, 2hdc in next. Work (hdc in each of next 2 hdc's, 2hdc in next) around. Join with sl st to top of first hdc. (32hdc)

5) ch1, hdc in same st as joining and in each of next 2, 2hdc in next. Work (hdc in each of next 3 hdc's, 2hdc in next) around. Join with sl st to top of first hdc. (40hdc)

6) ch1, hdc in same st as joining and in each of

next 3 hdc's, 2hdc in next. Work (hdc in each of


next 4 hdc's, 2hdc in next) around. Join with sl st to top of first hdc. (48hdc)

7) ch1, hdc in same st as joining and in each of next 4 hdc's, 2hdc in next. Work (hdc in each of next 5 hdc's, 2hdc in next) around. Join with sl st to top of first hdc. (56hdc)

8) ch1, hdc in same st as joining and in each of next 5 hdc's, 2hdc in next. Work (hdc in each of next 6 hdc's, 2hdc in next) around. Join with sl st

to top of first hdc. (64hdc)

9) ch1, hdc in same st as joining and in each of next 6 hdc's, 2hdc in next. Work (hdc in each of next 7 hdc's, 2hdc in next) around. Join with sl st to top of first hdc. (72hdc)

10) ch1, hdc in same st as joining and in each of next 7 hdc's, 2hdc in next. Work (hdc in each of next 8 hdc's, 2hdc in next) around. Join with sl st to top of first hdc. (80hdc)

11) ch1, hdc in same st as joining and in each around. Join with sl st to top of first hdc. (80hdc)



12-22) Repeat Round 11.

23) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each around. Join with sl st to top of first sc.

Fasten off yarn. Weave in ends.

Brim: (make 2)
ch2.

1)5hdc in 2nd ch from hook. (5hdc)

2) ch1, turn. hdc in same st as turning, 2hdc in next.
(hdc in next hdc, 2hdc in next) once.
hdc in last hdc. (7hdc)

3) ch1, turn. hdc in same st as turning, 2hdc in next.
(hdc in next hdc, 2hdc in next) twice.
hdc in last hdc. (10hdc)

4) ch1, turn. hdc in same st as turning, 2hdc in next.
(hdc in next hdc, 2hdc in next) 4 times. (15hdc)

5) ch1, turn. hdc in same st as turning, 2hdc in next.
(hdc in next hdc, 2hdc in next) 6 times.
hdc in last hdc. (22hdc)

6) ch1, turn. hdc in same st as turning and in each across. (22hdc)

7) Repeat Row 6.

8) ch1, turn. hdc in same st as turning, 2hdc in next.
(hdc in next hdc, 2hdc in next) 10 times. (33hdc)

9) ch1, turn. sc in same st as turning and in each across. (33sc)

10) ch1, turn. sc in same st as turning and in next sc, 2sc in next sc.
(sc in each of next 2 sc's, 2sc in next) across. (44sc)

Fasten off yarn.

Once you have your 2 pieces made, put them together RS facing out, join yarn with sl st to the right of the curved end. sl st that end together so you have a little pocket with the flat side open.
Cut cardboard or plastic canvas to fit nicely into pocket (i used a cereal box) and sl st shut, leaving a long tail to sew.

Sew Brim to hat by inserting the flat side under last Rounds of hat. Sew evenly to last hdc Round. Weave in ends.

SECOND VERSION:

follow original instructions to Round 19.

20) with an aluminum size F hook (US),
ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 7 sts.
sc2tog over next 2 sts.
Work (sc in each of next 8 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts) around.
Join with sl st to top of first sc. (72 sts)

Fasten off yarn. Weave in ends.

Work Brim same as original. Sew Brim to Round 18 on hat from the outside.
Fasten off yarn, weave in ends.

This is my original pattern. Please do not sell, or copy to sell, this pattern. Do not copy and post to any other website or publication. You may print out a copy for your use. Please link back to my blog to share the pattern. You may sell the finished product, not in mass quantity.

Mari <3

Tuesday, September 30, 2008

Amigurumi Flower and Flower Pot



hi :) i've been working on this little flower thing for a few weeks
it came into my brain one night when i was supposed to be sleeping
i hurried up and started, and i got the whole thing done in about 2 days minus the flower petals... the flower petals took several tries, after which i just opted for the most simple of methods :)
the whole thing is worked top down in one piece, and then the leaves are sewn on, then the petals are worked right onto the top of the flower.
hope you enjoy!

Materials:
aluminum size G hook (US)
small amounts (less than 3 oz each color) of WW yarn in yellow, green, black(or brown), flower petal color of choice, and flowerpot color of choice
fiberfill for stuffing
(optional) fuzzy pipecleaners for "bendability" and structure of flower stem

Pattern:
starting with YELLOW (work in rounds. ch1 at beginning never counts as an sc)

ch2
1) 10sc in 2nd ch from hook. join with sl st to top of1st sc (10sc)

2) ch1, 2sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of 1st sc (20sc)

3) ch1, sc in same st as joining. 2sc in next sc. (sc in next sc, 2 sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (30sc)

4) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in next. 2sc in next. (sc in each of next 2 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (40sc)

5-10) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (40sc)

11) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in next. sc2tog over next 2 sc's, (sc in each of next 2 sc, sc2tog over next 2 sc's) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (30sc)

12) ch1, sc in same st as joining. sc2tog over next 2 sc's, (sc in next, sc2tog over next 2 sts) aroundjoin with sl st to top of first sc. (20sc)

13) ch1, (make sc2tog over next 2 sts) around. join with sl st to top of first st. FASTEN OFF YELLOW

*stuff as you go along, since it will be really hard to stuff the whole flower at one time on account of the narrow stem... if you have decided to do the bendy stem, put your piple cleaners in the head of the flower and hold them in place as you work while stuffing*

join GREEN with sl st to any st of previous round

14) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (10sc)

15-45) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of first sc
AT END OF ROUND 15, FASTEN OFF GREEN.

join BLACK (or brown) with sl st to any st on previous round

46) ch1, 2sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (20sc)

47) ch1, sc in same st as joining, 2sc in next sc. (sc in next sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (30sc)

48) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in next sc, 2sc in next. (sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (40sc)

49) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 2 sc. 2sc in next. (sc in each of next 3 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (50sc)

50) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (50sc)

51-52) repeat round 50. FASTEN OFF BLACK

join FLOWER POT COLOR to any st on previous round, work in BACK LOOPS ONLY thoughout round 53

53) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (50sc)

54) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

55) ch1, USE BACK LOOPS ONLY throughout this round, sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

56-62) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

63) DECREASE ROUND- ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 2 sc. sc2tog over next 2 sc's (sc in each of next 3 sc, sc2tog over next 2 sc's) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (40sts)

64) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (40sc)

65-66) repeat round 64

67) DECREASE ROUND- ch1, sc in same st as joining and in next, sc2tog over next 2 sc's, (sc in each of next 2 sc, sc2tog over next 2 sc's) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (30 sts)

68-70) repeat round 64. (30sc)

71) DECREASE ROUND- (work in BACK LOOPS ONLY throughout this round) ch1, sc in same st as joining, sc2tog over next 2 sc's, (sc in next sc, sc2tog over next 2 sc's) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (20sts)

72) DECREASE ROUND- ch1, sc2tog over same st as joining and next sc, (sc2tog over next 2 sts) around. join with sl st to top of fist st. (10sts)

73) DECREASE ROUND- repeat as for round 72. (5sts)

FASTEN OFF YARN, leaving a long tail for sewing hole shut. weave taol in and out between sts of last round and pull tight for drawstring effect closure. it should close neatly and evenly with no bumps.

FLOWER POT BRIM:

with FLOWER POT COLOR, join with sl st to any free loop on Round 55 (remember back loops only? this is why)

1) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

2-5) repeat round 1. fasten off yarn at end of Round 5.
weave in ends.

LEAVES: (make 4, as you will pair them up, stitch them together and lightly stuff them before sewing them onto the stem of the flower)

with GREEN,
ch2

1) sc in 2nd ch from hook (1 sc)

2) ch1, turn (sc never counts as an sc). 2sc in sc of row 1. (2 sc)

3) ch1, turn. 2 sc in same st as ch1, and in next. (4 sc)

4) ch1, turn. 2sc in same st as ch1. sc in each of next 2 sc's, 2sc in last sc. (6 sc)

5) ch1, turn. 2sc in same st as ch1 and in each of next 4 sc's, 2sc in last sc. (8sc)

6) ch1, turn. sc in same st as ch1, and in each across. (8 sc)

7-10) repeat Round 6. (8 sc)

11) ch1, turn. sc2tog over first 2 sts, sc in each of next 4 sc's, sc2tog over last 2 sts. (6 sts)

12) ch1, turn. sc2tog over first 2 sts, sc in each of nexr 2 sc's, sc2tog over last 2 sts. (4 sts)

13) ch1, turn. sc2tog over first 2 sts, sc2tog over last 2 sts. (2 sts)

14) ch1, turn. sc2tog over those 2 sts. (1 st)

ch1, turn. sc evenly around the whole piece. Fasten off.

once you have all your pieces, pair them up RIGHT SIDES FACING OUT
join together as evenly as possible, using sl st. stuff lightly with fiberfill before closing up.
sew one leaf to the right on the flower stem and the other to the left.

FLOWER PETALS: (this SOUNDS complicated maybe, but it is VERY easy. you will be joining yarn to "head" of the flower and then working in rounds (2)

join FLOWER PETAL COLOR to any st on Round 9 of flower (top yellow part) with a sl st.
you should insert the hook with the flower face facing you, not through the tops of the sts but from bottom to top longways

chain 7
sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in each of next 2 sts, dc in each of next 3 sts. join with sl st to 3rd st over on flower head. make sure u have the sts on the same Round. (flower petal made- ya, it will curl in, dont worry about that)

continue in this way around the Round. now the sts by the end will come up uneven but that's alright just work the petals in neatly.

for the second round of petals, after u have joined the first round to itself, sl st into Round 8 of the flower head, the top yellow stuff.
work another round of petals in the same way

fasten off yarn, weave in ends

now you can either paint or embroider your faces on the flower and flower pot. or you can use safety eyeballs, felt or what have you. OR you can leave it be faceless :P whatever you prefer

this is my own original pattern. please DO NOT SELL this pattern. do not copy to any other website or publication. you MAY print out a copy for your own personal use. please link to my blog to share. you may sell the finished product, although not in mass quantity.

<3 Mari

Wednesday, September 10, 2008

Slippers of Mari-ness (row 30 revised due to error)

(well here's one slipper anyway)
i made these slippers after studying up on how to go about making things for the feetses :D i saw a lot of cool patterns online for socks and slippers, and some of them actually work out really comfortably. but for some strange mari reason i wanted to get my own thing done. i appreciate all the help i got from looking things up :)
see my initial problem (i thought at first) was the heel of the footwear. how to get it to slip on without having to do all that crazy heel shaping mumbo jumbo that sock makers love so much. im a simple girl and i like things to work without me having to really think about them lol. so i took what i knew about socks and feet and slippers and crochet and applied all of it. so i came up with this pattern. im sure that there are a bunch out there that are similar but i figured i'd put out my version of simplicity, for the sake of diversity and stuff.
anyways here it goes:
i used an aluminum size J hook (US) and one 3.5 oz skein of Bernat Softee Chunky yarn
my shoe size is a womens 6 (US), i made these to fit over socks so they might be able to stretch to about a size 8 or 9 depending on the type of yarn you use and the tension in your stitches. MAKE SURE IT'S CHUNKY YARN, if not, use two strands of WW together

MAKE TWO:

ch6
1) sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across to last ch.
Work 3 sc in last ch.
turn piece and work in free loops of beginning chain like so:
sc in each st across to last ch
work 2 sc in last ch, join with sl st to top of first sc.

2) ch1, 2 sc in same st as joining
sc in each of next 3 sc's
2 sc in each of next 3 sc's
sc in each of next 3 sc's
2 sc in each of last 2 sc's. join with sl st to top of first sc.

3) ch1, 2 sc in same st as joining
2 sc in next sc
sc in each of next 3 sc's
2 sc in each of next 6 sc's
sc in each of next 3 sc's
2 sc in each of next 4 sc's. join with sl st to top of first sc.

4-18) work in back loops only
ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each around
join with sl st to top of first sc.

at end of Round 18, do not fasten off. you will be working in Rows next.

19) do not turn.
sl st into the next 6 sts.
now ch1, turn.
working over the sl sts, and in front loops only:
sc in each sc.
do not join.

20) ch1, turn
working in back loops only:
sc in each sc across

21) ch1, turn
working in front loops only:
sc in each sc across

22-28) repeat Rows 20 and 21 alternately

29) ch1, turn
working in front loops only:
sc in each of first 10 sc's
make (sc2tog over next 2 stitches) until there are only 10 sc's left in the Row
sc in each of last 10 sc's

30) ch1, turn
working in back loops only:
sc in each of first 4 sts
make (sc2tog over next two stitches) consecutively until there are only 5 sts left on that Row
sc in each of last 5 sts

Fasten off yarn leaving a long enough tail to sew the heel up.

turn heel inside out and whipstitch closed.
if you whipstitch it right side un, it leaves a weird bump all along the sewed up part so i do it when its inside out.
turn right side in.

Attach yarn with sl st to top opening of slipper
Make 2 Rounds of sc's evenly around top of slipper. Fasten off yarn, weave in ends.

This pattern is not to be sold. Please do not copy to any other website or publication. It is a free pattern for your personal use, and you may print out a copy for that use. Please link back to my blog to share.

<3 Mari

Thursday, September 4, 2008

Go Green!


here is a cool mesh bag i made up. i posted the pattern on Crochetville already so i won't go through all the agony of typing it out again lol
i used 2 strands of yarn held together throughout the pattern, and an aluminum size I hook (US)
it works up in pretty much one piece, except for the second handle. this picture makes the colors look really washed out, it's acrually pretty vibrant green and multicolored.
Here is a link to the post with the pattern :)
Go Green! Bag

Hope you enjoy!
Oh wait, here is a closeup pic, it has the colors showing better even though its a tiny bit blurred