A Post For November :P

well i haven't really quit crocheting, i just kinda slowed down. since life and work and having to get in some sleep have taken up a lot of my free time :)
i'm still working on some things... like different fingerless gloves, paulie's hat from the one movie that we saw, a scrap afghan, and i gave up on that cotton thing for now. i ran out of materials and i need to figure out how to make more with less... so i'm waiting on the blue moon for some extra thinking time.
i did make some coasters, they are rainbow sherbert colored and terrible. tiny squares of ick. and luckily no picture available :) but i will show u what i made from other people's patterns! lol
i made two doilies both from CrochetPatty.com ... the antlia doily and the aquarius doily. both excellent and quick to work up if you don't mind having to look at the picture for deeper instruction. they both finished up in about 2 to 3 days :)

here is antlia: i took the pic with my phone so it doesn't show very super good... the color is pure white but somehow the light made it turn blue


the second one is aquarius, which was harder than antlia because of pieces missing from the pattern, but the pic on the website i got it from was pretty good so i could just follow along with that at times


and that's all ive been able to do! oh yeah, i started on another doily from Celt's Vintage Crochet website which is in fact this one in particular: http://www.angelfire.com/folk/celtwich/Doily7797.html
i think it's really cute, i had a little trouble understanding the tr tr part after the ch 6 (round 3) but then i just made a "tr that was long enough to equal the length of the ch 6 minus the top chain" lol i dunno if that makes sense but it did for me.
it's turning out pretty well so far

<3 Mari

Chunky Yarn Hat

Ok so here goes another hat... i went to wally world with paulie for some air compressor purchasement... and they had a lot of superwarm hats there. and rather than buy an eskimo hat (they were cute but not ummm.. fashionable) i decided to make a hat of equal warmth. without the fur. lol.
this is basically the same pattern as the Winter Green Hat from a previous post, worked in chunky yarn (Bernat Softee Chunky- less than one skein) using an aluminum size J hook (US). it was fun and quick to make, the two pics make me happy even though the second one is without the extra rounds on the bottom (i put those in later cuz i tend to overstretch my hats for no reason in particular and this helps keep it the right shape and size)
Anyways here goes:

ch 31

1) sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across. (30 sc)

2) ch1, turn. Working in Back Loops Only, sc in same st as turning and in each across. (30 sc)

3-54) repeat Row 2.

DO NOT FASTEN OFF

working across ends of Rows, make sc2tog over every 2 spaces. (there should be a space for each stitch, so you will end up with 27 stitches across)

work another row in the same way, leaving you with 13 sc2tog stitches and one sc.
Fasten off yarn, leaving a long enough tail to sew up the top. (top is part you've been decreasing on.)
sl st the side of the hat closed, make sure you weave in ends or work over them so they don't show. cuz it's a worse pain to weave them in later after the things all sewn up

turn hat inside out (this will be right side in) and attach yarn with sl st to back bottom of hat (try to get it as close to the seam as possible)

make about 2 to 4 rounds of sc along the brim, joining to top of first sc with sl st at end of each round. Fasten off yarn, weave in ends.

<3 Mari

Commie Mitts (fingerless gloves)

Alright so maybe they're not. But they can have their raving illogical delusions sometimes. i made these in my favorite colors, which i have been teased for in the past. They work up really fast and are all sc, the thing that some people might have a *tiny* problem with is the sizing. i have thin hands and fingers, and sometimes the only store bought gloves/mittens that will fit me are a kids size (the stretchy knit kind) So if while working on this pattern you find that they look too small for yourself, it will be easy to just add a few more stitches to the foundation, and a few more rows to the body :) Here goes the pattern:


Materials:
fingering weight yarn (about 1 oz per mitt)
aluminum size E hook (US)

(the mitts in the pic are multicolored but the directions will be for just one color. this way you can stripe it up as you see fit if you want)

ch 37

1) sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across. (36 sc)

2) ch1, turn. sc in same st as turning and in each across. (36 sc)

3-26) repeat Row 2.

Fasten off yarn,
fold piece in half and sew into a tube shape, making sure to leave a space open for the thumb.

Cuff:
ch 11

1) sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across. (10 sc)

2) ch1, turn. in BACK LOOPS ONLY, sc in same st as turning and in each across. (10 sc)

3-24) repeat Row 2.

Fold piece in half and sew into a short tube shape. Sew to bottom of mitt.

This is my original pattern. Please do not sell this pattern. Do not copy to sell, or post to any other website or publication. Please link back to my blog to share. You may print out a copy for your use. You may sell the finished product, not in mass quantity.

Mari <3

Winter Green Hat

i recently went to Jo-Ann's (the only craft store within reasonable bus ride distance) and found some little yarn skeins on sale. They were like 1 and 3/4ths oz, which is sometimes the perfect amount to make a hat with :P so here we go!
(well.. i actually used a LITTLE bit more than one skein, so round it up to 2 oz approx WW yarn)
oh yeah and i used an aluminum size F hook (US)

ch 35

1) sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across.

2) ch1, turn. Working in Back Loops Only, sc in same st as turning and in each across. Do Not count the first ch1 of the Row as a stitch. (34 sc)

3-62) Repeat Row 2.

Sometimes people's heads are different sizes :P sooo take the flat piece at this point and see how well it fits wrapped around your head lengthwise. If it's too small, work a few more Rows in. Too big? Vice versa.


At the end of Row 62 (or preferred) Do Not Fasten Off.
Fold piece in half Wrong Side Facing Out. Join together with sl st evenly across, so that you have a longish tube with an opening on either end.
Fasten off yarn, leaving a long tail that will be used to sew up the top.
Weave tail in and out between open spaces (between stitches) evenly, making sure that you go around the piece and not through both thicknesses at once. This will give you a kind of drawstring thingie, which you will pull REALLY TIGHTLY to close.
You may need to add a few extra stitches to make sure that it's sewed up properly.
Weave in the ends.

Optional:
You may want a neat edge to your hat by the brim, which can be accomplished with a nice even round of sc's all around. Or you could just wing it and try whatever stitch pattern you want for a personalized flare. I just left mine "natural" (lol) cuz i liked it that way.


This is my original pattern. While i'm very certain there are a billion others out there like it, i came up with this on my own. You may print out a copy for your use, personal, charitable, or for profit. Do Not Mass Produce For Profit.

<3 Mari

The Blue Hat (with brim)

There are two versions to this hat, and they're not really "variations" it's just that the first one was kinda too big for my head (perfect for a big man's head or a gal blessed with some cranium) so i shortened it for the second version.
i used approximately 5 oz WW chunky yarn for the first one and probly about 3 or 4 for the second. with an aluminum size J hook (US)

Here's the first version, with notes to the second at the end:

ch2

1) 8 hdc in 2nd ch from hook. Join with sl st to top of first hdc. (8hdc)

2) ch1, 2hdc in same st as joining and in each around. Join with sl st to top of first hdc. (16hdc)

3) ch1, hdc in same st as joining, 2hdc in next. Work (hdc in next hdc, 2hdc in next) around. Join with sl st to top of first hdc. (24hdc)



4) ch1, hdc in same st as joining and in next, 2hdc in next. Work (hdc in each of next 2 hdc's, 2hdc in next) around. Join with sl st to top of first hdc. (32hdc)

5) ch1, hdc in same st as joining and in each of next 2, 2hdc in next. Work (hdc in each of next 3 hdc's, 2hdc in next) around. Join with sl st to top of first hdc. (40hdc)

6) ch1, hdc in same st as joining and in each of

next 3 hdc's, 2hdc in next. Work (hdc in each of


next 4 hdc's, 2hdc in next) around. Join with sl st to top of first hdc. (48hdc)

7) ch1, hdc in same st as joining and in each of next 4 hdc's, 2hdc in next. Work (hdc in each of next 5 hdc's, 2hdc in next) around. Join with sl st to top of first hdc. (56hdc)

8) ch1, hdc in same st as joining and in each of next 5 hdc's, 2hdc in next. Work (hdc in each of next 6 hdc's, 2hdc in next) around. Join with sl st

to top of first hdc. (64hdc)

9) ch1, hdc in same st as joining and in each of next 6 hdc's, 2hdc in next. Work (hdc in each of next 7 hdc's, 2hdc in next) around. Join with sl st to top of first hdc. (72hdc)

10) ch1, hdc in same st as joining and in each of next 7 hdc's, 2hdc in next. Work (hdc in each of next 8 hdc's, 2hdc in next) around. Join with sl st to top of first hdc. (80hdc)

11) ch1, hdc in same st as joining and in each around. Join with sl st to top of first hdc. (80hdc)



12-22) Repeat Round 11.

23) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each around. Join with sl st to top of first sc.

Fasten off yarn. Weave in ends.

Brim: (make 2)
ch2.

1)5hdc in 2nd ch from hook. (5hdc)

2) ch1, turn. hdc in same st as turning, 2hdc in next.
(hdc in next hdc, 2hdc in next) once.
hdc in last hdc. (7hdc)

3) ch1, turn. hdc in same st as turning, 2hdc in next.
(hdc in next hdc, 2hdc in next) twice.
hdc in last hdc. (10hdc)

4) ch1, turn. hdc in same st as turning, 2hdc in next.
(hdc in next hdc, 2hdc in next) 4 times. (15hdc)

5) ch1, turn. hdc in same st as turning, 2hdc in next.
(hdc in next hdc, 2hdc in next) 6 times.
hdc in last hdc. (22hdc)

6) ch1, turn. hdc in same st as turning and in each across. (22hdc)

7) Repeat Row 6.

8) ch1, turn. hdc in same st as turning, 2hdc in next.
(hdc in next hdc, 2hdc in next) 10 times. (33hdc)

9) ch1, turn. sc in same st as turning and in each across. (33sc)

10) ch1, turn. sc in same st as turning and in next sc, 2sc in next sc.
(sc in each of next 2 sc's, 2sc in next) across. (44sc)

Fasten off yarn.

Once you have your 2 pieces made, put them together RS facing out, join yarn with sl st to the right of the curved end. sl st that end together so you have a little pocket with the flat side open.
Cut cardboard or plastic canvas to fit nicely into pocket (i used a cereal box) and sl st shut, leaving a long tail to sew.

Sew Brim to hat by inserting the flat side under last Rounds of hat. Sew evenly to last hdc Round. Weave in ends.

SECOND VERSION:

follow original instructions to Round 19.

20) with an aluminum size F hook (US),
ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 7 sts.
sc2tog over next 2 sts.
Work (sc in each of next 8 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts) around.
Join with sl st to top of first sc. (72 sts)

Fasten off yarn. Weave in ends.

Work Brim same as original. Sew Brim to Round 18 on hat from the outside.
Fasten off yarn, weave in ends.

This is my original pattern. Please do not sell, or copy to sell, this pattern. Do not copy and post to any other website or publication. You may print out a copy for your use. Please link back to my blog to share the pattern. You may sell the finished product, not in mass quantity.

Mari <3

Paulie-Star Square

i made this up the day before yesterday on a laundry-mat trip. i usually bring my current project along to keep my brain busy while paulie is playing his DS. sometimes we look over at what the other is doing :)
anyways, i had these two colors in my bag that day and decided to just wing it. this stuff happened, and then paulie named it after himself. when i asked him if i should alternate the colors, he said Nope, cuz he likes the "star" in the middle.
i used WW yarn and an aluminum size I hook (US)

Pattern:

with first color:
ch6, join with sl st to form ring

1) ch3 to count as first dc. Make 15 dc in ring, join with sl st to top of beginning ch3. (16 dc)

2) ch1 (this does not count as a stitch). sc in same st as joining. *(3dc in next dc) twice. sc in each of next 2 dc*, rep from * to * around. Last stitch on round will be an sc. Join with sl st to top of first sc. Fasten off yarn
(you will have four "hills" and four "valleys")

join second color with sl st to 3rd dc of any "hill"

3) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in next. *hdc in next, dc in next. Make (3tr, ch3) in next sc, 3tr in next. dc in next dc, hdc in next, sc in each of next 2 dc* rep from * to * around. Last st of round will be an hdc. Join with sl st to top of first sc.

4) ch3 to count as first dc, dc in next sc. *skip 2 sts, make (dc, ch2, dc) in next tr, skip 2 sts, make (3dc, ch5, 3dc) in next ch3 space. skip 2 sts, make (dc, ch2, dc) in next tr, skip 2 sts, dc in each of next 2 sc's* rep from * to * around. Last sts will be (dc, ch2, dc) in last tr, skip remaining 2 sts. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch3.

fasten off yarn, weave in ends.

this is my original pattern. please DO NOT SELL the pattern. do not copy or post to any other website or publication. you may print out a copy for your personal use only. please link back to my blog to share.

<3 Mari

Amigurumi Flower and Flower Pot

hi :) i've been working on this little flower thing for a few weeks
it came into my brain one night when i was supposed to be sleeping
i hurried up and started, and i got the whole thing done in about 2 days minus the flower petals... the flower petals took several tries, after which i just opted for the most simple of methods :)
the whole thing is worked top down in one piece, and then the leaves are sewn on, then the petals are worked right onto the top of the flower.
hope you enjoy!

Materials:
aluminum size G hook (US)
small amounts (less than 3 oz each color) of WW yarn in yellow, green, black(or brown), flower petal color of choice, and flowerpot color of choice
fiberfill for stuffing
(optional) fuzzy pipecleaners for "bendability" and structure of flower stem

Pattern:
starting with YELLOW (work in rounds. ch1 at beginning never counts as an sc)

ch2
1) 10sc in 2nd ch from hook. join with sl st to top of1st sc (10sc)

2) ch1, 2sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of 1st sc (20sc)

3) ch1, sc in same st as joining. 2sc in next sc. (sc in next sc, 2 sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (30sc)

4) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in next. 2sc in next. (sc in each of next 2 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (40sc)

5-10) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (40sc)

11) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in next. sc2tog over next 2 sc's, (sc in each of next 2 sc, sc2tog over next 2 sc's) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (30sc)

12) ch1, sc in same st as joining. sc2tog over next 2 sc's, (sc in next, sc2tog over next 2 sts) aroundjoin with sl st to top of first sc. (20sc)

13) ch1, (make sc2tog over next 2 sts) around. join with sl st to top of first st. FASTEN OFF YELLOW

*stuff as you go along, since it will be really hard to stuff the whole flower at one time on account of the narrow stem... if you have decided to do the bendy stem, put your piple cleaners in the head of the flower and hold them in place as you work while stuffing*

join GREEN with sl st to any st of previous round

14) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (10sc)

15-45) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of first sc
AT END OF ROUND 15, FASTEN OFF GREEN.

join BLACK (or brown) with sl st to any st on previous round

46) ch1, 2sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (20sc)

47) ch1, sc in same st as joining, 2sc in next sc. (sc in next sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (30sc)

48) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in next sc, 2sc in next. (sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (40sc)

49) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 2 sc. 2sc in next. (sc in each of next 3 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (50sc)

50) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (50sc)

51-52) repeat round 50. FASTEN OFF BLACK

join FLOWER POT COLOR to any st on previous round, work in BACK LOOPS ONLY thoughout round 53

53) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (50sc)

54) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

55) ch1, USE BACK LOOPS ONLY throughout this round, sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

56-62) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

63) DECREASE ROUND- ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 2 sc. sc2tog over next 2 sc's (sc in each of next 3 sc, sc2tog over next 2 sc's) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (40sts)

64) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (40sc)

65-66) repeat round 64

67) DECREASE ROUND- ch1, sc in same st as joining and in next, sc2tog over next 2 sc's, (sc in each of next 2 sc, sc2tog over next 2 sc's) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (30 sts)

68-70) repeat round 64. (30sc)

71) DECREASE ROUND- (work in BACK LOOPS ONLY throughout this round) ch1, sc in same st as joining, sc2tog over next 2 sc's, (sc in next sc, sc2tog over next 2 sc's) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (20sts)

72) DECREASE ROUND- ch1, sc2tog over same st as joining and next sc, (sc2tog over next 2 sts) around. join with sl st to top of fist st. (10sts)

73) DECREASE ROUND- repeat as for round 72. (5sts)

FASTEN OFF YARN, leaving a long tail for sewing hole shut. weave taol in and out between sts of last round and pull tight for drawstring effect closure. it should close neatly and evenly with no bumps.

FLOWER POT BRIM:

with FLOWER POT COLOR, join with sl st to any free loop on Round 55 (remember back loops only? this is why)

1) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

2-5) repeat round 1. fasten off yarn at end of Round 5.
weave in ends.

LEAVES: (make 4, as you will pair them up, stitch them together and lightly stuff them before sewing them onto the stem of the flower)

with GREEN,
ch2

1) sc in 2nd ch from hook (1 sc)

2) ch1, turn (sc never counts as an sc). 2sc in sc of row 1. (2 sc)

3) ch1, turn. 2 sc in same st as ch1, and in next. (4 sc)

4) ch1, turn. 2sc in same st as ch1. sc in each of next 2 sc's, 2sc in last sc. (6 sc)

5) ch1, turn. 2sc in same st as ch1 and in each of next 4 sc's, 2sc in last sc. (8sc)

6) ch1, turn. sc in same st as ch1, and in each across. (8 sc)

7-10) repeat Round 6. (8 sc)

11) ch1, turn. sc2tog over first 2 sts, sc in each of next 4 sc's, sc2tog over last 2 sts. (6 sts)

12) ch1, turn. sc2tog over first 2 sts, sc in each of nexr 2 sc's, sc2tog over last 2 sts. (4 sts)

13) ch1, turn. sc2tog over first 2 sts, sc2tog over last 2 sts. (2 sts)

14) ch1, turn. sc2tog over those 2 sts. (1 st)

ch1, turn. sc evenly around the whole piece. Fasten off.

once you have all your pieces, pair them up RIGHT SIDES FACING OUT
join together as evenly as possible, using sl st. stuff lightly with fiberfill before closing up.
sew one leaf to the right on the flower stem and the other to the left.

FLOWER PETALS: (this SOUNDS complicated maybe, but it is VERY easy. you will be joining yarn to "head" of the flower and then working in rounds (2)

join FLOWER PETAL COLOR to any st on Round 9 of flower (top yellow part) with a sl st.
you should insert the hook with the flower face facing you, not through the tops of the sts but from bottom to top longways

chain 7
sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in each of next 2 sts, dc in each of next 3 sts. join with sl st to 3rd st over on flower head. make sure u have the sts on the same Round. (flower petal made- ya, it will curl in, dont worry about that)

continue in this way around the Round. now the sts by the end will come up uneven but that's alright just work the petals in neatly.

for the second round of petals, after u have joined the first round to itself, sl st into Round 8 of the flower head, the top yellow stuff.
work another round of petals in the same way

fasten off yarn, weave in ends

now you can either paint or embroider your faces on the flower and flower pot. or you can use safety eyeballs, felt or what have you. OR you can leave it be faceless :P whatever you prefer

this is my own original pattern. please DO NOT SELL this pattern. do not copy to any other website or publication. you MAY print out a copy for your own personal use. please link to my blog to share. you may sell the finished product, although not in mass quantity.

<3 Mari

Slippers of Mari-ness (row 30 revised due to error)

(well here's one slipper anyway)
i made these slippers after studying up on how to go about making things for the feetses :D i saw a lot of cool patterns online for socks and slippers, and some of them actually work out really comfortably. but for some strange mari reason i wanted to get my own thing done. i appreciate all the help i got from looking things up :)
see my initial problem (i thought at first) was the heel of the footwear. how to get it to slip on without having to do all that crazy heel shaping mumbo jumbo that sock makers love so much. im a simple girl and i like things to work without me having to really think about them lol. so i took what i knew about socks and feet and slippers and crochet and applied all of it. so i came up with this pattern. im sure that there are a bunch out there that are similar but i figured i'd put out my version of simplicity, for the sake of diversity and stuff.
anyways here it goes:
i used an aluminum size J hook (US) and one 3.5 oz skein of Bernat Softee Chunky yarn
my shoe size is a womens 6 (US), i made these to fit over socks so they might be able to stretch to about a size 8 or 9 depending on the type of yarn you use and the tension in your stitches. MAKE SURE IT'S CHUNKY YARN, if not, use two strands of WW together

MAKE TWO:

ch6
1) sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across to last ch.
Work 3 sc in last ch.
turn piece and work in free loops of beginning chain like so:
sc in each st across to last ch
work 2 sc in last ch, join with sl st to top of first sc.

2) ch1, 2 sc in same st as joining
sc in each of next 3 sc's
2 sc in each of next 3 sc's
sc in each of next 3 sc's
2 sc in each of last 2 sc's. join with sl st to top of first sc.

3) ch1, 2 sc in same st as joining
2 sc in next sc
sc in each of next 3 sc's
2 sc in each of next 6 sc's
sc in each of next 3 sc's
2 sc in each of next 4 sc's. join with sl st to top of first sc.

4-18) work in back loops only
ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each around
join with sl st to top of first sc.

at end of Round 18, do not fasten off. you will be working in Rows next.

19) do not turn.
sl st into the next 6 sts.
now ch1, turn.
working over the sl sts, and in front loops only:
sc in each sc.
do not join.

20) ch1, turn
working in back loops only:
sc in each sc across

21) ch1, turn
working in front loops only:
sc in each sc across

22-28) repeat Rows 20 and 21 alternately

29) ch1, turn
working in front loops only:
sc in each of first 10 sc's
make (sc2tog over next 2 stitches) until there are only 10 sc's left in the Row
sc in each of last 10 sc's

30) ch1, turn
working in back loops only:
sc in each of first 4 sts
make (sc2tog over next two stitches) consecutively until there are only 5 sts left on that Row
sc in each of last 5 sts

Fasten off yarn leaving a long enough tail to sew the heel up.

turn heel inside out and whipstitch closed.
if you whipstitch it right side un, it leaves a weird bump all along the sewed up part so i do it when its inside out.
turn right side in.

Attach yarn with sl st to top opening of slipper
Make 2 Rounds of sc's evenly around top of slipper. Fasten off yarn, weave in ends.

This pattern is not to be sold. Please do not copy to any other website or publication. It is a free pattern for your personal use, and you may print out a copy for that use. Please link back to my blog to share.

<3 Mari

Go Green!

here is a cool mesh bag i made up. i posted the pattern on Crochetville already so i won't go through all the agony of typing it out again lol
i used 2 strands of yarn held together throughout the pattern, and an aluminum size I hook (US)
it works up in pretty much one piece, except for the second handle. this picture makes the colors look really washed out, it's acrually pretty vibrant green and multicolored.
Here is a link to the post with the pattern :)
Go Green! Bag

Hope you enjoy!
Oh wait, here is a closeup pic, it has the colors showing better even though its a tiny bit blurred

Mark Your Calendars!!

Crocheters, unite! lol
As you may or may not know, September the 12th is International Crochet Day (hooray!)
So make sure to spread the word, get out your hooks and yarny stuffs and demonstrate your love for crochet! You could crochet on your break at work, in study hall at school, while waiting for the bus, while riding the bus, in the carpool, on the way to/from the grocery store, at a sporting event, while waiting for your oil to get changed or your breaks to get fixed, in the park (like me!) or anywhere! Just be sure to remain seated because we don't want anyone walking into dangerous stuff (like oncoming traffic!)
Take the time to teach any and all who are willing to crochet!
This will be only the second year for International Crochet Day, so it's probably not printed on anyone's calendar yet. But one day!!!
lol. Remember the day, and have a blast :)

<3 Mari

Preemie Baby Dress

i made this from a pattern posted by a fellow Crochetville member. Here is the URL to the pattern (copy and paste to your browser if you can't click it) :

http://www.crochetville.org/forum/showthread.php?t=85318

it was very easy and worked up in less than two hours, using very little yarn. This is perfect to make for donations to hospitals, or for doll dresses. i think mine came out a bit bigger than preemie size though. maybe newborn to three months, because the pattern calls for cotton and i used Caron Simply Soft, a worsted weight yarn.
Hope you enjoy the pattern as much as i did!

Slacker, but not really

Hiyas :)
i really have been working on a lot of crochet, i just haven't been posting on my blog.
WHY?!?!
because i have been working on inspiration, necessity, and off of graphs. the graphs are not my patterns. the necessity makes me whip a project out and never worry about the pattern. the inspiration makes me so focused on the look of the project that i forget to count stitches. woops!
but i have been crocheting a lot :D and i have pictures!
This giant "A" thing :) has actually been in the works the longest, and it's the first one i started last month. it's a blanket! woooo!! lol
There on the right is a most beauteous of scarves. i made it to match a hat that i did in anticipation for cold weather (even though yesterday it was friggin 90 degrees! NINETY!!!! but now it's cooling down) i'm especially proud of the fringe, because i never make those. not even for my mom's scarf did i attempt a fringe. i guess i must have been a combination of "very bored" and "very determined" so yay! i win by being me :P
Here to the left is the hat in my favorite stitches, shells and sc's. it worked up easy and fast but i didn't write down the pattern because.. i was on a roll! i guess lol. if i look at it some it will be easy to get the pattern. hmmmm...
anyways it's nice and warm while being super light. i thought while i was making it that it might be too thin and floppy, but when i put it on my head my head got so hot! i was like "good! bring on the cold then" but not really because i don't enjoy winter anymore :P
And down here to the right is a hat. it was fun to make, just a buncha sc's. i saw a letter M on the internet doing a Google search and there it was in all its perfection. so i said i HAVE to crochet that! and i put it on the side of my hat. and it fits :) actually when i first decided to put it on there, i had worked evenly for so long that all that fit on it was the top half of the letter. so of course i had to rip everything out and do it again. not the circle part, just the "evenly around" part. and i dunno why but my "circles" always come out looking like hexagons.. eh. oh yeah here's a tip that i found works well for me, about not getting the strands twisted together.
i lay the skeins next to each other, next to me. and when switching colors, the closest one to me gets crocheted as is, since it will be on top of the other strand and easily accessible without twisting, without "yarn over"ing lol yarn over yarn. whatever.
and the one farther from me gets crocheted in after i "yarn under" if that makes sense. pull the yarn under the other strand so there's a slight tension, and then make the sc. i've really gotta get a picture of that in action. hmmmm..
SO... after that hat i got kinda confident and i wanted to try a filet graph as a tapestry pattern. i got this graph from about.com that was some sort of dragony sea creature thing. and i liked it a lots :D so i decided to make it. i didn't do filet because i always screw those up, plus i like colors better than holes :P
in the end stages of this project i got really tired of counting and switching and all that.. so i quit for a few hours. this is the picture showing my near defeat. lol
This on the left is what i used to ease my boiling brain. a simple hat using clusters (its breathe-able! lol) which i felt compelled to make a brim for. because then it would look cooler. yes. i made the hat oversized for a slouchy look and my boyfriend called me a Rastafari Mari, or something like that. i thougth that was funny, and just kept crocheting. i made the brim from two pieces (one green one yellow, you can't see the yellow cuz its sewn underneath the green)
i cut pieces of cardboard (actually i think its less than cardboard cuz it wasnt like a "real" box) from a frozen pizza box and put them between the two brim pieces. and voila! a brim. i didn't plan on the brim making the hat tighter though, so i had to stretch the opening a little bit. i'll keep that in mind next time i wanna make a brimmed hat.
And then i finished the dragony thingie. woooooooooooo!!! it took like four days. not working 24/7 but u know, in free time and while being a video game spectator. i'm a pro at stitching and cheering at the same time :)

oh yeah, i also made a cell phone case in the same colors as my hat. with a butterfly tapestried in the same way as the M was on the hat. but i never took a picture because i never got a button on it. even so, it holds my phone very well.

i'll have patterns soon! i hope :)


<3 Mari

Simple Granite Stitch Purse

i made this purse while i was making all those other ones in my previous posts. somehow i forgot to get it in here.
it is a super easy purse using Granite Stitch pattern which is simply sc's and chains alternating. and it was all done in rows in one flat piece, then folded in half and sewn together. the strap is done in the same stitch and then sewed on from the inside (i used the seams as sort of stitch markers for placement)
it's made with WW yarn although it would most definitely be less stretchy in cotton or nylon or even thread (although that would give you a teeny tiny purse)
and an aluminum size F (US) hook
i would say folded up my purse body came to about 4 by 6 inches, so its a fairly small bag. definitely line this purse with cloth, because stuff will fall through the little holes in the pattern.
Anyways here is the pattern :)

Purse Body:
chain 31

1) sc in second chain from hook
(ch1, skip next chain, sc in next) across

2) ch1, turn
sc in first sc and in the ch1 space
(ch1, skip next sc, sc in next ch1 space) across

continue to work the rows in this way. when if you come up to the last sc of a row and there arent any more chain spaces, just put an sc in that last stitch

also it works the other way around. when you come to the start of a new row and the first st is an sc and the second is a chain, put an sc in both of them.

so anyways, continue in this way until you have 52 rows (or how ever many you desire)
at the end of your last row, fasten off the yarn. fold the piece in half evenly, and slip stitch the sides together. now you have a pouch (yay!)

Purse Straps:
making sure you have a nice long enough tail (for sewing) on the end of your starting chain,
chain 100 (or however many you desire for length)
and work back and forth in the same way you did for the purse body, for 4 rows
of course you can make the strap as wide or skinny as you like.
when you have finished the strap, fasten off the yarn leaving a long enough tail to sew the other side.

sew the straps so that they make a cross with the seams on the body of the bag, and then turn it inside out. now you have a little bag with straps (yay some more!)

now i opted to make a long chain and thread it through the top of my bag for a closure, but you might want to try a button, a snap, or a zipper, so i'll encourage you to have your own way with it :)

Mari

Rainbow Mini Paulie-face

well if i can do it.. so can YOU!
just go out and get some stuffing, that's all i had to do.. and a lil snowman looking pocket became a fluffy little body which i felt compelled to sew arms and legs onto!! voila! amigurumi!
so easy, so EASY! i can't believe i never did it before.
and i just made it up as i went. this guy is mini paulie-face,and he sits, stands, and with a little help from human hands.. can also do the double fisted raised arms cheer. yes. (i mean.. YES!!!)
so anyways for my guy i used an aluminum size G (US) hook, and regular WW yarn in a paulie-face rainbow color. the head and body are made in one piece, then the legs and arms are made and sewed on. you dont really have to be that precise when sewing those on, just make sure its secure and aim for one center of balance.. even if it turns out slightly to the left (or right)

here goes the pattern:

**work in rounds always, i join at the end of mine cuz my eyeballs get all googly if i don't. if you can and/or want to, dont join and just use stitch markers (or your god-given eagle eyes)

ch2

1) sc in 2nd ch from hook 6 times. join with sl st to top of first sc.

2) ch1, make 2 sc in each sc around. join with sl st to top of first sc. you will have 12 sts around.

3) ch1, sc in same st as joining. (2sc in next sc, sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. you will have 18 sts around.

4) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in next. (2sc in next sc, sc in each of next two) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. you will have 24 stts around.

5) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in next two. (2 sc in next sc, sc in each of next three) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. you will have 30 sts around.

6)ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

7-10) repeat round 6.

11) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in next two. (sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in each of next 3 sts) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. you will have 24 sts around.

12) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in next. (sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in each of next 2 sts) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. you will have 18 sts around.

13) ch1, sc in same st as joining. (sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. you will have 12 sts around.

14) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each st around. join with sl st to top of first sc. you will have 12 sts around.

15) ch1, 2sc in same st as joining. 2sc in each st around. join with sl st to top of first sc. you will have 24 sts around.

16) ch1, sc in same st as joining. (2sc in next sc, sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. you will have 36 sts around.

17) ch1, sc in same st as joining. sc in each sc around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

18-24) repeat round 17

25) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 3. (sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in each of next 4) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. you will have 30 sts around

26) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 2. (sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in each of next 3) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. you will have 24 sts around

27) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in next. (sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in each of next 2) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. you will have 18 sts around.

At THIS POINT YOU WILL WANT TO STUFF THE HEAD AND BODY IF YOU HAVENT ALREADY STARTED TO

28) ch1, sc in same st as joining. (sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. you will have 12 sts around.

29) ch1, sc2tog over first 2 sts. (sc2tog over next 2 sts) around. join with sl st to top of first sc2tog. you will have 6 sts around.

30) ch1, sc2tog over first 2 sts. work sc2tog around. you will have 3 sts around.

sl st the opening closed.

LEGS (make two):

ch2

1) sc in 2nd ch from hook 6 times. join with sl st to first sc.

2) ch1, 2sc in each sc around. join with sl st to top of first sc. you will have 12 sts around.

3) ch1, sc in same st as joining. (2sc in next sc, sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. you will have 18 sts around.

4) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

5-6) repeat round 4.

7) ch1, sc in same st as joining. (sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. you will have 12 sts around.

8) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

9-20) repeat round 8.
at end of round 20, do not fasten off. after u stuff the leg, sl st it closed so it looks like a wedge shape. leave a long enough tail for sewing.


ARMS (make two):

ch2

1) sc in 2nd ch from hook 6 times. join with sl st to top of first sc.

2) ch1, 2 sc in each st around. join with sl st to top of first sc. you will have 12 sts around.

3) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

4-5) repeat round 3.

6) ch1, work (sc2tog over next 2 sts) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. you will have 6 sts around.

STUFF HAND THINGIE NOW CUZ IT WILL ONLY GET HARDER LATER.

7) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

8-15) repeat round 7.

STUFF ARM. do not fasten off. sl st the arm closed like you did the legs, and leave a long enough tail for sewing.



now sew the legs to his bottom and the arms at about round 17 of the head/body part.
embroider your face or leave it blank if you like, you could also use buttons, in which case i wouldnt recommend you give it to a child.

this is my original pattern (though im sure there are countless other amigurumi patterns out there) so please do not print or copy to sell this pattern. you may print out a copy for yourself for your personal use. link back to my blog to share with friends.

<3 Mari

Deviator Mesh Tote

so i've been working on this round ripple blanket for like... a month? and its the longest time i've ever spent ignoring a project. i just cant seem to motivate myself for it.
in its place ive been making bags :D
this one i named Deviator cuz it caused me to deviate from my original RR plans and into the purse/tote world. its really easy, just uses DC's and chains and Sl St to join
i used an aluminum size N (US) hook and WW yarn since i never have anything else... i think this bag would be more durable in cotton or nylon. anyways i used Caron One Pound (not the whole thing! far from it) i'm hoping to squeeze out 2 more bags from whats left over

Instructions:
chain 4, sl st in 1st chain to make ring
you will work in joined rounds, no turning.

1) ch4 to count as first dc+ch1
(dc, ch1) 7 times in ring
join with sl st to 3rd ch of beginning chain 4

2) sl st into next ch1 space
ch4 to count as first dc+ch1. dc in same space, ch1
(dc, ch1) twice in each ch1 space
join with sl st to 3rd ch of beginning chain 4

3) sl st into next ch1 space
ch4 to count as first dc+ch1
*(dc, ch1) twice in next ch1 space, (dc, ch1) in next*
continue around in this way, join with sl st to 3rd ch of beginning chain 4

4) sl st into next ch1 space
ch4 to count as first dc+ch1. (dc, ch1) in next ch1 space
*(dc, ch1) twice in next ch1 space
(dc, ch1) in each of next 2 ch1 spaces*
continue around in this way, join with sl st to 3rd ch of beginning chain 4

5) sl st into next ch1 space
ch4 to count as first cd+ch1. (dc, ch1) in each of next 2 ch1 spaces
*(dc, ch1) twice in next ch1 space
(dc, ch1) in each of next 3 ch1 spaces*
continue around in this way, join with sl st to 3rd ch of beginning chain 4

6) sl st into next ch1 space
ch4 to count as first dc+ch1. (dc, ch1) in each of next 3 ch1 spaces
*(dc, ch1) twice in next ch1 space
(dc, ch1) in each of next 4 ch1 spaces*
continue around in this way, join with sl st to 3rd ch of beginning chain 4

7) sl st into next ch1 space
ch4 to count as first dc+ch1
(dc, ch1) in each ch1 space around
join with sl st to 3rd ch of beginning chain 4

8-20) repeat round 7

after round 20, do not fasten off yarn,


STRAP:
1) sl st into next ch1 space
ch4 to count as first dc+ch1
(dc, ch1) in each of next 3 ch1 spaces
dc in next ch1 space so u have 5 dc's and 4 ch1 spaces

2) ch4, turn
(dc, ch1) in each of next 3 dc's
dc in last dc

3-22) or desired length
repeat Row 2

Fasten off leaving a long enough tail for sewing.
sew strap to corresponding end of bag

*optional- make neat rounds of sc along both sides of strap and opening of bag.
(it will be rounds cuz you will work one side of the body of the bag and go up one side of the strap, join and fasten off yarn
then do the same for the other side.

**also optional- make a chain to your desired length and thread it through the top round of meshes. mmhmm it's a drawstring.

this is my original pattern, please do not copy or print to sell
link back to my blog to share, you can print out a copy for your use
and you may sell finished product

Mari

Little Orenji Purse

aluminum size I (US) hook
WW yarn, or preferred

Make Two:

1) ch5.
dc in 5th ch from hook, ch1
(dc, ch1) 4 times in same space
dc in same space

2) ch3, turn
dc in same sp as turning
2 dc in each st across

3) ch3, turn
dc in same sp as turning, ch1
(sk 1 dc, ch1, 2dc in next ch1 space, ch1) across
ending with 2dc in last stitch

4) ch3, turn
dc in same st as turning, ch1
(sk 1 dc, dc in next ch1 space, 2dc in next dc) across
ending with 1 dc in last stitch

5) ch3, turn
dc in same sp as turning, ch1
(sk 1 dc, dc in next dc, ch1, sk 1 dc, 2dc in next ch1 sp, ch1) across
ending with 2dc in last ch1 space, ch1, sk 1 dc, dc in last stitch

6) ch3, turn
dc in each of next 3 sts, 2dc in next
(dc in each of next 4 sts, 2dc in next) across
ending with dc in each of last 4 sts

do not turn, do not break off yarn.
ch multiples of 5 (example i chained 50 for the purse in the picture)
join with sl st to other side of the crescent

Handles Row which turns work into Rounds
7) ch3, turn
dc in each of next 4 sts, 2dc in next
(dc in each of next 5 sts, 2dc in next) around
join with sl st to top of beg ch3

8) ch1, sc in same sp as ch and in each around
join with sl st to top of first sc

Fasten off yarn.
On the Second Half, (make two, remember?) do not fasten off. instead,
join pieces together, facing desired side, and Slip Stitch together
matching stitch for stitch evenly, all the way around.

Fasten off yarn, join at one edge where the straps start.
Slip stitch the straps together, then work sc's evenly around the mouth of the bag.
join and fasten off yarn.


This is my original pattern, please do not copy or print to sell. It is free for your personal use. Please link back to my blog to share, you may print out a copy for your use. You may sell what you make from this pattern, though not in mass quantity.

Mari <3

Multicolor Tote

woooo yeah i made this tote in one day (actually less than that but i had to eat, shower, and be the cheering section for my boyfriend while he played a new racing game on the computer)
it's super easy and uses only single crochet... and a chain of course and slip stitches for joining.. derr.
so anyways here it is just for you!
i used Caron yarn that are Mill Ends so i cant say what kind of Caron (possibly about 4 to 6 ounces?). all i know is that its magnificently multicolored... and i used an aluminum size J (US) hook.

here are the Instructions:

ch 31

Round 1) sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across, putting 3 sc in last ch.
turn work and make sc's across other side of foundation chain, to the last chain.
make 2sc's in that one
join with sl st to top of first sc. (64 sc's around)

Round 2) ch1, sc in same sp as joining and in each around, putting 2 sc's in each of the 3 sc's on the ends. join with sl st to top of first sc. (68 sc's around)

Round 3) ch1, sc in same sp as joining and in each sc around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (68 sc's around)

Rounds 4-35 ) repeat round 3.

at end of Round 35, join and do not fasten off yarn.

Straps:

First Strap:
Row 1) ch1, turn.
sc in same st as joining and in each of next 3 sts.

Row 2) ch1, turn.
sc in each of the 4 sc's.

Rows 3-42) repeat Row 2. At end of Row 42, fasten off yarn leaving a tail for sewing. Skip over 17 stitches to the right and sew the other end of the strap there starting at the 18th stitch
weave in ends neatly.

*Note- of course you can make your straps as long or as short as you want, i just made mine 42 rows long :)

Second Strap:
join yarn with sl st, 9 stitches away from the first strap on the other side of the bag.

repeat Rows as for First Strap, fasten off yarn after the 42nd Row, leaving a tail for the sewing.

Sew the end evenly, making sure that this strap has 17 stitches between the ends, and 9 stitches between the two straps on either side.

Weave in ends neatly.

i put a slip stitch edge along the top and edges of the straps to make it look a little neater, which is just slip stitch in each stitch around... and i made a button hole for a button which i have not yet sewed on :P
i did this by making chains (in my case 20) in the appropriate place in the center of the backside on the top.

*optional- cut a length of fabric slightly wider and twice as long as the size of the bag. Sew with needle and thread into a pocket shape, and then sew that into the bag. (its easier to turn the crochet bag inside out and slip the cloth over it, then sew the open top parts together)

this is my original pattern. please do not copy or print to sell. you may link back to my blog to share, and print out a copy for your own personal use. you may also sell what you make from this pattern, though not in mass quantity.

<3 Mari

8 Points Round Ripple Blanket

Hi :D it's been a while since i posted on here even though i havent been (really) slacking on projects...
Here is my pattern for a round ripple blanket. i'm surprised at how it turned out cuz it started out not even looking like the picture. i'll put progress pics further on in the post so you can see what i mean.
Anyway, i used Caron Simply Soft yarn and an aluminum size J hook. The directions are a bit funky since i couldn't get the written pattern to flow the way my hook did, hopefully it's not too bad.

Instructions:

ch4, join with sl st to form ring.

Round 1)
ch4 to count as 1st dc+ch1. (cd, ch1) in ring 7 times so that you have 8 sections.

Round 2)
ch1, sc in same sp as joining *(2dc, ch3, 2dc) in next ch1 sp, sc in next dc.
repeat from * around. you will have 8 petals. join with sl st to 1st sc.

Round 3)
ch1, sc in same st as joining. dc in next 2 dc's, *(2dc, ch3, 2dc) in next ch3 sp.
dc in each of next 2 dc's, sc in next sc, dc in each of next 2 dc's*
repeat from * to * around, join with sl st to top of 1st sc.

Round 4)
sl st in 1st 2 sts.
ch2 to count as 1st hdc.
*sk i st, dc in next. (3dc, ch3, 3dc) in next ch3 sp.
sk 1 dc, dc in next stitch. sk 1 dc, hdc in next stitch.
sc2tog over next 3 stitches (you will skip the sc stitch in the middle). hdc in next dc.
repeat from * around, ending with last sc2tog over 3 stitches.
join with sl st to top of 1st hdc.


It should look like this about now kinda:


Round 5)
sl st in next stitch
ch 4 to count as 1st dc+ch1, dc in same st.
*sk 1 st, hdc in next, ch1.
3sc in next ch3 sp, ch1. sk 1 st, hdc in next, sk 1 st.
(dc, ch1. dc) in next stitch. sk 3 sts, (dc, ch1, dc) in next.
repeat from * around, ending with (dc, ch1, dc), sk last 3 stitches.
join with sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch4.

Round 6)
ch4 to count as 1st dc+ch1. hdc in next ch1 sp.
*sc in next st and in next ch1 sp, sk next hdc, sc in next
sc in center sc of next 3sc corner. sc in next ch1 sp, sk next hdc
sc in next ch1 sp and in next dc, hdc in next ch1 sp.
dc in next dc, ch3, dc in next dc. hdc in next ch1 sp.
repeat from * around, ending with ch3
join with sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch4.


Then it sort of changes... after a while it poofs on the inside and you can define the points with light shaping



Round 7)
ch3 to count as 1st dc.
dc in next ch1 sp and in next sc.
sk 1 st, dc3tog over next 3 sts.
*sk 1 st, dc in each of next 3 sts, (3dc, ch3, 3dc) in next ch3 sp
dc in each of next 3 sts, sk 1 st, dc3tog over next 3 sts.
repeat from * around, ending with (3dc, ch3, 3dc) in last ch3 sp.
join with sl st to top of beg ch3.

Repeat Round 7 respectively, continue to desired size.


this is my original pattern, please do not sell, copy, or distribute. please link back to my blog if you would like to share my pattern, it is free for your personal use. you may sell your finished products (not in mass quantity) but do not copy (or print) to sell this pattern.


Mari <3

Baby Dress

this is my very first ever baby dress design. yay! it's original and pretty but i have yet to test the sizing :P so if anyone feels up for a challenge i would appreciate some feedback if people try to make this one :D
i made it for my cousin's baby girl (who isn't born yet) and i tried to match the size with a commercially made baby dress. which was size 3-6 months.

primarily i used an aluminum size G hook (US). and i also used an aluminum size I hook (US) for the skirt part.
on the right is a closeup of the skirt, the stitches look pretty, drape super easily, and are fast and easy even though they look kinda complicated :D

the dress works up in two pieces (front and back) which are stitched together leaving an opening for the button flap. i decided to try that type of closure instead of at the back because i don't like how sometimes you can have gaps with crochet, and this way the baby wont have to wear a shirt underneath.

here below is a picture of the front detail

And now finally! the Instructions:
*Note- i use the terms CA and CB for color A and color B. you can make yours in any and as many colors as you want, just make sure to keep track of your stitches :)

FRONT:

With G hook and CA
ch 37

Row 1) hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each across. ch2, turn. (36 hdc)

Rows 2-6) repeat Row 1.

Row 7) hdc in next 11 sts. ch2, turn. (12 hdc)

Rows 8-10) repeat Row 7. At end of Row 10, do not ch 2, do not turn. Fasten off.

Now, making sure WRONG SIDE of work faces you, join yarn like so:

count 12 stitches in, from left to right, of the stitches unworked from Row 6. Join with a sl st to the 13th st and chain 2 (counts as 1st hdc)
hdc across the remaining 11 sts.

Next 3 Rows) ch2, turn, hdc across. (12 hdc)

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.


2nd PIECE: THE BACK.

ch 37.

Row 1) hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each across. ch2, turn. (36 hdc)

Rows 2-10) repeat Row 1.

Row 11) hdc in each of next 11 sts, ch2, turn. (12 hdc)

Row 12) BUTTON HOLES ROW: hdc in next st, ch2, sk 1 st. hdc in each of next 6 sts, ch2, sk 1 st, hdc in last 2 sts. ch1, turn.

Row 13) sc in each hdc across, putting one sc in each ch2 space.

Row 14) ch1, turn. sc in each sc across. fasten off and weave in ends.

*Now would be a good time to position and sew on your buttons.

Turn pieces inside out (RIGHT SIDE facing RIGHT SIDE and WRONG SIDE facing air... or you)
and sew the little shoulder seam. Then turn the piece right side out, SWITCH COLORS! RS facing!


THE SKIRT: with G hook and CB

join yarn with sl st to center of back. sc in same st twice. make 2 sc in each st around, except when you get to the unjoined ends.
sc those together (overlapping, not decreasing) to close it up, and put an extra sc in same st. makes sense?:)
join with sl st to top of 1st sc. ch2, do not turn.

the pattern stitch for the skirt is called Crossed Bar Stitch which i first saw on Dot's page Crochet bythehook, in this pattern http://bythehook.blogdrive.com/archive/85.html

in my tiny miniscule slight variation: (since all sts in1st row are sc and none are ch's)

yo, insert hook in same st as joining and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook)
skip 1 stitch, yo, insert hook in next st and pull up a loop (5 loops on hook)
yo and pull through all 5 loops on hook. ch1.

*yo, insert hook in same st as end of previous one and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook)
sk 1 stitch, yo, and insert hook in next st and pull up a loop (5 loops on hook)
yo and pull through all 5 loops on hook. ch1*

repeat from * to * around. The last stitch will be as follows, with only one free "hole" visible:

yo, insert hook in same st as end of previous one, and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook)
sk 1 st, yo, and insert hook in same st as beginning of 1st stitch of ROund.
pull up a loop (5 loops on hook) yo and pull through all 5 loops on hook. ch1.
join with sl st to top of 1st crossed bar stitch.

CHANGE TO I HOOK!!!

continue in this pattern, working in the ch1 spaces of previous Rounds, until you have a total of 16 Rounds of Pattern Stitch.

Next Round: ch1, sc in same st as joining. *ch1, sk 1 st, sc in ch1 sp*
repeat from * to * around, ending with ch1, join with sl st to top of 1st sc. Fasten off color.

Edging: CHANGE COLORS!! CHANGE TO G HOOK!! lol

join yarn with sl st to last ch1 space of previous Round. ch1 and sc in same sp.
(3dc in next ch1 space, sc in next) around, ending with last 3 dc in last ch1 space. join with sl st to top of 1st sc. Fasten off, weave in ends.


THE SLEEVES: with CA and G hook.

Do the sleeve without the buttons first because it's easier and you will get the hang of it.
Join yarn with sl st to anywhere on armhole, RS facing you of course. (join at armpit for no-show seam)

Round 1) sc around evenly, 32 stitches.
Please MAKE SURE there are 32 around evenly or the pattern stitch won't work. And neither will the edging.

Round 2) Work same crossed bar pattern stitch as for skirt.

Rounds 3-4) Repeat Round 2. heh.

Round 5) ch1, sc in same st as joining. ch1, *sk 1 st, sc in next ch1 space, ch1*
repeat from * to * around. join with sl st to 1st sc. Fasten off.

**When doing the sleeve with the buttons, work same as other sleeve EXCEPT:
MAKE SURE NOT TO STICH THE FLAP TO THE SLEEVE or you won't be able to fit the baby's head through.
Work carefully around, unbutton the buttons so you know what ends where, and soforth.
You will be stitching in Rounds, so don't let the Row thing bother you, the stitches will join it into a functional sleeve :)

Sleeve Edging:

1) with CB and G hook, work the same as Skirt Edging.

Neckline Edging:

with CB and G hook
Join yarn (RS facing you) to that left corner of the neck that's hidden under the button flap.
work sc's evenly all around the neck, then work sc's (still evenly) around the button flap.
sl st instead of sc where the last st should be, so that the edging fades nicely into the dress instead of poking out awkwardly.
Fasten off and weave in ends.

This is my original pattern, please do not sell it or copy it to sell it. You may print out a copy for yourself for your own use. If you want to share with friends please direct them to my blog. You may sell what you make, not in mass quantity.

<3 Mari

Shells- Patria ... a purse :)

Here is a purse i made while just playing with yarn... as you can see i still wasn't over the shells :)
i named it after my grandmother because she was on my mind while i was yeening.
i used an aluminum size I hook (US) and a small amount of WW yarn (i used Caron One Pounder)

Instructions:

chain 19.

Round 1) sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across, putting 3sc in last ch. now work free loops of same chain, 1 sc in each space, to the last one, which is same as 1st sc. put 2 sc's in same spot as 1st sc. join with sl st to 1st sc.

Round 2) ch1, 2sc in same st as joining and next sc. 1sc in each of next 16 sc. 2sc in each of next 3sc. 1sc in each of next 16 sc. 2sc in last. join with sl st to top of 1st sc.

Round 3) ch3 to count as 1st dc, 2dc in same st(sk 1 st, sc in next, sk 1 st, 5dc shell in next) around to last 4 sts. sk 1 st, sc in next, sk last unworked st and make 2dc in same st as beginning ch3. join with sl st to top of ch3.

Round 4) ch1, sc in same st as joining. (5dc shell in next sc, sc in center of next 5dc shell) around to last sc. make 5dc shell in last sc, join with sl st to top of 1st sc.

Rounds 5- 12) repeat Rounds 3 and 4.

Round 13) ch3 to count as 1st dc, hdc in next, *sc in next, sl st in next, sc in next, hdc in next, dc in next, hdc in next* repeat around. join with sl st to top of beginning ch3.

Round 14) (4sc, 2sctog) around. join with sl st to top of 1st sc.

Round 15) ch1, make 55 sc bl only, around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

Round 16) ch1, make 55 sc bl only, around. join with sl st to top of first sc.
DO NOT FASTEN OFF

Yay now the handles:
work in BL only.

1) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 10 sts. ch44. sk 12 sc's. sc in each of next 16 sts. ch 44. sk 12 sc's, sc in each of last 4 sts. join with sl st to top of 1st sc.

2) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 8 sts. *work 3sctog over next 3 sts (yes this includes the 1st ch from the first handle). sc in each of next 42 ch's. work 3sctog over next 3 sts (includes the last ch from 1st handle). *sc in each of next 12 sc. now rep from *to* for other handle. sc in each of last 2sts. join with sl st to top of 1st sc.

Now you can line your purse with cloth :D or not, either way. although the lining would give you an opportunity to put a velcro, snap, or button inside the cloth part :D

This is my original pattern. Please do not sell this pattern. Feel free to print out a copy for your own use. If you would like to share with friends, please direct them to my blog :)
You may sell what you make, not in mass quantity.

<3 Mari

It's a Hat! (It's a Square?)

this is a hat i made from shells after making like a billion Cupcake Tops from the Stitch 'n Bitch Crochet book by Debbie Stoller. i couldn't get the shells out of my brain!
So yeah, the second pic is me wearing the hat cuz i don't have a artificial head to model it with :P


i used an aluminum size I hook (US) and WW yarn.

Instructions:

Chain 4, join with sl st to form ring.

Round 1) ch2, make 16 hdc in ring, join with sl st to top of 1st hdc, not the chain.

Round2) ch1, sc in same space, sk 1 st, *5dc(shell) in next. sk 1 st, sc in next, sk 1 st, around. til there are 4 shells around. join with sl st to top of beginning sc.

Round 3) ch4, dc in same space. *ch2, sc in center dc of next shell. ch2, make (dc, ch1) twice in next sc. dc in same sc.* around til last shell. sc in top of last shell, ch2, dc in same st as beginning ch4. ch1, join with sl st to 3rd of chain 4.

Round 4) ch3, 2dc in same st as joining. (sc in next dc, 5dc in next sc) around to last unworked dc of Round. sc in that dc, then make 2dc in same stas beginning ch3. join with sl st to top of ch3.

Round5) ch1, sc in same space. *ch2, make (dc, ch1) twice in next sc, then make another dc in same st. ch2, sc in center of next shell, ch1, make V stitch-(dc, ch1, dc)- in next sc, ch1, sc in center of next shell. rep from * around to last sc. make V stitch in last sc, ch1, join with sl st to top of 1st sc.

Round 6) ch3, 2dc in same stitch. (sc in next dc, 5dc in next dc, sc in next dc<--corner made. 5dc in next sc, sc in ch1 space of next V stitch, 5dc in next sc) around til last unworked V stitch. sc in ch1 space of last V stitch, 2dc in same space as beginning ch3. join with sl st to top of ch3.

Round 7) ch1, sc in same space, 5dc in next sc. work (sc in center of next shell, shell in next sc) around. join with a sl st to top of 1st sc. (12 shells around)

Round 8) ch3, 2dc in same st. sc in center of next shell. work (shell in next sc, sc in center of next shell) around, putting 2dc in same st as beginning ch3. join with sl st to top of beginning ch3.

Rounds 9-10) Repeat Rounds 7 and 8.

Round 11) ch1, sc in same space, *(dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc) <---called shell in next round) in next sc, sc in center of next shell, repeat from * around, ending with: (dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc) in last sc. join with sl st to top of 1st sc.

Round 12) ch4, dc in same space. *sc in center dc of next shell. (dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc shell) in next sc, repeat from * around, end with sc in center of last shell, dc in same st as beginning ch4. ch1, join with sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch4.

Rounds 13-16) Repeat Rounds 7 and 8.

Round 17) ch1, 2sc in same space as joining. sc in each stitch around, putting 3sc in center of each shell. end with: sc in same st as first 2sc of Round. join with sl st to top of 1st sc.

Round 18) ch1, sc in same space as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of 1st sc. Fasten off and weave in ends. Here is Tommy the Snowman modeling the hat so i could get a good top view for ya :)
This is my original pattern. Please do not sell the peattern, but do feel free to print out a copy for yourself for your own use. If you would like to share my pattern with friends, please direct them to my blog :) You may sell what you make, not in mass quantity.

<3 Mari

Woooooo Awesomeness

i finally got some time to try to update my blog (yay!)
and after a frustrating while of trying to reset my password... since i had forgotten it and couldnt remember what it could possibly be... i have accomplished bloggyness :D
so hopefully by tomorrow i will be posting new patterns and stuff..
it is way super late here and i originally wanted to post a pattern from my notebook but my eyes are all googly and blurry. it's a miracle i can still type :P
soooooo yes.
get ready!!!

<3