Spring-y Cloche (that's a type of hat)

i had a small amount of super bright green.. i think it's Caron Simply Soft Brites, probly about 3 oz. it was such a weirdo funky color green that it had to be made into a hat for me :)
i used an aluminum size I hook (US)

Make a magic ring

1) Make 12 sc in ring, join and pull tight. (i join at the end of my rounds no matter what, since i don't mind the seam, but you don't have to)

2) Make 2 sc in each sc around. (24 sc around)

3) sc in each sc around.

4) sc in first sc, 2sc in next. (sc in sc, 2 sc in next) around. (36 sc around)

5) sc in each sc around.

6) sc in first two sc, 2sc in next. (sc in next two sc, 2sc in next) around. (48 sc around)

7) sc in each sc around.

8) sc in first three sc, 2sc in next. (sc in next 3 sc, 2sc in next) around. (60 sc around)

9) sc in each sc around.

10) sc in first four sc, 2sc in next. (sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next) around. (72 sc around)

11) sc in each sc around.

12) sc in first five sc, 2sc in next. (sc in next 5 sc, 2sc in next) around. (84 sc around)

13-38) sc in each sc around. (84 sc around)

this is not the first nor will it be the last hat pattern of its kind. there are a ton of "cloche" or "flapper hat" patterns out there. mine is just a simple version of a 20s clothing accesory which i choose to share here in case anyone is interested in my method.

make, share, etsy/ebay, donate, but do not mass produce for profit. do not sell this pattern. do not redistribute this pattern. please link back to share. feel free to print a copy of the pattern.

Cottony Soft Scrub-Me-Up

i made this out of peaches n creme cotton, i'm not sure how much since im using Mill Ends, probly a ball and a half, maybe two. and i used an aluminum size F hook (US)

now the thing about this pattern is that it's worked to fit an individual hand (mine) lol. so i'll just approximate the idea to you here :)

it starts with chaining a length thats equal to the space from your finger tips to the meat of your palm, then working rows of sc's to slightly wider than your hand is, make sure to work in back loops only. you want your scrubby thingie to be actually capable of scrubbing :) so that's why there's ridges.

i changed it up after this but only slightly. instead of sc's i started doing dc's, still in back loops. and i did this for the width of the back of my hand.

once the whole piece was capable of surrounding my hand comfortably, i sewed it up in a tube, then sewed up one of the short ends. then i took my cotton and attached it to one side of the remaining short end that wasnt closed up (making sure to attach to the edge of one side. Make sure for yourself that you put your stitches in the right place, this is the only "tricky" part but if you don't watch out you wont have a proper thumb hole). i worked along the edge of that created opening evenly in sc's. you should be able to work rows evenly in back loops (not rounds) and there should be an open space where your thumb can peek through after about 12 rows or more.

work your sc's as much as you need to cover your hand up, so that it feels comfortable on your hand like a mitten. then once you have the right length, work a few rounds in either dc or sc (whichever you are more comfortable doing, i did dc's cuz i was running out of my first ball by this point and i wanted to make sure it was long enough.)

yes i did say rounds that last time lol. to make rounds directly after your rows, work in the same way that you have, except when you get the the end of your row do not turn.
just "jump" to the other edge and start your stitches again there, going across the other "side". you'll need to join your last stitch to the first "jump" one if you're like me and can never remember your place. if you have no problem working in rounds without joining, hoorah for you lol, carry on.

now at this point you have a mitt with a thumb hole.. so of course you need to make the thumby part :P

soooo. make a chain slightly longer than the circumference of your thumb and make a small rectangle of rows of sc's. work in back loops only. mark the place (or remember how many rows) where you will sew the swuare into a tube for your thumb. now crochet more rows of sc's, it should be a lil bit longer than your thumb actually is, from the base to the tip or vice versa actually. so you will have some extra stitches that wont be sewn together, cuz those will be the stitches that you sew to the hole on the mitten, so that it can actually become a mitten.

now here's a tip: work the "body" of the thumb straight. and then when you are working the "base" which you will not stitch together, make decreases in the beginning stitches of each new row.
to make decreases this way : ch1, put hook thru first stitch and draw up a loop. put hook thru next stitch and draw up another loop. now draw up one more loop and pull that loop through the other three on the hook.

don't be scared! it's not gonna be straight, but it will be fine. start by aligning the thumb's bottom stitches to the "bottom" of the hole. use pins if you have to. this is not an exact thing, you just have to sew as neatly as possible using the stitches that you have. sew sew sew, the ends together as evenly as possible, and when you get done you will have a mitten :) yay!

<3 Mari

Chunky Yarn Hat

Ok so here goes another hat... i went to wally world with paulie for some air compressor purchasement... and they had a lot of superwarm hats there. and rather than buy an eskimo hat (they were cute but not ummm.. fashionable) i decided to make a hat of equal warmth. without the fur. lol.
this is basically the same pattern as the Winter Green Hat from a previous post, worked in chunky yarn (Bernat Softee Chunky- less than one skein) using an aluminum size J hook (US). it was fun and quick to make, the two pics make me happy even though the second one is without the extra rounds on the bottom (i put those in later cuz i tend to overstretch my hats for no reason in particular and this helps keep it the right shape and size)
Anyways here goes:

ch 31

1) sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across. (30 sc)

2) ch1, turn. Working in Back Loops Only, sc in same st as turning and in each across. (30 sc)

3-54) repeat Row 2.

DO NOT FASTEN OFF

working across ends of Rows, make sc2tog over every 2 spaces. (there should be a space for each stitch, so you will end up with 27 stitches across)

work another row in the same way, leaving you with 13 sc2tog stitches and one sc.
Fasten off yarn, leaving a long enough tail to sew up the top. (top is part you've been decreasing on.)
sl st the side of the hat closed, make sure you weave in ends or work over them so they don't show. cuz it's a worse pain to weave them in later after the things all sewn up

turn hat inside out (this will be right side in) and attach yarn with sl st to back bottom of hat (try to get it as close to the seam as possible)

make about 2 to 4 rounds of sc along the brim, joining to top of first sc with sl st at end of each round. Fasten off yarn, weave in ends.

<3 Mari

Commie Mitts (fingerless gloves)

Alright so maybe they're not. But they can have their raving illogical delusions sometimes. i made these in my favorite colors, which i have been teased for in the past. They work up really fast and are all sc, the thing that some people might have a *tiny* problem with is the sizing. i have thin hands and fingers, and sometimes the only store bought gloves/mittens that will fit me are a kids size (the stretchy knit kind) So if while working on this pattern you find that they look too small for yourself, it will be easy to just add a few more stitches to the foundation, and a few more rows to the body :) Here goes the pattern:


Materials:
fingering weight yarn (about 1 oz per mitt)
aluminum size E hook (US)

(the mitts in the pic are multicolored but the directions will be for just one color. this way you can stripe it up as you see fit if you want)

ch 37

1) sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across. (36 sc)

2) ch1, turn. sc in same st as turning and in each across. (36 sc)

3-26) repeat Row 2.

Fasten off yarn,
fold piece in half and sew into a tube shape, making sure to leave a space open for the thumb.

Cuff:
ch 11

1) sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across. (10 sc)

2) ch1, turn. in BACK LOOPS ONLY, sc in same st as turning and in each across. (10 sc)

3-24) repeat Row 2.

Fold piece in half and sew into a short tube shape. Sew to bottom of mitt.

This is my original pattern. Please do not sell this pattern. Do not copy to sell, or post to any other website or publication. Please link back to my blog to share. You may print out a copy for your use. You may sell the finished product, not in mass quantity.

Mari <3

Winter Green Hat

i recently went to Jo-Ann's (the only craft store within reasonable bus ride distance) and found some little yarn skeins on sale. They were like 1 and 3/4ths oz, which is sometimes the perfect amount to make a hat with :P so here we go!
(well.. i actually used a LITTLE bit more than one skein, so round it up to 2 oz approx WW yarn)
oh yeah and i used an aluminum size F hook (US)

ch 35

1) sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across.

2) ch1, turn. Working in Back Loops Only, sc in same st as turning and in each across. Do Not count the first ch1 of the Row as a stitch. (34 sc)

3-62) Repeat Row 2.

Sometimes people's heads are different sizes :P sooo take the flat piece at this point and see how well it fits wrapped around your head lengthwise. If it's too small, work a few more Rows in. Too big? Vice versa.


At the end of Row 62 (or preferred) Do Not Fasten Off.
Fold piece in half Wrong Side Facing Out. Join together with sl st evenly across, so that you have a longish tube with an opening on either end.
Fasten off yarn, leaving a long tail that will be used to sew up the top.
Weave tail in and out between open spaces (between stitches) evenly, making sure that you go around the piece and not through both thicknesses at once. This will give you a kind of drawstring thingie, which you will pull REALLY TIGHTLY to close.
You may need to add a few extra stitches to make sure that it's sewed up properly.
Weave in the ends.

Optional:
You may want a neat edge to your hat by the brim, which can be accomplished with a nice even round of sc's all around. Or you could just wing it and try whatever stitch pattern you want for a personalized flare. I just left mine "natural" (lol) cuz i liked it that way.


This is my original pattern. While i'm very certain there are a billion others out there like it, i came up with this on my own. You may print out a copy for your use, personal, charitable, or for profit. Do Not Mass Produce For Profit.

<3 Mari

Slippers of Mari-ness (row 30 revised due to error)

(well here's one slipper anyway)
i made these slippers after studying up on how to go about making things for the feetses :D i saw a lot of cool patterns online for socks and slippers, and some of them actually work out really comfortably. but for some strange mari reason i wanted to get my own thing done. i appreciate all the help i got from looking things up :)
see my initial problem (i thought at first) was the heel of the footwear. how to get it to slip on without having to do all that crazy heel shaping mumbo jumbo that sock makers love so much. im a simple girl and i like things to work without me having to really think about them lol. so i took what i knew about socks and feet and slippers and crochet and applied all of it. so i came up with this pattern. im sure that there are a bunch out there that are similar but i figured i'd put out my version of simplicity, for the sake of diversity and stuff.
anyways here it goes:
i used an aluminum size J hook (US) and one 3.5 oz skein of Bernat Softee Chunky yarn
my shoe size is a womens 6 (US), i made these to fit over socks so they might be able to stretch to about a size 8 or 9 depending on the type of yarn you use and the tension in your stitches. MAKE SURE IT'S CHUNKY YARN, if not, use two strands of WW together

MAKE TWO:

ch6
1) sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across to last ch.
Work 3 sc in last ch.
turn piece and work in free loops of beginning chain like so:
sc in each st across to last ch
work 2 sc in last ch, join with sl st to top of first sc.

2) ch1, 2 sc in same st as joining
sc in each of next 3 sc's
2 sc in each of next 3 sc's
sc in each of next 3 sc's
2 sc in each of last 2 sc's. join with sl st to top of first sc.

3) ch1, 2 sc in same st as joining
2 sc in next sc
sc in each of next 3 sc's
2 sc in each of next 6 sc's
sc in each of next 3 sc's
2 sc in each of next 4 sc's. join with sl st to top of first sc.

4-18) work in back loops only
ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each around
join with sl st to top of first sc.

at end of Round 18, do not fasten off. you will be working in Rows next.

19) do not turn.
sl st into the next 6 sts.
now ch1, turn.
working over the sl sts, and in front loops only:
sc in each sc.
do not join.

20) ch1, turn
working in back loops only:
sc in each sc across

21) ch1, turn
working in front loops only:
sc in each sc across

22-28) repeat Rows 20 and 21 alternately

29) ch1, turn
working in front loops only:
sc in each of first 10 sc's
make (sc2tog over next 2 stitches) until there are only 10 sc's left in the Row
sc in each of last 10 sc's

30) ch1, turn
working in back loops only:
sc in each of first 4 sts
make (sc2tog over next two stitches) consecutively until there are only 5 sts left on that Row
sc in each of last 5 sts

Fasten off yarn leaving a long enough tail to sew the heel up.

turn heel inside out and whipstitch closed.
if you whipstitch it right side un, it leaves a weird bump all along the sewed up part so i do it when its inside out.
turn right side in.

Attach yarn with sl st to top opening of slipper
Make 2 Rounds of sc's evenly around top of slipper. Fasten off yarn, weave in ends.

This pattern is not to be sold. Please do not copy to any other website or publication. It is a free pattern for your personal use, and you may print out a copy for that use. Please link back to my blog to share.

<3 Mari

Simple Granite Stitch Purse

i made this purse while i was making all those other ones in my previous posts. somehow i forgot to get it in here.
it is a super easy purse using Granite Stitch pattern which is simply sc's and chains alternating. and it was all done in rows in one flat piece, then folded in half and sewn together. the strap is done in the same stitch and then sewed on from the inside (i used the seams as sort of stitch markers for placement)
it's made with WW yarn although it would most definitely be less stretchy in cotton or nylon or even thread (although that would give you a teeny tiny purse)
and an aluminum size F (US) hook
i would say folded up my purse body came to about 4 by 6 inches, so its a fairly small bag. definitely line this purse with cloth, because stuff will fall through the little holes in the pattern.
Anyways here is the pattern :)

Purse Body:
chain 31

1) sc in second chain from hook
(ch1, skip next chain, sc in next) across

2) ch1, turn
sc in first sc and in the ch1 space
(ch1, skip next sc, sc in next ch1 space) across

continue to work the rows in this way. when if you come up to the last sc of a row and there arent any more chain spaces, just put an sc in that last stitch

also it works the other way around. when you come to the start of a new row and the first st is an sc and the second is a chain, put an sc in both of them.

so anyways, continue in this way until you have 52 rows (or how ever many you desire)
at the end of your last row, fasten off the yarn. fold the piece in half evenly, and slip stitch the sides together. now you have a pouch (yay!)

Purse Straps:
making sure you have a nice long enough tail (for sewing) on the end of your starting chain,
chain 100 (or however many you desire for length)
and work back and forth in the same way you did for the purse body, for 4 rows
of course you can make the strap as wide or skinny as you like.
when you have finished the strap, fasten off the yarn leaving a long enough tail to sew the other side.

sew the straps so that they make a cross with the seams on the body of the bag, and then turn it inside out. now you have a little bag with straps (yay some more!)

now i opted to make a long chain and thread it through the top of my bag for a closure, but you might want to try a button, a snap, or a zipper, so i'll encourage you to have your own way with it :)

Mari

Rainbow Mini Paulie-face

well if i can do it.. so can YOU!
just go out and get some stuffing, that's all i had to do.. and a lil snowman looking pocket became a fluffy little body which i felt compelled to sew arms and legs onto!! voila! amigurumi!
so easy, so EASY! i can't believe i never did it before.
and i just made it up as i went. this guy is mini paulie-face,and he sits, stands, and with a little help from human hands.. can also do the double fisted raised arms cheer. yes. (i mean.. YES!!!)
so anyways for my guy i used an aluminum size G (US) hook, and regular WW yarn in a paulie-face rainbow color. the head and body are made in one piece, then the legs and arms are made and sewed on. you dont really have to be that precise when sewing those on, just make sure its secure and aim for one center of balance.. even if it turns out slightly to the left (or right)

here goes the pattern:

**work in rounds always, i join at the end of mine cuz my eyeballs get all googly if i don't. if you can and/or want to, dont join and just use stitch markers (or your god-given eagle eyes)

ch2

1) sc in 2nd ch from hook 6 times. join with sl st to top of first sc.

2) ch1, make 2 sc in each sc around. join with sl st to top of first sc. you will have 12 sts around.

3) ch1, sc in same st as joining. (2sc in next sc, sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. you will have 18 sts around.

4) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in next. (2sc in next sc, sc in each of next two) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. you will have 24 stts around.

5) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in next two. (2 sc in next sc, sc in each of next three) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. you will have 30 sts around.

6)ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

7-10) repeat round 6.

11) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in next two. (sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in each of next 3 sts) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. you will have 24 sts around.

12) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in next. (sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in each of next 2 sts) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. you will have 18 sts around.

13) ch1, sc in same st as joining. (sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. you will have 12 sts around.

14) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each st around. join with sl st to top of first sc. you will have 12 sts around.

15) ch1, 2sc in same st as joining. 2sc in each st around. join with sl st to top of first sc. you will have 24 sts around.

16) ch1, sc in same st as joining. (2sc in next sc, sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. you will have 36 sts around.

17) ch1, sc in same st as joining. sc in each sc around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

18-24) repeat round 17

25) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 3. (sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in each of next 4) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. you will have 30 sts around

26) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 2. (sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in each of next 3) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. you will have 24 sts around

27) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in next. (sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in each of next 2) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. you will have 18 sts around.

At THIS POINT YOU WILL WANT TO STUFF THE HEAD AND BODY IF YOU HAVENT ALREADY STARTED TO

28) ch1, sc in same st as joining. (sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. you will have 12 sts around.

29) ch1, sc2tog over first 2 sts. (sc2tog over next 2 sts) around. join with sl st to top of first sc2tog. you will have 6 sts around.

30) ch1, sc2tog over first 2 sts. work sc2tog around. you will have 3 sts around.

sl st the opening closed.

LEGS (make two):

ch2

1) sc in 2nd ch from hook 6 times. join with sl st to first sc.

2) ch1, 2sc in each sc around. join with sl st to top of first sc. you will have 12 sts around.

3) ch1, sc in same st as joining. (2sc in next sc, sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. you will have 18 sts around.

4) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

5-6) repeat round 4.

7) ch1, sc in same st as joining. (sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. you will have 12 sts around.

8) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

9-20) repeat round 8.
at end of round 20, do not fasten off. after u stuff the leg, sl st it closed so it looks like a wedge shape. leave a long enough tail for sewing.


ARMS (make two):

ch2

1) sc in 2nd ch from hook 6 times. join with sl st to top of first sc.

2) ch1, 2 sc in each st around. join with sl st to top of first sc. you will have 12 sts around.

3) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

4-5) repeat round 3.

6) ch1, work (sc2tog over next 2 sts) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. you will have 6 sts around.

STUFF HAND THINGIE NOW CUZ IT WILL ONLY GET HARDER LATER.

7) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

8-15) repeat round 7.

STUFF ARM. do not fasten off. sl st the arm closed like you did the legs, and leave a long enough tail for sewing.



now sew the legs to his bottom and the arms at about round 17 of the head/body part.
embroider your face or leave it blank if you like, you could also use buttons, in which case i wouldnt recommend you give it to a child.

this is my original pattern (though im sure there are countless other amigurumi patterns out there) so please do not print or copy to sell this pattern. you may print out a copy for yourself for your personal use. link back to my blog to share with friends.

<3 Mari

Multicolor Tote

woooo yeah i made this tote in one day (actually less than that but i had to eat, shower, and be the cheering section for my boyfriend while he played a new racing game on the computer)
it's super easy and uses only single crochet... and a chain of course and slip stitches for joining.. derr.
so anyways here it is just for you!
i used Caron yarn that are Mill Ends so i cant say what kind of Caron (possibly about 4 to 6 ounces?). all i know is that its magnificently multicolored... and i used an aluminum size J (US) hook.

here are the Instructions:

ch 31

Round 1) sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across, putting 3 sc in last ch.
turn work and make sc's across other side of foundation chain, to the last chain.
make 2sc's in that one
join with sl st to top of first sc. (64 sc's around)

Round 2) ch1, sc in same sp as joining and in each around, putting 2 sc's in each of the 3 sc's on the ends. join with sl st to top of first sc. (68 sc's around)

Round 3) ch1, sc in same sp as joining and in each sc around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (68 sc's around)

Rounds 4-35 ) repeat round 3.

at end of Round 35, join and do not fasten off yarn.

Straps:

First Strap:
Row 1) ch1, turn.
sc in same st as joining and in each of next 3 sts.

Row 2) ch1, turn.
sc in each of the 4 sc's.

Rows 3-42) repeat Row 2. At end of Row 42, fasten off yarn leaving a tail for sewing. Skip over 17 stitches to the right and sew the other end of the strap there starting at the 18th stitch
weave in ends neatly.

*Note- of course you can make your straps as long or as short as you want, i just made mine 42 rows long :)

Second Strap:
join yarn with sl st, 9 stitches away from the first strap on the other side of the bag.

repeat Rows as for First Strap, fasten off yarn after the 42nd Row, leaving a tail for the sewing.

Sew the end evenly, making sure that this strap has 17 stitches between the ends, and 9 stitches between the two straps on either side.

Weave in ends neatly.

i put a slip stitch edge along the top and edges of the straps to make it look a little neater, which is just slip stitch in each stitch around... and i made a button hole for a button which i have not yet sewed on :P
i did this by making chains (in my case 20) in the appropriate place in the center of the backside on the top.

*optional- cut a length of fabric slightly wider and twice as long as the size of the bag. Sew with needle and thread into a pocket shape, and then sew that into the bag. (its easier to turn the crochet bag inside out and slip the cloth over it, then sew the open top parts together)

this is my original pattern. please do not copy or print to sell. you may link back to my blog to share, and print out a copy for your own personal use. you may also sell what you make from this pattern, though not in mass quantity.

<3 Mari

Skull Cell Phone Holder

Out of necessity comes brilliance.. lol with a skull on it. it started with cotton, when i made a cell phone case for a phone which has a love/hate relationship with the floor. it constantly jumps out of my hand to be reunited with its abusive lover, only to be picked back up by me, scratched and broken-y. so i decided to make a protective case.
The first one i made got stolen. grrr! so i made another one, and then i made it AWESOME by adding a skull to the front of it. go me!

i used an aluminum size G hook (US) for both the bag and the skull, and WW yarn (you can pretty much use any kind, but if its really thin make sure its either stretchy or you know how to wing it). my colors are purple and wine, cuz they look awesome together. and also because those were pretty much the only colors i had :P
(i made this specifically for a motorola rzr, but it pretty much fits all cell phones)

Instructions:
**NOTE** ch1 in beginning of rounds never counts as an sc.

Bag: (work in rounds from the start, with no "rings")
ch 9.

1) 3sc in 2nd ch from hook. sc in next 6 sts, 3sc in last. now turn work upside down and sc in free loops of foundation chain. you should have 18 sts around evenly. join with sl st to top of 1st sc.

2-16) Now work in back loops only. ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to 1st sc.

Do Not Fasten Off. Do Not Turn.

ch 15.
without twisting yarn, join with sl st to same st you just came from, forming a loop.
Now turn (without chaining, and not too tightly) and sl st back the way you came, evenly thru each ch.
Fasten off, weave in ends. Take a moment to notice how neat and straight the seam is :) (thats my favorite part.. it also helps with the placement of the skull applique...

Now for the fun part!

Skull:
with contrasting color, chain 2.

Round 1) make 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. join with sl st to top of 1st sc. (6 sc around)

Round 2) ch 1, 2sc in same st as joining and in each around. (12 sc)

Round 3) ch 1, sc in same st as joining. (2sc in next sc, sc in next) around. (18 sc around)

Now the Jaw:

1) ch 1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 3 sc. (4 sc's across)

2) ch 1, sc in same st and in each of next 3. (4 sc's across)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

For the Face i strategically placed cute little embroidered X's (cuz it was easy that way) and a little slit for the nose... in the same color as the bag.

Sew Skull to front of bag. i put mine right in the center but you can always do whatever.

this is my original pattern. please do not sell it, or make copies to sell them, or copy this pattern to another website. feel free to link back to my blog. this pattern is for your personal use only.


Mari

Scarfness

ok now this is a scarf i made for a scarf exchange through one of my myspace groups.. (dont spill the beans!) as long as i dont name names i guess im good. i made this with about 6 ounces of black, about 3 ounces of tan, and a small amount of red (maybe an ounce?)
its longer than i am tall... im 5' plus an inch or two depending on which pair of shoes im wearing :)
and this works up pretty quick, except i was super distracted.. id say if i wasnt doing other things also it would have taken a day or two.

i used an aluminum size I hook (US) and all WW yarn

with black, ch 225
1) sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across. ch 1, turn.
2) sc in 1st sc, ch1, sk 1 sc, sc in next, *ch 1, sk 1 sc, sc in next sc* repeat from *to* across. sc in each of last 2 sc's. ch1, turn
3) sc in first sc and in first ch1 space. *ch 1, sk 1 sc, sc in next sc* repeat from *to* across.
4) reapeat Row 2.
5) repeat Row 3.
6) sc in each st across. fasten off black

with tan:
7) sc in each sc across. ch1, turn.
8) sc in each sc across. fasten off tan

with black:
9) sc in each sc across. ch1, turn.
10) repeat Row 2.
11) repeat Row 3.
12) sc in each st across. fasten off black

with tan:
13-14) repeat Rows 7 and 8.

with black:
15) sc in each sc across. ch1, turn.
16) repeat Row 2.
17) repeat Row 3.
18) repeat Row 2.
19) repeat Row 3.
20) sc in each st across. fasten off black

join red where black was fastened off and work in Rounds.
1) 3 sc in 1st st, sc across evenly to last st. 3 sc in last st. then work evenly down the side, making sure you have 18 evenly spaced stitches between the corners. (corners are always 3sc in same space). work in this fashion all the way around. join with sl st to 1st sc.
2) sc around evenly, putting 3 sc in corner spaces.
fasten off.


Fringe:
i cut 18 same size strands of yarn, 9 of each color, and put one of each color together for each fringe. they are spaced pretty much evenly, from corner to corner with 2 sts in between each. except for the second to last one which is gonna have 1 st between the fringes on one side, and 2 sts between the fringes on the other side.


hope thats a little clearer than mud :)

this is my original pattern. please do not sell it, or copy it to another web site. if you want to share with friends, please link back to my blog.
(btw printing out a copy of my pattern for your personal use is fine, as long as you're not selling the pattern)


Mari

Simple Squares Bag

this is a really easy bag i made using half a thing of aunt lydia's crochet cotton.. i dunno what that thingie is called that its wrapped around lol, it looks like a toilet paper roll to me...
it works up real fast cuz its very basically just three squares in sc, joined together funny and then i just added a strap... well the strap is actually in 2 parts and then tied together in the middle but you'll see :D
i used an aluminum size G hook.


Instructions:
First Square (body of bag)
1) ch2, 8 sc in 2nd ch from hook. join with sl st to 1st sc. (8sc)
2) ch1, sc in same st as joining. (3 sc in next sc, sc in next) around. join with sl st to 1st sc. (16 sc)
3) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in next. (3sc in next sc, sc in each of next 2) around. join with sl st to first sc. (24 sc)
4) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in next 2. (3sc in next sc, sc in each of next 3) around. join with sl st to 1st sc. (32 sc)
5) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 3. (3sc in next sc, sc in each of next 4) around. join with sl st to 1st sc. (40 sc)
6) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 4. (3sc in next sc, sc in each of next 5) around. join with sl st to 1st sc. (48 sc)
7) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 5. (3sc in next sc, sc in each of next 6) around. join with sl st to 1st sc. (56 sc)
8) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 6. (3sc in next sc, sc in each of next 7) around. join with sl st to 1st sc. (64 sc)
9) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 7. (3sc in next sc, sc in each of next 8) around. join with sl st to 1st sc. (72 sc)
10) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 8. (3sc in next sc, sc in each of next 9) around. join with sl st to 1st sc. (80 sc)
11) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 9. (3sc in next sc, sc in each of next 10) around. join with sl st to 1st sc. (88 sc)
12) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 10. (3sc in next sc, sc in each of next 11) around. join with sl st to 1st sc. (96 sc)
13) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 11. (3sc in next sc, sc in each of next 12) around. join with sl st to 1st sc. (104 sc)
14) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 12. (3sc in next sc, sc in each of next 13) around. join with sl st to 1st sc. (112 sc)
15) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 13. (3sc in next sc, sc in each of next 14) around. join with sl st to 1st sc. (120 sc)
16) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 14. (3sc in next sc, sc in each of next 15) around. join with sl st to 1st sc. (128 sc)
17) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 15. (3sc in next sc, sc in each of next 16) around. join with sl st to 1st sc. (136 sc)
18) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 16. (3sc in next sc, sc in each of next 17) around. join with sl st to 1st sc. (144 sc)
19) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 17. (3sc in next sc, sc in each of next 18) around. join with sl st to 1st sc. (152 sc)
20) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 18. (3sc in next sc, sc in each of next 19) around. join with sl st to 1st sc. (160 sc)
Fasten off and weave in ends.


Second Square- make 2:
work the same as First square for 6 Rounds only.
do not fasten off, instead:
sl st into the next st over, and start joining the square to one side of the big one. (it doesnt really matter which side cuz they're all the same number of stitches... just make sure u stitch the other small square to the side opposite it)
i joined my squares with sc, but i guess u could use whatever stitch u want :)
make sure that the 3sc corners of the little square all get joined to only one st on the big square (per corner)
what i did for my corners was just like a 3sc decrease, joined to the one corresponding stitch on the big square.


now after you have joined your squares, whip stitch the top opening closed a little bit if you like... i whip stitched 12 sts on each side for a little mouth opening, but you can do it however you like, or use a zipper or what have you. now for the straps!


Straps- make 2:
making sure to leave a long tail in the beginning (for sewing, duh)
ch 71 (or desired)
1) sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across. then flip the work over so that the stitches are upside down, and work an sc in each of the free loops.. oh make sure u put 3 sc's into each end or it will curl kinda tight.
fasten off and weave in that end. then go back to the long tail from the beginning, and use that to whip stitch your strap to the side of your bag (this is why i joined my squares with sc, cuz it was easier for me to see the stitches)


once u have got both straps attached, tie them together in a knot or a bow, and voila! a simple litte purse! :D
i use mine for my extra hooks, measuring tape, a few writing utensils, and my scissors..


this is my original pattern. please do not sell it, or copy it to another web site. you may sell the finished product if you wish. please link back to my blog :)


Mari

Simple Sweater

i made this sweater all in single crochet, its very soft but a bit breezy, so you might want to wear something under it if its cold, or use 2 strands of yarn at once for thickness. this is just a prototype, which of course i then made a gift of :) yay me. i used some 3.5 oz balls of yarn- 4 of the main color (with a lot of the 4th ball left over) and 1 of the contrasting color (also with a lot of the ball left over. and i used a plastic size N hook. this fits a women's size small/medium, but you can change the size easily by chaining more stitches on the beginning foundation and adding more rows to the body for length.


2 colors: MC and CC


Instructions: with MC, ch 121


Row 1) sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across.


Row 2) ch1, turn. sc in each sc across. (make sure u always have 120 sc across)


Rows 3-17) Repeat Row 2.


Row 18) change to CC and Repeat Row 2.


Row 19) (to make neck) ch1, turn. sc in each of 1st 50 sc. ch 20, skip next 20 sts. sc in each of last 50 sc.


Row 20) ch1, turn. sc in each sc and ch across. fasten off CC.


Rows 21-36) change to MC and Repeat Row 2.


At the end of Row 36, turn butdo not ch1. fold piece in half lengthwise so that the last Row worked and the Foundation chain meet.


Making sure that each stitch matches up, sl st (thru both thicknesses) in each of next 40 sts, to join sides and make sleeve. Fasten off, then with same side facing and counting left to right, skip 39 sts and join yarn to 40th st. sl st in each of last 39 sts. Fasten off and weave in ends.


You will now be working in Rounds.


Round 1) without turning work, join yarn with sl st to the farthest st to the right (the same st as last joining sl st of first sleeve). sc in each st around, including where 1st and last stitches of joining were made for sleeves. (80 sc around)


Round 2) ch1, turn. sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (80 sc)


Rounds 3-4) Repeat Round 2.


Rounds 5-6) change to CC and Repeat Round 2.


Rounds 7-12) change to MC and Repeat Round 2.


Rounds 13-14) change to CC and Repeat Round 2.


Rounds 15-34) change to MC and Repeat Round 2.


Round 35) (dec shaping round so the body doesnt look all ripply) ch1, turn. sc in same st as joining and in each of next 6. dec over next 2 sts. (sc in each of next 7sc, dec over next 2 sts) around. join with sl st to top of 1st sc. (72 sts)


Round 36) ch1, turn. sc in each st around. join with sl st to top of 1st sc.


Neck:
Work 2 Rounds of sc around neck opening, making sure to sc dec over the 3 sts in both corners of 1st Round. Fasten off and weave in ends.








this is my original pattern. please do not sell this pattern, but you can print a copy for your personal use. if you feel the need to share with friends, please link back to my blog. you may sell the finished product if you wish, but dont forget to give credit where it's due!


Mari