Sunday, June 8, 2008

Little Orenji Purse


aluminum size I (US) hook
WW yarn, or preferred

Make Two:

1) ch5.
dc in 5th ch from hook, ch1
(dc, ch1) 4 times in same space
dc in same space

2) ch3, turn
dc in same sp as turning
2 dc in each st across

3) ch3, turn
dc in same sp as turning, ch1
(sk 1 dc, ch1, 2dc in next ch1 space, ch1) across
ending with 2dc in last stitch

4) ch3, turn
dc in same st as turning, ch1
(sk 1 dc, dc in next ch1 space, 2dc in next dc) across
ending with 1 dc in last stitch

5) ch3, turn
dc in same sp as turning, ch1
(sk 1 dc, dc in next dc, ch1, sk 1 dc, 2dc in next ch1 sp, ch1) across
ending with 2dc in last ch1 space, ch1, sk 1 dc, dc in last stitch

6) ch3, turn
dc in each of next 3 sts, 2dc in next
(dc in each of next 4 sts, 2dc in next) across
ending with dc in each of last 4 sts

do not turn, do not break off yarn.
ch multiples of 5 (example i chained 50 for the purse in the picture)
join with sl st to other side of the crescent

Handles Row which turns work into Rounds
7) ch3, turn
dc in each of next 4 sts, 2dc in next
(dc in each of next 5 sts, 2dc in next) around
join with sl st to top of beg ch3

8) ch1, sc in same sp as ch and in each around
join with sl st to top of first sc

Fasten off yarn.
On the Second Half, (make two, remember?) do not fasten off. instead,
join pieces together, facing desired side, and Slip Stitch together
matching stitch for stitch evenly, all the way around.

Fasten off yarn, join at one edge where the straps start.
Slip stitch the straps together, then work sc's evenly around the mouth of the bag.
join and fasten off yarn.


This is my original pattern, please do not copy or print to sell. It is free for your personal use. Please link back to my blog to share, you may print out a copy for your use. You may sell what you make from this pattern, though not in mass quantity.

Mari <3

Saturday, May 31, 2008

Multicolor Tote



woooo yeah i made this tote in one day (actually less than that but i had to eat, shower, and be the cheering section for my boyfriend while he played a new racing game on the computer)
it's super easy and uses only single crochet... and a chain of course and slip stitches for joining.. derr.
so anyways here it is just for you!
i used Caron yarn that are Mill Ends so i cant say what kind of Caron (possibly about 4 to 6 ounces?). all i know is that its magnificently multicolored... and i used an aluminum size J (US) hook.

here are the Instructions:

ch 31

Round 1) sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across, putting 3 sc in last ch.
turn work and make sc's across other side of foundation chain, to the last chain.
make 2sc's in that one
join with sl st to top of first sc. (64 sc's around)

Round 2) ch1, sc in same sp as joining and in each around, putting 2 sc's in each of the 3 sc's on the ends. join with sl st to top of first sc. (68 sc's around)

Round 3) ch1, sc in same sp as joining and in each sc around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (68 sc's around)

Rounds 4-35 ) repeat round 3.

at end of Round 35, join and do not fasten off yarn.

Straps:

First Strap:
Row 1) ch1, turn.
sc in same st as joining and in each of next 3 sts.

Row 2) ch1, turn.
sc in each of the 4 sc's.

Rows 3-42) repeat Row 2. At end of Row 42, fasten off yarn leaving a tail for sewing. Skip over 17 stitches to the right and sew the other end of the strap there starting at the 18th stitch
weave in ends neatly.

*Note- of course you can make your straps as long or as short as you want, i just made mine 42 rows long :)

Second Strap:
join yarn with sl st, 9 stitches away from the first strap on the other side of the bag.

repeat Rows as for First Strap, fasten off yarn after the 42nd Row, leaving a tail for the sewing.

Sew the end evenly, making sure that this strap has 17 stitches between the ends, and 9 stitches between the two straps on either side.

Weave in ends neatly.

i put a slip stitch edge along the top and edges of the straps to make it look a little neater, which is just slip stitch in each stitch around... and i made a button hole for a button which i have not yet sewed on :P
i did this by making chains (in my case 20) in the appropriate place in the center of the backside on the top.

*optional- cut a length of fabric slightly wider and twice as long as the size of the bag. Sew with needle and thread into a pocket shape, and then sew that into the bag. (its easier to turn the crochet bag inside out and slip the cloth over it, then sew the open top parts together)

this is my original pattern. please do not copy or print to sell. you may link back to my blog to share, and print out a copy for your own personal use. you may also sell what you make from this pattern, though not in mass quantity.

<3 Mari

Wednesday, May 28, 2008

8 Points Round Ripple Blanket

Hi :D it's been a while since i posted on here even though i havent been (really) slacking on projects...
Here is my pattern for a round ripple blanket. i'm surprised at how it turned out cuz it started out not even looking like the picture. i'll put progress pics further on in the post so you can see what i mean.
Anyway, i used Caron Simply Soft yarn and an aluminum size J hook. The directions are a bit funky since i couldn't get the written pattern to flow the way my hook did, hopefully it's not too bad.

Instructions:

ch4, join with sl st to form ring.

Round 1)
ch4 to count as 1st dc+ch1. (cd, ch1) in ring 7 times so that you have 8 sections.

Round 2)
ch1, sc in same sp as joining *(2dc, ch3, 2dc) in next ch1 sp, sc in next dc.
repeat from * around. you will have 8 petals. join with sl st to 1st sc.

Round 3)
ch1, sc in same st as joining. dc in next 2 dc's, *(2dc, ch3, 2dc) in next ch3 sp.
dc in each of next 2 dc's, sc in next sc, dc in each of next 2 dc's*
repeat from * to * around, join with sl st to top of 1st sc.

Round 4)
sl st in 1st 2 sts.
ch2 to count as 1st hdc.
*sk i st, dc in next. (3dc, ch3, 3dc) in next ch3 sp.
sk 1 dc, dc in next stitch. sk 1 dc, hdc in next stitch.
sc2tog over next 3 stitches (you will skip the sc stitch in the middle). hdc in next dc.
repeat from * around, ending with last sc2tog over 3 stitches.
join with sl st to top of 1st hdc.


It should look like this about now kinda:


Round 5)
sl st in next stitch
ch 4 to count as 1st dc+ch1, dc in same st.
*sk 1 st, hdc in next, ch1.
3sc in next ch3 sp, ch1. sk 1 st, hdc in next, sk 1 st.
(dc, ch1. dc) in next stitch. sk 3 sts, (dc, ch1, dc) in next.
repeat from * around, ending with (dc, ch1, dc), sk last 3 stitches.
join with sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch4.

Round 6)
ch4 to count as 1st dc+ch1. hdc in next ch1 sp.
*sc in next st and in next ch1 sp, sk next hdc, sc in next
sc in center sc of next 3sc corner. sc in next ch1 sp, sk next hdc
sc in next ch1 sp and in next dc, hdc in next ch1 sp.
dc in next dc, ch3, dc in next dc. hdc in next ch1 sp.
repeat from * around, ending with ch3
join with sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch4.


Then it sort of changes... after a while it poofs on the inside and you can define the points with light shaping



Round 7)
ch3 to count as 1st dc.
dc in next ch1 sp and in next sc.
sk 1 st, dc3tog over next 3 sts.
*sk 1 st, dc in each of next 3 sts, (3dc, ch3, 3dc) in next ch3 sp
dc in each of next 3 sts, sk 1 st, dc3tog over next 3 sts.
repeat from * around, ending with (3dc, ch3, 3dc) in last ch3 sp.
join with sl st to top of beg ch3.

Repeat Round 7 respectively, continue to desired size.


this is my original pattern, please do not sell, copy, or distribute. please link back to my blog if you would like to share my pattern, it is free for your personal use. you may sell your finished products (not in mass quantity) but do not copy (or print) to sell this pattern.


Mari <3

Saturday, April 5, 2008

Baby Dress


this is my very first ever baby dress design. yay! it's original and pretty but i have yet to test the sizing :P so if anyone feels up for a challenge i would appreciate some feedback if people try to make this one :D
i made it for my cousin's baby girl (who isn't born yet) and i tried to match the size with a commercially made baby dress. which was size 3-6 months.

primarily i used an aluminum size G hook (US). and i also used an aluminum size I hook (US) for the skirt part.
on the right is a closeup of the skirt, the stitches look pretty, drape super easily, and are fast and easy even though they look kinda complicated :D

the dress works up in two pieces (front and back) which are stitched together leaving an opening for the button flap. i decided to try that type of closure instead of at the back because i don't like how sometimes you can have gaps with crochet, and this way the baby wont have to wear a shirt underneath.

here below is a picture of the front detail

And now finally! the Instructions:
*Note- i use the terms CA and CB for color A and color B. you can make yours in any and as many colors as you want, just make sure to keep track of your stitches :)

FRONT:

With G hook and CA
ch 37

Row 1) hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each across. ch2, turn. (36 hdc)

Rows 2-6) repeat Row 1.

Row 7) hdc in next 11 sts. ch2, turn. (12 hdc)

Rows 8-10) repeat Row 7. At end of Row 10, do not ch 2, do not turn. Fasten off.

Now, making sure WRONG SIDE of work faces you, join yarn like so:

count 12 stitches in, from left to right, of the stitches unworked from Row 6. Join with a sl st to the 13th st and chain 2 (counts as 1st hdc)
hdc across the remaining 11 sts.

Next 3 Rows) ch2, turn, hdc across. (12 hdc)

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.


2nd PIECE: THE BACK.

ch 37.

Row 1) hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each across. ch2, turn. (36 hdc)

Rows 2-10) repeat Row 1.

Row 11) hdc in each of next 11 sts, ch2, turn. (12 hdc)

Row 12) BUTTON HOLES ROW: hdc in next st, ch2, sk 1 st. hdc in each of next 6 sts, ch2, sk 1 st, hdc in last 2 sts. ch1, turn.

Row 13) sc in each hdc across, putting one sc in each ch2 space.

Row 14) ch1, turn. sc in each sc across. fasten off and weave in ends.

*Now would be a good time to position and sew on your buttons.

Turn pieces inside out (RIGHT SIDE facing RIGHT SIDE and WRONG SIDE facing air... or you)
and sew the little shoulder seam. Then turn the piece right side out, SWITCH COLORS! RS facing!


THE SKIRT: with G hook and CB

join yarn with sl st to center of back. sc in same st twice. make 2 sc in each st around, except when you get to the unjoined ends.
sc those together (overlapping, not decreasing) to close it up, and put an extra sc in same st. makes sense?:)
join with sl st to top of 1st sc. ch2, do not turn.

the pattern stitch for the skirt is called Crossed Bar Stitch which i first saw on Dot's page Crochet bythehook, in this pattern http://bythehook.blogdrive.com/archive/85.html

in my tiny miniscule slight variation: (since all sts in1st row are sc and none are ch's)

yo, insert hook in same st as joining and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook)
skip 1 stitch, yo, insert hook in next st and pull up a loop (5 loops on hook)
yo and pull through all 5 loops on hook. ch1.

*yo, insert hook in same st as end of previous one and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook)
sk 1 stitch, yo, and insert hook in next st and pull up a loop (5 loops on hook)
yo and pull through all 5 loops on hook. ch1*

repeat from * to * around. The last stitch will be as follows, with only one free "hole" visible:

yo, insert hook in same st as end of previous one, and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook)
sk 1 st, yo, and insert hook in same st as beginning of 1st stitch of ROund.
pull up a loop (5 loops on hook) yo and pull through all 5 loops on hook. ch1.
join with sl st to top of 1st crossed bar stitch.

CHANGE TO I HOOK!!!

continue in this pattern, working in the ch1 spaces of previous Rounds, until you have a total of 16 Rounds of Pattern Stitch.

Next Round: ch1, sc in same st as joining. *ch1, sk 1 st, sc in ch1 sp*
repeat from * to * around, ending with ch1, join with sl st to top of 1st sc. Fasten off color.

Edging: CHANGE COLORS!! CHANGE TO G HOOK!! lol

join yarn with sl st to last ch1 space of previous Round. ch1 and sc in same sp.
(3dc in next ch1 space, sc in next) around, ending with last 3 dc in last ch1 space. join with sl st to top of 1st sc. Fasten off, weave in ends.


THE SLEEVES: with CA and G hook.

Do the sleeve without the buttons first because it's easier and you will get the hang of it.
Join yarn with sl st to anywhere on armhole, RS facing you of course. (join at armpit for no-show seam)

Round 1) sc around evenly, 32 stitches.
Please MAKE SURE there are 32 around evenly or the pattern stitch won't work. And neither will the edging.

Round 2) Work same crossed bar pattern stitch as for skirt.

Rounds 3-4) Repeat Round 2. heh.

Round 5) ch1, sc in same st as joining. ch1, *sk 1 st, sc in next ch1 space, ch1*
repeat from * to * around. join with sl st to 1st sc. Fasten off.

**When doing the sleeve with the buttons, work same as other sleeve EXCEPT:
MAKE SURE NOT TO STICH THE FLAP TO THE SLEEVE or you won't be able to fit the baby's head through.
Work carefully around, unbutton the buttons so you know what ends where, and soforth.
You will be stitching in Rounds, so don't let the Row thing bother you, the stitches will join it into a functional sleeve :)

Sleeve Edging:

1) with CB and G hook, work the same as Skirt Edging.

Neckline Edging:

with CB and G hook
Join yarn (RS facing you) to that left corner of the neck that's hidden under the button flap.
work sc's evenly all around the neck, then work sc's (still evenly) around the button flap.
sl st instead of sc where the last st should be, so that the edging fades nicely into the dress instead of poking out awkwardly.
Fasten off and weave in ends.

This is my original pattern, please do not sell it or copy it to sell it. You may print out a copy for yourself for your own use. If you want to share with friends please direct them to my blog. You may sell what you make, not in mass quantity.

<3 Mari

Friday, April 4, 2008

Shells- Patria ... a purse :)

Here is a purse i made while just playing with yarn... as you can see i still wasn't over the shells :)
i named it after my grandmother because she was on my mind while i was yeening.
i used an aluminum size I hook (US) and a small amount of WW yarn (i used Caron One Pounder)

Instructions:

chain 19.

Round 1) sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across, putting 3sc in last ch. now work free loops of same chain, 1 sc in each space, to the last one, which is same as 1st sc. put 2 sc's in same spot as 1st sc. join with sl st to 1st sc.

Round 2) ch1, 2sc in same st as joining and next sc. 1sc in each of next 16 sc. 2sc in each of next 3sc. 1sc in each of next 16 sc. 2sc in last. join with sl st to top of 1st sc.

Round 3) ch3 to count as 1st dc, 2dc in same st(sk 1 st, sc in next, sk 1 st, 5dc shell in next) around to last 4 sts. sk 1 st, sc in next, sk last unworked st and make 2dc in same st as beginning ch3. join with sl st to top of ch3.

Round 4) ch1, sc in same st as joining. (5dc shell in next sc, sc in center of next 5dc shell) around to last sc. make 5dc shell in last sc, join with sl st to top of 1st sc.

Rounds 5- 12) repeat Rounds 3 and 4.

Round 13) ch3 to count as 1st dc, hdc in next, *sc in next, sl st in next, sc in next, hdc in next, dc in next, hdc in next* repeat around. join with sl st to top of beginning ch3.

Round 14) (4sc, 2sctog) around. join with sl st to top of 1st sc.

Round 15) ch1, make 55 sc bl only, around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

Round 16) ch1, make 55 sc bl only, around. join with sl st to top of first sc.
DO NOT FASTEN OFF

Yay now the handles:
work in BL only.

1) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 10 sts. ch44. sk 12 sc's. sc in each of next 16 sts. ch 44. sk 12 sc's, sc in each of last 4 sts. join with sl st to top of 1st sc.

2) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 8 sts. *work 3sctog over next 3 sts (yes this includes the 1st ch from the first handle). sc in each of next 42 ch's. work 3sctog over next 3 sts (includes the last ch from 1st handle). *sc in each of next 12 sc. now rep from *to* for other handle. sc in each of last 2sts. join with sl st to top of 1st sc.

Now you can line your purse with cloth :D or not, either way. although the lining would give you an opportunity to put a velcro, snap, or button inside the cloth part :D

This is my original pattern. Please do not sell this pattern. Feel free to print out a copy for your own use. If you would like to share with friends, please direct them to my blog :)
You may sell what you make, not in mass quantity.

<3 Mari

It's a Hat! (It's a Square?)

this is a hat i made from shells after making like a billion Cupcake Tops from the Stitch 'n Bitch Crochet book by Debbie Stoller. i couldn't get the shells out of my brain!
So yeah, the second pic is me wearing the hat cuz i don't have a artificial head to model it with :P


i used an aluminum size I hook (US) and WW yarn.

Instructions:

Chain 4, join with sl st to form ring.

Round 1) ch2, make 16 hdc in ring, join with sl st to top of 1st hdc, not the chain.

Round2) ch1, sc in same space, sk 1 st, *5dc(shell) in next. sk 1 st, sc in next, sk 1 st, around. til there are 4 shells around. join with sl st to top of beginning sc.

Round 3) ch4, dc in same space. *ch2, sc in center dc of next shell. ch2, make (dc, ch1) twice in next sc. dc in same sc.* around til last shell. sc in top of last shell, ch2, dc in same st as beginning ch4. ch1, join with sl st to 3rd of chain 4.

Round 4) ch3, 2dc in same st as joining. (sc in next dc, 5dc in next sc) around to last unworked dc of Round. sc in that dc, then make 2dc in same stas beginning ch3. join with sl st to top of ch3.

Round5) ch1, sc in same space. *ch2, make (dc, ch1) twice in next sc, then make another dc in same st. ch2, sc in center of next shell, ch1, make V stitch-(dc, ch1, dc)- in next sc, ch1, sc in center of next shell. rep from * around to last sc. make V stitch in last sc, ch1, join with sl st to top of 1st sc.

Round 6) ch3, 2dc in same stitch. (sc in next dc, 5dc in next dc, sc in next dc<--corner made. 5dc in next sc, sc in ch1 space of next V stitch, 5dc in next sc) around til last unworked V stitch. sc in ch1 space of last V stitch, 2dc in same space as beginning ch3. join with sl st to top of ch3.

Round 7) ch1, sc in same space, 5dc in next sc. work (sc in center of next shell, shell in next sc) around. join with a sl st to top of 1st sc. (12 shells around)

Round 8) ch3, 2dc in same st. sc in center of next shell. work (shell in next sc, sc in center of next shell) around, putting 2dc in same st as beginning ch3. join with sl st to top of beginning ch3.

Rounds 9-10) Repeat Rounds 7 and 8.

Round 11) ch1, sc in same space, *(dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc) <---called shell in next round) in next sc, sc in center of next shell, repeat from * around, ending with: (dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc) in last sc. join with sl st to top of 1st sc.

Round 12) ch4, dc in same space. *sc in center dc of next shell. (dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc shell) in next sc, repeat from * around, end with sc in center of last shell, dc in same st as beginning ch4. ch1, join with sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch4.

Rounds 13-16) Repeat Rounds 7 and 8.

Round 17) ch1, 2sc in same space as joining. sc in each stitch around, putting 3sc in center of each shell. end with: sc in same st as first 2sc of Round. join with sl st to top of 1st sc.

Round 18) ch1, sc in same space as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of 1st sc. Fasten off and weave in ends. Here is Tommy the Snowman modeling the hat so i could get a good top view for ya :)
This is my original pattern. Please do not sell the peattern, but do feel free to print out a copy for yourself for your own use. If you would like to share my pattern with friends, please direct them to my blog :) You may sell what you make, not in mass quantity.

<3 Mari

Thursday, April 3, 2008

Woooooo Awesomeness

i finally got some time to try to update my blog (yay!)
and after a frustrating while of trying to reset my password... since i had forgotten it and couldnt remember what it could possibly be... i have accomplished bloggyness :D
so hopefully by tomorrow i will be posting new patterns and stuff..
it is way super late here and i originally wanted to post a pattern from my notebook but my eyes are all googly and blurry. it's a miracle i can still type :P
soooooo yes.
get ready!!!

<3