Knit Tassel Hat

i really have to take the time to figure out how to import blog posts from Microsoft Word...

cuz i have no skills on this blogger thing.

this is my tassel hat :) i made it last night ya.

it's almost identical to the Elana hat, except i measured way better, and the decreases are different... and theres a friggin i-cord with a tassel on it. awesome. oh ya, and i did it entirely on size 8 dpn's :)

i used jamie classic yarn (less than one skein) in Lilac

and US size 8 dpn's (set of four)

some scissors for the total of 2 (or 3 or 4) snips

and my cell phone (didn't have a piece of cardboard to wrap the yarn around for the tassel.. it worked out fine)

cast on 90, distribute evenly among three needles (30 stitches each)

join without twisting (it's not hard but i did have trouble initially.. i just always make sure the foundation ridge thing is facing me on each needle now)

also, i leave my tail out so i dont have to use a stitch marker, then sew it up after the hat is done.

work k1, p1 rib for 1"

switch to stockinette, which is just plain knit stitches around.

do this until the whole piece measures about 6"

i did my decreases kind of, well, not unevenly but sporadically? maybe. here's what i did:

decrease rows:

round 1: k 8, k2tog, around.

round 2: k 7, k2tog, around.

round 3: k 6, k2tog, around.

round 4: k every stitch around.

round 5: k 5, k2tog, around.

round 6: k 4, k2tog, around.

round 7: k 3, k2tog, around.

round 8: k 2, k2tog, around.

round 9: k 1, k2tog, around.

round 10: k every stitch around.

round 11: k2tog around

continue to k2tog around until you have only 2 stitches on one needle.

make i-cord this way:

instead of turning work after k'ing the 2 stitches, slide them across to the other end of the needle and work them onto the other needle from there. pull the working yarn tight!

make i-cord as long as u want... i dont remember how many rows i did but mine is about 5 inches without the tassel.

to make tassel: wrap yarn around a flat piece of cardboard a bunch of times (example: i did 12 revolutions) tie one side- preferably the side without the beginning strand of yarn on it- with the same yarn you wrapped up. put the scissors through the yarn on the other side and cut through all the strands evenly, so the cardboard gets free and u have one side of yarn tied up in a bundle.

tie a strand around the bunch of yarns that you have (it will look more like a bell and less like a bundle of twigs). attach to i-cord.

i don't know if the tassel info is sufficient, because it's hard to describe for me without pictures... crap, i shoulda taken pictures... there are tons of instructional videos and clearer instructions online, i will have to find a good link :)

this is my original pattern, do not sell, do not copy, do not distribute in any form of publication. link to my pages to share. print out a copy for your personal use. do not reproduce this pattern or the finished product for profit.

Mari <3

Stripey Hat with Brim

i made this hat with an aluminum size I hook (US), using Red Heart Super Saver. i don't really like this yarn, but i recently just got a crapton of it after a visit to my mom's house. rescued yarn i was determined to make rescue-able :) i used less than one skein of either color. you can use one color or stripe as much as you want obviously, but either way it will be less than a skein you use.


the brim i made and then thought it was too floppy so i cut a piece off of the back of my spiral notebook at school, it's one long piece folded in half and then sewed up. the crab stitch lining actually closes up the ends of the brim, and the most difficult part of making this hat is probably either cutting the cardboardy stuff or crab stitching the long part of the brim. blech. it was easy but i'm naturally complainy about friggin everything.


super easy, super fun, all you need to know is SC, Reverse SC or crabstitch, SL ST, and how to weave yarn in and out between stitch holes lol. color changes are easy, don't ever be intimidated by stupid crap. also, practice makes awesome :)
Pattern Below!!! (pattern is for hat in pic with exact stripeys)

with first color, ch2

1. make 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook. join to top of first sc with sl st. (4 sc around)
2. ch1 (this never counts as a stitch and you will always work the first sc in the same st as joining.) 2sc in each sc around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (8 sc around)
3. ch1, make (sc in sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (12 sc around)
4. ch1, make (2sc in each sc) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (24 sc around)
5. ch1, make (2sc in sc, 1 sc in each of next 2) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (32 sc around)
6. ch1, sc in each sc around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (32 sc around)
7. ch1, make (sc in each of next 3 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (40 sc around)
8. ch1, sc in each sc around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (40 sc around)
9. ch1, make (sc in each of next 4 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (48 sc around)
10. ch1, sc in each sc around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (48 sc around)
11. ch1, make (sc in each of next 5 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (56 sc around)
12. ch1, sc in each sc around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (56 sc around)
13. ch1, make (sc in each of next 6 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (64 sc around)
14. ch1, sc in each sc around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (64 sc around)
15. ch1, make (sc in each of next 7 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (72 sc around)
16. thru 21. ch1, sc in each sc around. at end of round 21, fasten off first color. (you do not have to fasten off, you can leave the first color hanging until you finish each row, and carry it up in your finishing sl st until you need it)
    

• work 2 rounds evenly in second color, fasten off. you have 23 rounds
  
• work 3 rounds evenly in first color, fasten off. you have 26 rounds
• work 2 rounds evenly in second color, fasten off. you have 28 rounds
• work 2 rounds evenly in first color, do not fasten off. you have 30 rounds

to work brim, do not turn yet. with first color still attached, sl st about 22 stitches, keep it loose but neat so the hat can stretch but not look wobbly. in the 22nd stitch about, ch1 (remember the ch1 never counts as a stitch)

• sc in each of next 26 stitches. you can do more or less depending on the width of brim you want. i made 26 though. ch1, turn.
  
• make about 11 rows (again depending on your preference if you want a short or long brim you can add or subtract rows). make sure the last row you work is going the same direction your first row went, away from the sl st's of the brim start.
• fold brim in half without fastening yarn off. your working yarn loop will be by the outside edge of the hat.
  
• sl st into same st as last sc of first row of brim. it sounds kinda confusing maybe but it makes sense, break it down slowly if you have to. you're basically folding and tacking without sewing the short ends of the brim.
• sl st evenly along edge of hat, all the way around until you get to stitches that already have sl st's in them. fasten off yarn and weave in ends.

now you will attach the second color to the same stitch as joining, or if you carried the yarn over, huzzah, and grab it. ch 1,

• make reverse sc (crab stitches) all along the hat evenly. when you get to the brim, you will work up the unsewn side (thus sewing it together) evenly, then working the needle through the holes of row 6 or 7 (again, evenly. don't worry about making the "3sc corner stitch" or whatever, put one stitch in each hole so the edges get rounded slightly) then work down the other short edge and around the rest of the hat. fasten off yarn and weave in ends.

to make the brim more solid, cut a piece of cardboard or paperboard, make slightly smaller all over than the actual crochet brim, and stick that in the little pocket. (look under your hat, you made the brim a pocket- tah-dah!)

then using first color strand of yarn, sew the opening shut using a weave-y technique so the pattern stays smooth.
and voila, a stripey hat for you :)

this is my original pattern, do not sell. do not copy/post/distribute in any form. link to my pages to share patterns. print out a copy for your personal use. do not sell finished products.
Mari <3

AmiCute?

He's the first ami i have ever put "real" eyes on :)
he has no mouth though, but i don't mind.
i used 2 skeins of peaches n creme cotton, i'm in a red phase right now cuz i have a lot of red yarn in my stash.
and i also used and aluminum size G hook (US) those clover hooks take time to get used to but they do make a pretty stitch
a yarn needle is great too, i mean i used to be like "why do i need that when a crochet hook will weave in and out of the work just fine?" but.. a lil straight needle is a lot neater and faster working than a crochet hook. you are gonna have to sew this guy up, and he's gonna have stuffed parts that might bleed stuffing if it's not done neatly. just leave long ends on all your finished body parts and you can thread and sew away on the final step.
The Body:
ch2
1. 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. join with sl st to top of first sc. (6 sc around)
2. ch1, 2sc in each sc around. (i guess here i will note that i never count my first "ch1" as a stitch) (12 sc around)
3. ch1, (sc in sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (18 sc around)
4. ch1, (sc in each of next 2 sc's, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (24 sc around)
5. ch1, (sc in each of next 3 sc's, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (30 sc around)
6. ch1, (sc in each of next 4 sc's, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (36 sc around)
7. ch1, (sc in each of next 5 sc's, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (42 sc around)
8-21. ch1, sc in each sc around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (42 sc around)
22. ch1, (sc in each of next 5 sc's, sc2tog over next 2 sts) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (36 sts around)
23. ch1, (sc in each of next 4 sc's, sc2tog over next 2 sts) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (30 sts around)
24. ch1, (sc in each of next 3 sc's, sc2tog over next 2 sts) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (24 sts around)
25. ch1, (sc in each of next 2 sc's, sc2tog over next 2 sts) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (18 sts around)
26. ch1, (sc in sc, sc2tog over next 2 sts) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (12 sts around)
stuff body while the hole is big enough to fit fingers into
27. ch1, (sc2tog over next 2 sts) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (6 sts around)
fasten off yarn, leaving a tail at least 5 inches long. use this tail to sew up the small gap at the top of the body. ya, use your yarn needle goofy :)

The Head:
work same as body for 5 rounds
6-13. ch1, sc in each sc around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (30 sc around)
at this point if you have safety eyes, pop them in wherever you want them, since they cant be attached after you stuff and close the head.
work Rounds 24-27 of Body
fasten off yarn, leaving a tail about 10 inches long. use this tail to sew up the small gap at the top of the head and then to attach to the body. try to match like the 15th round of the head to the 25th round of the body, which is totally easy whipstitch with a yarn needle

The Legs: (make 2)
work same as Body for 4 rounds
5-8. ch1, sc in each sc around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (24 sc around)
9. ch1, (sc in each of next 2 sc, sc2tog over next 2 sc) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (18 sc around)
10-12. ch1, sc in each sc around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (18 sc around)
13. ch1, sc in first sc, sc2tog over next 2 sc. sc in next sc, sc2tog over next 2 sc. sc in each of next 7 sc, sc2tog over next 2 sc. sc in next sc, sc2tog over last 2 sc. join with sl st to top of first sc. (14 sts around)
14-25. ch1, sc in each st around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (14 sts)
sl st leg opening closed just by sl st'ing across top sts.
fasten off yarn, leaving a tail about 5 inches long on the first leg, and 10 inches on the 2nd leg.
when they are both finished, line them up next to each other so that the tail from the first leg is in the direction of the 2nd leg. sew the 2 legs lengthwise together so that they look like a pair of pants on a clothesline.
then sew the legs to the body using the longer tail

The Arms: (make 2)
work same as Body for 3 rounds
4-8. ch1, sc in each sc around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (18 sc around)
9. ch1, (sc in each of next 2 sc, sc2tog over next 2 sc) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (12 sts around)
10-20. ch1, sc in each st around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (12 sc around)
close arm openings by sl st'ing across as for legs,
fasten off yarn, leaving a tail about 8 inches long on both arms.
sew arms to sides of Body, about the 4th Round down from where the Head is attached.

And there you have it :)

This is my own original pattern. Do not sell this pattern or the products made from it. Do not copy and/or distribute in any form of publication or email. Link back to my pages to share. Print out a copy for your own personal use.

Mari <3

Make Your Point

lol. sorry.
i finished this hat yesterday morning but hadnt gotten to post the pattern because of horrendous work hours :) it's made of peaches n creme cotton and i'm not sure if its the result of tight crocheting or cuz the yarn is stiff.. but the hat is kinda.. well not the squishy kind. it's not unyielding but it's definitely got self esteem.



i used about one and a half skeins i think :) i took a weird "over the head to the side" pic to show the shape of the hat while i was wearing it.. lol it turned out hilarious as you can see but i think it's cute. anyways you have to have like 5 eyes to see it the way it is in the picture. ok pattern is under the next pic, promise :P



i used hooks sized H and G (US), aluminum. it fits my head closely but not tightly. a note- wear this hat high and pushed up on your head, so it feels like a headband before you push it all the way up.

with H hook-
ch4 and join to form a ring.

1. 10 sc in ring, join with sl st to top of first sc. (10 sc around)

2. make 2sc in each sc around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (20 sc around)

3. sc in each sc around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (20 sc around)

4. make (sc in sc, 2sc in next) around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (30 sc around)

5. sc in each sc around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (30 sc around)

6. make (sc in each of next 2 sc, 2sc in next) around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (40 sc around)

7. sc in each sc around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (40 sc around)

8. make (sc in each of next 3 sc, 2sc in next) around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (50 sc around)

9. sc in each sc around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (50 sc around)

10. make (sc in each of next 4 sc, 2sc in next) around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (60 sc around)

11. sc in each sc around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (60 sc around)

12. make (sc in each of next 5 sc, 2sc in next) around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (70 sc around)

13. sc in each sc around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (70 sc around)

14. make (sc in each of next 6 sc, 2sc in next) around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (80 sc around)

15. sc in each sc around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (80 sc around)

16. make (sc in each of next 7 sc, 2sc in next) around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (90 sc around)

17. sc in each sc around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (90 sc around)

18. make (sc in each of next 8 sc, 2sc in next) around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (100 sc around)

19. sc in each sc around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (100 sc around)

20. make (sc in each of next 9 sc, 2sc in next) around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (110 sc around)

21. sc in each sc around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (110 sc around)

22. make (sc in each of next 10 sc, 2sc in next) around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (120 sc around)

23-29. sc in each sc around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (120 sc around)

Switch to G hook at end of Round 29- (work in bl only)

30. sc in each sc around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (120 sc around)

31. make (sc in each of next 22 sc, sc2tog over next 2 sc) around. (92 sc around)

32. sc in each sc around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (92 sc around)

Fasten off yarn, weave in ends.

This is my original pattern. Do not sell this pattern. Do not copy and/or distribute via any form of publication or email. Do not sell products made from this pattern. Please feel free to print a copy of the pattern for your personal use. Link to my blog pages to share patterns.

<3 Mari

Spring-y Cloche (that's a type of hat)

i had a small amount of super bright green.. i think it's Caron Simply Soft Brites, probly about 3 oz. it was such a weirdo funky color green that it had to be made into a hat for me :)
i used an aluminum size I hook (US)

Make a magic ring

1) Make 12 sc in ring, join and pull tight. (i join at the end of my rounds no matter what, since i don't mind the seam, but you don't have to)

2) Make 2 sc in each sc around. (24 sc around)

3) sc in each sc around.

4) sc in first sc, 2sc in next. (sc in sc, 2 sc in next) around. (36 sc around)

5) sc in each sc around.

6) sc in first two sc, 2sc in next. (sc in next two sc, 2sc in next) around. (48 sc around)

7) sc in each sc around.

8) sc in first three sc, 2sc in next. (sc in next 3 sc, 2sc in next) around. (60 sc around)

9) sc in each sc around.

10) sc in first four sc, 2sc in next. (sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next) around. (72 sc around)

11) sc in each sc around.

12) sc in first five sc, 2sc in next. (sc in next 5 sc, 2sc in next) around. (84 sc around)

13-38) sc in each sc around. (84 sc around)

this is not the first nor will it be the last hat pattern of its kind. there are a ton of "cloche" or "flapper hat" patterns out there. mine is just a simple version of a 20s clothing accesory which i choose to share here in case anyone is interested in my method.

make, share, etsy/ebay, donate, but do not mass produce for profit. do not sell this pattern. do not redistribute this pattern. please link back to share. feel free to print a copy of the pattern.

Cottony Soft Scrub-Me-Up

i made this out of peaches n creme cotton, i'm not sure how much since im using Mill Ends, probly a ball and a half, maybe two. and i used an aluminum size F hook (US)

now the thing about this pattern is that it's worked to fit an individual hand (mine) lol. so i'll just approximate the idea to you here :)

it starts with chaining a length thats equal to the space from your finger tips to the meat of your palm, then working rows of sc's to slightly wider than your hand is, make sure to work in back loops only. you want your scrubby thingie to be actually capable of scrubbing :) so that's why there's ridges.

i changed it up after this but only slightly. instead of sc's i started doing dc's, still in back loops. and i did this for the width of the back of my hand.

once the whole piece was capable of surrounding my hand comfortably, i sewed it up in a tube, then sewed up one of the short ends. then i took my cotton and attached it to one side of the remaining short end that wasnt closed up (making sure to attach to the edge of one side. Make sure for yourself that you put your stitches in the right place, this is the only "tricky" part but if you don't watch out you wont have a proper thumb hole). i worked along the edge of that created opening evenly in sc's. you should be able to work rows evenly in back loops (not rounds) and there should be an open space where your thumb can peek through after about 12 rows or more.

work your sc's as much as you need to cover your hand up, so that it feels comfortable on your hand like a mitten. then once you have the right length, work a few rounds in either dc or sc (whichever you are more comfortable doing, i did dc's cuz i was running out of my first ball by this point and i wanted to make sure it was long enough.)

yes i did say rounds that last time lol. to make rounds directly after your rows, work in the same way that you have, except when you get the the end of your row do not turn.
just "jump" to the other edge and start your stitches again there, going across the other "side". you'll need to join your last stitch to the first "jump" one if you're like me and can never remember your place. if you have no problem working in rounds without joining, hoorah for you lol, carry on.

now at this point you have a mitt with a thumb hole.. so of course you need to make the thumby part :P

soooo. make a chain slightly longer than the circumference of your thumb and make a small rectangle of rows of sc's. work in back loops only. mark the place (or remember how many rows) where you will sew the swuare into a tube for your thumb. now crochet more rows of sc's, it should be a lil bit longer than your thumb actually is, from the base to the tip or vice versa actually. so you will have some extra stitches that wont be sewn together, cuz those will be the stitches that you sew to the hole on the mitten, so that it can actually become a mitten.

now here's a tip: work the "body" of the thumb straight. and then when you are working the "base" which you will not stitch together, make decreases in the beginning stitches of each new row.
to make decreases this way : ch1, put hook thru first stitch and draw up a loop. put hook thru next stitch and draw up another loop. now draw up one more loop and pull that loop through the other three on the hook.

don't be scared! it's not gonna be straight, but it will be fine. start by aligning the thumb's bottom stitches to the "bottom" of the hole. use pins if you have to. this is not an exact thing, you just have to sew as neatly as possible using the stitches that you have. sew sew sew, the ends together as evenly as possible, and when you get done you will have a mitten :) yay!

<3 Mari

Pretty Motif Thingie

well, i havent taken this off the hook yet because i keep thinking that it can totally definitely be expanded..
but also the reason im posting now it cuz dont you think this little motif thingie would look awesome joined together? like say at the points for a kinda sharp pointed hexagon beadspread or tablecloth? yes, me too.
ok so i used cotton thread, i dunno what number it is cuz its Mill Ends and there wasnt a label. but it's thicker by a lil than the size 10 (only thread ive ever crocheted with) and it has kinda a ropey feel to it, while staying super thin.
and also i used an aluminum size C hook (US)
which i know isn't really a thready hook but it's the smallest hook in my collection i could find at the moment...
Anyways, here we go:

chain 8, join with sl st to form ring.

1) ch3 to count as first dc, make 23 more dc's in ring. join with sl st to top of beginning ch3.

2) chain 1, sc in same space as joining. ch5,* skip 1 stitch, sc in next, ch5*. repeat from * to * around, ending by joining with a sl st to top of first sc. (ignore all beginning chain 1's they are not stitches)

3) sl st up to 3rd chain of first ch5 space. chain 1, sc in same stitch. ch5, *sc in 3rd chain of next ch5 space, ch5.* repeat from * to * around, ending by joining with a sl st to top of first sc.

4) sl st up to 3rd chain of first ch5 space. chain 1, sc in same stitch. ch7, *sc in 3rd chain of next ch5 space, ch7.* repeat from * to * around, ending by joining with a sl st to top of first sc.

5) sl st into first ch7 space. chain 3 to count as first dc, make 6 more dc in space, ch3, make 7 dc in same space. ch3, sl st in next ch7 space, ch3. *make (7dc, ch3, 7dc) in next ch7 space. ch3, sl st in next ch7 space, ch3.* repeat from * to * around, ending by joining with a sl st to top of beginning ch3.

this is my original pattern. please do not sell this pattern, or copy to any other website or publication. you may post links to my blog to share. feel free to print out a copy for yourself. you may sell what you make from this pattern, not in mass quantity.

<3 Mari

Chunky Yarn Hat

Ok so here goes another hat... i went to wally world with paulie for some air compressor purchasement... and they had a lot of superwarm hats there. and rather than buy an eskimo hat (they were cute but not ummm.. fashionable) i decided to make a hat of equal warmth. without the fur. lol.
this is basically the same pattern as the Winter Green Hat from a previous post, worked in chunky yarn (Bernat Softee Chunky- less than one skein) using an aluminum size J hook (US). it was fun and quick to make, the two pics make me happy even though the second one is without the extra rounds on the bottom (i put those in later cuz i tend to overstretch my hats for no reason in particular and this helps keep it the right shape and size)
Anyways here goes:

ch 31

1) sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across. (30 sc)

2) ch1, turn. Working in Back Loops Only, sc in same st as turning and in each across. (30 sc)

3-54) repeat Row 2.

DO NOT FASTEN OFF

working across ends of Rows, make sc2tog over every 2 spaces. (there should be a space for each stitch, so you will end up with 27 stitches across)

work another row in the same way, leaving you with 13 sc2tog stitches and one sc.
Fasten off yarn, leaving a long enough tail to sew up the top. (top is part you've been decreasing on.)
sl st the side of the hat closed, make sure you weave in ends or work over them so they don't show. cuz it's a worse pain to weave them in later after the things all sewn up

turn hat inside out (this will be right side in) and attach yarn with sl st to back bottom of hat (try to get it as close to the seam as possible)

make about 2 to 4 rounds of sc along the brim, joining to top of first sc with sl st at end of each round. Fasten off yarn, weave in ends.

<3 Mari

Commie Mitts (fingerless gloves)

Alright so maybe they're not. But they can have their raving illogical delusions sometimes. i made these in my favorite colors, which i have been teased for in the past. They work up really fast and are all sc, the thing that some people might have a *tiny* problem with is the sizing. i have thin hands and fingers, and sometimes the only store bought gloves/mittens that will fit me are a kids size (the stretchy knit kind) So if while working on this pattern you find that they look too small for yourself, it will be easy to just add a few more stitches to the foundation, and a few more rows to the body :) Here goes the pattern:


Materials:
fingering weight yarn (about 1 oz per mitt)
aluminum size E hook (US)

(the mitts in the pic are multicolored but the directions will be for just one color. this way you can stripe it up as you see fit if you want)

ch 37

1) sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across. (36 sc)

2) ch1, turn. sc in same st as turning and in each across. (36 sc)

3-26) repeat Row 2.

Fasten off yarn,
fold piece in half and sew into a tube shape, making sure to leave a space open for the thumb.

Cuff:
ch 11

1) sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across. (10 sc)

2) ch1, turn. in BACK LOOPS ONLY, sc in same st as turning and in each across. (10 sc)

3-24) repeat Row 2.

Fold piece in half and sew into a short tube shape. Sew to bottom of mitt.

This is my original pattern. Please do not sell this pattern. Do not copy to sell, or post to any other website or publication. Please link back to my blog to share. You may print out a copy for your use. You may sell the finished product, not in mass quantity.

Mari <3

Winter Green Hat

i recently went to Jo-Ann's (the only craft store within reasonable bus ride distance) and found some little yarn skeins on sale. They were like 1 and 3/4ths oz, which is sometimes the perfect amount to make a hat with :P so here we go!
(well.. i actually used a LITTLE bit more than one skein, so round it up to 2 oz approx WW yarn)
oh yeah and i used an aluminum size F hook (US)

ch 35

1) sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across.

2) ch1, turn. Working in Back Loops Only, sc in same st as turning and in each across. Do Not count the first ch1 of the Row as a stitch. (34 sc)

3-62) Repeat Row 2.

Sometimes people's heads are different sizes :P sooo take the flat piece at this point and see how well it fits wrapped around your head lengthwise. If it's too small, work a few more Rows in. Too big? Vice versa.


At the end of Row 62 (or preferred) Do Not Fasten Off.
Fold piece in half Wrong Side Facing Out. Join together with sl st evenly across, so that you have a longish tube with an opening on either end.
Fasten off yarn, leaving a long tail that will be used to sew up the top.
Weave tail in and out between open spaces (between stitches) evenly, making sure that you go around the piece and not through both thicknesses at once. This will give you a kind of drawstring thingie, which you will pull REALLY TIGHTLY to close.
You may need to add a few extra stitches to make sure that it's sewed up properly.
Weave in the ends.

Optional:
You may want a neat edge to your hat by the brim, which can be accomplished with a nice even round of sc's all around. Or you could just wing it and try whatever stitch pattern you want for a personalized flare. I just left mine "natural" (lol) cuz i liked it that way.


This is my original pattern. While i'm very certain there are a billion others out there like it, i came up with this on my own. You may print out a copy for your use, personal, charitable, or for profit. Do Not Mass Produce For Profit.

<3 Mari

The Blue Hat (with brim)

There are two versions to this hat, and they're not really "variations" it's just that the first one was kinda too big for my head (perfect for a big man's head or a gal blessed with some cranium) so i shortened it for the second version.
i used approximately 5 oz WW chunky yarn for the first one and probly about 3 or 4 for the second. with an aluminum size J hook (US)

Here's the first version, with notes to the second at the end:

ch2

1) 8 hdc in 2nd ch from hook. Join with sl st to top of first hdc. (8hdc)

2) ch1, 2hdc in same st as joining and in each around. Join with sl st to top of first hdc. (16hdc)

3) ch1, hdc in same st as joining, 2hdc in next. Work (hdc in next hdc, 2hdc in next) around. Join with sl st to top of first hdc. (24hdc)



4) ch1, hdc in same st as joining and in next, 2hdc in next. Work (hdc in each of next 2 hdc's, 2hdc in next) around. Join with sl st to top of first hdc. (32hdc)

5) ch1, hdc in same st as joining and in each of next 2, 2hdc in next. Work (hdc in each of next 3 hdc's, 2hdc in next) around. Join with sl st to top of first hdc. (40hdc)

6) ch1, hdc in same st as joining and in each of

next 3 hdc's, 2hdc in next. Work (hdc in each of


next 4 hdc's, 2hdc in next) around. Join with sl st to top of first hdc. (48hdc)

7) ch1, hdc in same st as joining and in each of next 4 hdc's, 2hdc in next. Work (hdc in each of next 5 hdc's, 2hdc in next) around. Join with sl st to top of first hdc. (56hdc)

8) ch1, hdc in same st as joining and in each of next 5 hdc's, 2hdc in next. Work (hdc in each of next 6 hdc's, 2hdc in next) around. Join with sl st

to top of first hdc. (64hdc)

9) ch1, hdc in same st as joining and in each of next 6 hdc's, 2hdc in next. Work (hdc in each of next 7 hdc's, 2hdc in next) around. Join with sl st to top of first hdc. (72hdc)

10) ch1, hdc in same st as joining and in each of next 7 hdc's, 2hdc in next. Work (hdc in each of next 8 hdc's, 2hdc in next) around. Join with sl st to top of first hdc. (80hdc)

11) ch1, hdc in same st as joining and in each around. Join with sl st to top of first hdc. (80hdc)



12-22) Repeat Round 11.

23) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each around. Join with sl st to top of first sc.

Fasten off yarn. Weave in ends.

Brim: (make 2)
ch2.

1)5hdc in 2nd ch from hook. (5hdc)

2) ch1, turn. hdc in same st as turning, 2hdc in next.
(hdc in next hdc, 2hdc in next) once.
hdc in last hdc. (7hdc)

3) ch1, turn. hdc in same st as turning, 2hdc in next.
(hdc in next hdc, 2hdc in next) twice.
hdc in last hdc. (10hdc)

4) ch1, turn. hdc in same st as turning, 2hdc in next.
(hdc in next hdc, 2hdc in next) 4 times. (15hdc)

5) ch1, turn. hdc in same st as turning, 2hdc in next.
(hdc in next hdc, 2hdc in next) 6 times.
hdc in last hdc. (22hdc)

6) ch1, turn. hdc in same st as turning and in each across. (22hdc)

7) Repeat Row 6.

8) ch1, turn. hdc in same st as turning, 2hdc in next.
(hdc in next hdc, 2hdc in next) 10 times. (33hdc)

9) ch1, turn. sc in same st as turning and in each across. (33sc)

10) ch1, turn. sc in same st as turning and in next sc, 2sc in next sc.
(sc in each of next 2 sc's, 2sc in next) across. (44sc)

Fasten off yarn.

Once you have your 2 pieces made, put them together RS facing out, join yarn with sl st to the right of the curved end. sl st that end together so you have a little pocket with the flat side open.
Cut cardboard or plastic canvas to fit nicely into pocket (i used a cereal box) and sl st shut, leaving a long tail to sew.

Sew Brim to hat by inserting the flat side under last Rounds of hat. Sew evenly to last hdc Round. Weave in ends.

SECOND VERSION:

follow original instructions to Round 19.

20) with an aluminum size F hook (US),
ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 7 sts.
sc2tog over next 2 sts.
Work (sc in each of next 8 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts) around.
Join with sl st to top of first sc. (72 sts)

Fasten off yarn. Weave in ends.

Work Brim same as original. Sew Brim to Round 18 on hat from the outside.
Fasten off yarn, weave in ends.

This is my original pattern. Please do not sell, or copy to sell, this pattern. Do not copy and post to any other website or publication. You may print out a copy for your use. Please link back to my blog to share the pattern. You may sell the finished product, not in mass quantity.

Mari <3

Paulie-Star Square

i made this up the day before yesterday on a laundry-mat trip. i usually bring my current project along to keep my brain busy while paulie is playing his DS. sometimes we look over at what the other is doing :)
anyways, i had these two colors in my bag that day and decided to just wing it. this stuff happened, and then paulie named it after himself. when i asked him if i should alternate the colors, he said Nope, cuz he likes the "star" in the middle.
i used WW yarn and an aluminum size I hook (US)

Pattern:

with first color:
ch6, join with sl st to form ring

1) ch3 to count as first dc. Make 15 dc in ring, join with sl st to top of beginning ch3. (16 dc)

2) ch1 (this does not count as a stitch). sc in same st as joining. *(3dc in next dc) twice. sc in each of next 2 dc*, rep from * to * around. Last stitch on round will be an sc. Join with sl st to top of first sc. Fasten off yarn
(you will have four "hills" and four "valleys")

join second color with sl st to 3rd dc of any "hill"

3) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in next. *hdc in next, dc in next. Make (3tr, ch3) in next sc, 3tr in next. dc in next dc, hdc in next, sc in each of next 2 dc* rep from * to * around. Last st of round will be an hdc. Join with sl st to top of first sc.

4) ch3 to count as first dc, dc in next sc. *skip 2 sts, make (dc, ch2, dc) in next tr, skip 2 sts, make (3dc, ch5, 3dc) in next ch3 space. skip 2 sts, make (dc, ch2, dc) in next tr, skip 2 sts, dc in each of next 2 sc's* rep from * to * around. Last sts will be (dc, ch2, dc) in last tr, skip remaining 2 sts. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch3.

fasten off yarn, weave in ends.

this is my original pattern. please DO NOT SELL the pattern. do not copy or post to any other website or publication. you may print out a copy for your personal use only. please link back to my blog to share.

<3 Mari

Amigurumi Flower and Flower Pot

hi :) i've been working on this little flower thing for a few weeks
it came into my brain one night when i was supposed to be sleeping
i hurried up and started, and i got the whole thing done in about 2 days minus the flower petals... the flower petals took several tries, after which i just opted for the most simple of methods :)
the whole thing is worked top down in one piece, and then the leaves are sewn on, then the petals are worked right onto the top of the flower.
hope you enjoy!

Materials:
aluminum size G hook (US)
small amounts (less than 3 oz each color) of WW yarn in yellow, green, black(or brown), flower petal color of choice, and flowerpot color of choice
fiberfill for stuffing
(optional) fuzzy pipecleaners for "bendability" and structure of flower stem

Pattern:
starting with YELLOW (work in rounds. ch1 at beginning never counts as an sc)

ch2
1) 10sc in 2nd ch from hook. join with sl st to top of1st sc (10sc)

2) ch1, 2sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of 1st sc (20sc)

3) ch1, sc in same st as joining. 2sc in next sc. (sc in next sc, 2 sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (30sc)

4) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in next. 2sc in next. (sc in each of next 2 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (40sc)

5-10) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (40sc)

11) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in next. sc2tog over next 2 sc's, (sc in each of next 2 sc, sc2tog over next 2 sc's) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (30sc)

12) ch1, sc in same st as joining. sc2tog over next 2 sc's, (sc in next, sc2tog over next 2 sts) aroundjoin with sl st to top of first sc. (20sc)

13) ch1, (make sc2tog over next 2 sts) around. join with sl st to top of first st. FASTEN OFF YELLOW

*stuff as you go along, since it will be really hard to stuff the whole flower at one time on account of the narrow stem... if you have decided to do the bendy stem, put your piple cleaners in the head of the flower and hold them in place as you work while stuffing*

join GREEN with sl st to any st of previous round

14) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (10sc)

15-45) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of first sc
AT END OF ROUND 15, FASTEN OFF GREEN.

join BLACK (or brown) with sl st to any st on previous round

46) ch1, 2sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (20sc)

47) ch1, sc in same st as joining, 2sc in next sc. (sc in next sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (30sc)

48) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in next sc, 2sc in next. (sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (40sc)

49) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 2 sc. 2sc in next. (sc in each of next 3 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (50sc)

50) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (50sc)

51-52) repeat round 50. FASTEN OFF BLACK

join FLOWER POT COLOR to any st on previous round, work in BACK LOOPS ONLY thoughout round 53

53) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (50sc)

54) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

55) ch1, USE BACK LOOPS ONLY throughout this round, sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

56-62) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

63) DECREASE ROUND- ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 2 sc. sc2tog over next 2 sc's (sc in each of next 3 sc, sc2tog over next 2 sc's) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (40sts)

64) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (40sc)

65-66) repeat round 64

67) DECREASE ROUND- ch1, sc in same st as joining and in next, sc2tog over next 2 sc's, (sc in each of next 2 sc, sc2tog over next 2 sc's) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (30 sts)

68-70) repeat round 64. (30sc)

71) DECREASE ROUND- (work in BACK LOOPS ONLY throughout this round) ch1, sc in same st as joining, sc2tog over next 2 sc's, (sc in next sc, sc2tog over next 2 sc's) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (20sts)

72) DECREASE ROUND- ch1, sc2tog over same st as joining and next sc, (sc2tog over next 2 sts) around. join with sl st to top of fist st. (10sts)

73) DECREASE ROUND- repeat as for round 72. (5sts)

FASTEN OFF YARN, leaving a long tail for sewing hole shut. weave taol in and out between sts of last round and pull tight for drawstring effect closure. it should close neatly and evenly with no bumps.

FLOWER POT BRIM:

with FLOWER POT COLOR, join with sl st to any free loop on Round 55 (remember back loops only? this is why)

1) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

2-5) repeat round 1. fasten off yarn at end of Round 5.
weave in ends.

LEAVES: (make 4, as you will pair them up, stitch them together and lightly stuff them before sewing them onto the stem of the flower)

with GREEN,
ch2

1) sc in 2nd ch from hook (1 sc)

2) ch1, turn (sc never counts as an sc). 2sc in sc of row 1. (2 sc)

3) ch1, turn. 2 sc in same st as ch1, and in next. (4 sc)

4) ch1, turn. 2sc in same st as ch1. sc in each of next 2 sc's, 2sc in last sc. (6 sc)

5) ch1, turn. 2sc in same st as ch1 and in each of next 4 sc's, 2sc in last sc. (8sc)

6) ch1, turn. sc in same st as ch1, and in each across. (8 sc)

7-10) repeat Round 6. (8 sc)

11) ch1, turn. sc2tog over first 2 sts, sc in each of next 4 sc's, sc2tog over last 2 sts. (6 sts)

12) ch1, turn. sc2tog over first 2 sts, sc in each of nexr 2 sc's, sc2tog over last 2 sts. (4 sts)

13) ch1, turn. sc2tog over first 2 sts, sc2tog over last 2 sts. (2 sts)

14) ch1, turn. sc2tog over those 2 sts. (1 st)

ch1, turn. sc evenly around the whole piece. Fasten off.

once you have all your pieces, pair them up RIGHT SIDES FACING OUT
join together as evenly as possible, using sl st. stuff lightly with fiberfill before closing up.
sew one leaf to the right on the flower stem and the other to the left.

FLOWER PETALS: (this SOUNDS complicated maybe, but it is VERY easy. you will be joining yarn to "head" of the flower and then working in rounds (2)

join FLOWER PETAL COLOR to any st on Round 9 of flower (top yellow part) with a sl st.
you should insert the hook with the flower face facing you, not through the tops of the sts but from bottom to top longways

chain 7
sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in each of next 2 sts, dc in each of next 3 sts. join with sl st to 3rd st over on flower head. make sure u have the sts on the same Round. (flower petal made- ya, it will curl in, dont worry about that)

continue in this way around the Round. now the sts by the end will come up uneven but that's alright just work the petals in neatly.

for the second round of petals, after u have joined the first round to itself, sl st into Round 8 of the flower head, the top yellow stuff.
work another round of petals in the same way

fasten off yarn, weave in ends

now you can either paint or embroider your faces on the flower and flower pot. or you can use safety eyeballs, felt or what have you. OR you can leave it be faceless :P whatever you prefer

this is my own original pattern. please DO NOT SELL this pattern. do not copy to any other website or publication. you MAY print out a copy for your own personal use. please link to my blog to share. you may sell the finished product, although not in mass quantity.

<3 Mari

Slippers of Mari-ness (row 30 revised due to error)

(well here's one slipper anyway)
i made these slippers after studying up on how to go about making things for the feetses :D i saw a lot of cool patterns online for socks and slippers, and some of them actually work out really comfortably. but for some strange mari reason i wanted to get my own thing done. i appreciate all the help i got from looking things up :)
see my initial problem (i thought at first) was the heel of the footwear. how to get it to slip on without having to do all that crazy heel shaping mumbo jumbo that sock makers love so much. im a simple girl and i like things to work without me having to really think about them lol. so i took what i knew about socks and feet and slippers and crochet and applied all of it. so i came up with this pattern. im sure that there are a bunch out there that are similar but i figured i'd put out my version of simplicity, for the sake of diversity and stuff.
anyways here it goes:
i used an aluminum size J hook (US) and one 3.5 oz skein of Bernat Softee Chunky yarn
my shoe size is a womens 6 (US), i made these to fit over socks so they might be able to stretch to about a size 8 or 9 depending on the type of yarn you use and the tension in your stitches. MAKE SURE IT'S CHUNKY YARN, if not, use two strands of WW together

MAKE TWO:

ch6
1) sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across to last ch.
Work 3 sc in last ch.
turn piece and work in free loops of beginning chain like so:
sc in each st across to last ch
work 2 sc in last ch, join with sl st to top of first sc.

2) ch1, 2 sc in same st as joining
sc in each of next 3 sc's
2 sc in each of next 3 sc's
sc in each of next 3 sc's
2 sc in each of last 2 sc's. join with sl st to top of first sc.

3) ch1, 2 sc in same st as joining
2 sc in next sc
sc in each of next 3 sc's
2 sc in each of next 6 sc's
sc in each of next 3 sc's
2 sc in each of next 4 sc's. join with sl st to top of first sc.

4-18) work in back loops only
ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each around
join with sl st to top of first sc.

at end of Round 18, do not fasten off. you will be working in Rows next.

19) do not turn.
sl st into the next 6 sts.
now ch1, turn.
working over the sl sts, and in front loops only:
sc in each sc.
do not join.

20) ch1, turn
working in back loops only:
sc in each sc across

21) ch1, turn
working in front loops only:
sc in each sc across

22-28) repeat Rows 20 and 21 alternately

29) ch1, turn
working in front loops only:
sc in each of first 10 sc's
make (sc2tog over next 2 stitches) until there are only 10 sc's left in the Row
sc in each of last 10 sc's

30) ch1, turn
working in back loops only:
sc in each of first 4 sts
make (sc2tog over next two stitches) consecutively until there are only 5 sts left on that Row
sc in each of last 5 sts

Fasten off yarn leaving a long enough tail to sew the heel up.

turn heel inside out and whipstitch closed.
if you whipstitch it right side un, it leaves a weird bump all along the sewed up part so i do it when its inside out.
turn right side in.

Attach yarn with sl st to top opening of slipper
Make 2 Rounds of sc's evenly around top of slipper. Fasten off yarn, weave in ends.

This pattern is not to be sold. Please do not copy to any other website or publication. It is a free pattern for your personal use, and you may print out a copy for that use. Please link back to my blog to share.

<3 Mari

Go Green!

here is a cool mesh bag i made up. i posted the pattern on Crochetville already so i won't go through all the agony of typing it out again lol
i used 2 strands of yarn held together throughout the pattern, and an aluminum size I hook (US)
it works up in pretty much one piece, except for the second handle. this picture makes the colors look really washed out, it's acrually pretty vibrant green and multicolored.
Here is a link to the post with the pattern :)
Go Green! Bag

Hope you enjoy!
Oh wait, here is a closeup pic, it has the colors showing better even though its a tiny bit blurred

Preemie Baby Dress

i made this from a pattern posted by a fellow Crochetville member. Here is the URL to the pattern (copy and paste to your browser if you can't click it) :

http://www.crochetville.org/forum/showthread.php?t=85318

it was very easy and worked up in less than two hours, using very little yarn. This is perfect to make for donations to hospitals, or for doll dresses. i think mine came out a bit bigger than preemie size though. maybe newborn to three months, because the pattern calls for cotton and i used Caron Simply Soft, a worsted weight yarn.
Hope you enjoy the pattern as much as i did!

Simple Granite Stitch Purse

i made this purse while i was making all those other ones in my previous posts. somehow i forgot to get it in here.
it is a super easy purse using Granite Stitch pattern which is simply sc's and chains alternating. and it was all done in rows in one flat piece, then folded in half and sewn together. the strap is done in the same stitch and then sewed on from the inside (i used the seams as sort of stitch markers for placement)
it's made with WW yarn although it would most definitely be less stretchy in cotton or nylon or even thread (although that would give you a teeny tiny purse)
and an aluminum size F (US) hook
i would say folded up my purse body came to about 4 by 6 inches, so its a fairly small bag. definitely line this purse with cloth, because stuff will fall through the little holes in the pattern.
Anyways here is the pattern :)

Purse Body:
chain 31

1) sc in second chain from hook
(ch1, skip next chain, sc in next) across

2) ch1, turn
sc in first sc and in the ch1 space
(ch1, skip next sc, sc in next ch1 space) across

continue to work the rows in this way. when if you come up to the last sc of a row and there arent any more chain spaces, just put an sc in that last stitch

also it works the other way around. when you come to the start of a new row and the first st is an sc and the second is a chain, put an sc in both of them.

so anyways, continue in this way until you have 52 rows (or how ever many you desire)
at the end of your last row, fasten off the yarn. fold the piece in half evenly, and slip stitch the sides together. now you have a pouch (yay!)

Purse Straps:
making sure you have a nice long enough tail (for sewing) on the end of your starting chain,
chain 100 (or however many you desire for length)
and work back and forth in the same way you did for the purse body, for 4 rows
of course you can make the strap as wide or skinny as you like.
when you have finished the strap, fasten off the yarn leaving a long enough tail to sew the other side.

sew the straps so that they make a cross with the seams on the body of the bag, and then turn it inside out. now you have a little bag with straps (yay some more!)

now i opted to make a long chain and thread it through the top of my bag for a closure, but you might want to try a button, a snap, or a zipper, so i'll encourage you to have your own way with it :)

Mari

Deviator Mesh Tote

so i've been working on this round ripple blanket for like... a month? and its the longest time i've ever spent ignoring a project. i just cant seem to motivate myself for it.
in its place ive been making bags :D
this one i named Deviator cuz it caused me to deviate from my original RR plans and into the purse/tote world. its really easy, just uses DC's and chains and Sl St to join
i used an aluminum size N (US) hook and WW yarn since i never have anything else... i think this bag would be more durable in cotton or nylon. anyways i used Caron One Pound (not the whole thing! far from it) i'm hoping to squeeze out 2 more bags from whats left over

Instructions:
chain 4, sl st in 1st chain to make ring
you will work in joined rounds, no turning.

1) ch4 to count as first dc+ch1
(dc, ch1) 7 times in ring
join with sl st to 3rd ch of beginning chain 4

2) sl st into next ch1 space
ch4 to count as first dc+ch1. dc in same space, ch1
(dc, ch1) twice in each ch1 space
join with sl st to 3rd ch of beginning chain 4

3) sl st into next ch1 space
ch4 to count as first dc+ch1
*(dc, ch1) twice in next ch1 space, (dc, ch1) in next*
continue around in this way, join with sl st to 3rd ch of beginning chain 4

4) sl st into next ch1 space
ch4 to count as first dc+ch1. (dc, ch1) in next ch1 space
*(dc, ch1) twice in next ch1 space
(dc, ch1) in each of next 2 ch1 spaces*
continue around in this way, join with sl st to 3rd ch of beginning chain 4

5) sl st into next ch1 space
ch4 to count as first cd+ch1. (dc, ch1) in each of next 2 ch1 spaces
*(dc, ch1) twice in next ch1 space
(dc, ch1) in each of next 3 ch1 spaces*
continue around in this way, join with sl st to 3rd ch of beginning chain 4

6) sl st into next ch1 space
ch4 to count as first dc+ch1. (dc, ch1) in each of next 3 ch1 spaces
*(dc, ch1) twice in next ch1 space
(dc, ch1) in each of next 4 ch1 spaces*
continue around in this way, join with sl st to 3rd ch of beginning chain 4

7) sl st into next ch1 space
ch4 to count as first dc+ch1
(dc, ch1) in each ch1 space around
join with sl st to 3rd ch of beginning chain 4

8-20) repeat round 7

after round 20, do not fasten off yarn,


STRAP:
1) sl st into next ch1 space
ch4 to count as first dc+ch1
(dc, ch1) in each of next 3 ch1 spaces
dc in next ch1 space so u have 5 dc's and 4 ch1 spaces

2) ch4, turn
(dc, ch1) in each of next 3 dc's
dc in last dc

3-22) or desired length
repeat Row 2

Fasten off leaving a long enough tail for sewing.
sew strap to corresponding end of bag

*optional- make neat rounds of sc along both sides of strap and opening of bag.
(it will be rounds cuz you will work one side of the body of the bag and go up one side of the strap, join and fasten off yarn
then do the same for the other side.

**also optional- make a chain to your desired length and thread it through the top round of meshes. mmhmm it's a drawstring.

this is my original pattern, please do not copy or print to sell
link back to my blog to share, you can print out a copy for your use
and you may sell finished product

Mari

Little Orenji Purse

aluminum size I (US) hook
WW yarn, or preferred

Make Two:

1) ch5.
dc in 5th ch from hook, ch1
(dc, ch1) 4 times in same space
dc in same space

2) ch3, turn
dc in same sp as turning
2 dc in each st across

3) ch3, turn
dc in same sp as turning, ch1
(sk 1 dc, ch1, 2dc in next ch1 space, ch1) across
ending with 2dc in last stitch

4) ch3, turn
dc in same st as turning, ch1
(sk 1 dc, dc in next ch1 space, 2dc in next dc) across
ending with 1 dc in last stitch

5) ch3, turn
dc in same sp as turning, ch1
(sk 1 dc, dc in next dc, ch1, sk 1 dc, 2dc in next ch1 sp, ch1) across
ending with 2dc in last ch1 space, ch1, sk 1 dc, dc in last stitch

6) ch3, turn
dc in each of next 3 sts, 2dc in next
(dc in each of next 4 sts, 2dc in next) across
ending with dc in each of last 4 sts

do not turn, do not break off yarn.
ch multiples of 5 (example i chained 50 for the purse in the picture)
join with sl st to other side of the crescent

Handles Row which turns work into Rounds
7) ch3, turn
dc in each of next 4 sts, 2dc in next
(dc in each of next 5 sts, 2dc in next) around
join with sl st to top of beg ch3

8) ch1, sc in same sp as ch and in each around
join with sl st to top of first sc

Fasten off yarn.
On the Second Half, (make two, remember?) do not fasten off. instead,
join pieces together, facing desired side, and Slip Stitch together
matching stitch for stitch evenly, all the way around.

Fasten off yarn, join at one edge where the straps start.
Slip stitch the straps together, then work sc's evenly around the mouth of the bag.
join and fasten off yarn.


This is my original pattern, please do not copy or print to sell. It is free for your personal use. Please link back to my blog to share, you may print out a copy for your use. You may sell what you make from this pattern, though not in mass quantity.

Mari <3

Multicolor Tote

woooo yeah i made this tote in one day (actually less than that but i had to eat, shower, and be the cheering section for my boyfriend while he played a new racing game on the computer)
it's super easy and uses only single crochet... and a chain of course and slip stitches for joining.. derr.
so anyways here it is just for you!
i used Caron yarn that are Mill Ends so i cant say what kind of Caron (possibly about 4 to 6 ounces?). all i know is that its magnificently multicolored... and i used an aluminum size J (US) hook.

here are the Instructions:

ch 31

Round 1) sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across, putting 3 sc in last ch.
turn work and make sc's across other side of foundation chain, to the last chain.
make 2sc's in that one
join with sl st to top of first sc. (64 sc's around)

Round 2) ch1, sc in same sp as joining and in each around, putting 2 sc's in each of the 3 sc's on the ends. join with sl st to top of first sc. (68 sc's around)

Round 3) ch1, sc in same sp as joining and in each sc around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (68 sc's around)

Rounds 4-35 ) repeat round 3.

at end of Round 35, join and do not fasten off yarn.

Straps:

First Strap:
Row 1) ch1, turn.
sc in same st as joining and in each of next 3 sts.

Row 2) ch1, turn.
sc in each of the 4 sc's.

Rows 3-42) repeat Row 2. At end of Row 42, fasten off yarn leaving a tail for sewing. Skip over 17 stitches to the right and sew the other end of the strap there starting at the 18th stitch
weave in ends neatly.

*Note- of course you can make your straps as long or as short as you want, i just made mine 42 rows long :)

Second Strap:
join yarn with sl st, 9 stitches away from the first strap on the other side of the bag.

repeat Rows as for First Strap, fasten off yarn after the 42nd Row, leaving a tail for the sewing.

Sew the end evenly, making sure that this strap has 17 stitches between the ends, and 9 stitches between the two straps on either side.

Weave in ends neatly.

i put a slip stitch edge along the top and edges of the straps to make it look a little neater, which is just slip stitch in each stitch around... and i made a button hole for a button which i have not yet sewed on :P
i did this by making chains (in my case 20) in the appropriate place in the center of the backside on the top.

*optional- cut a length of fabric slightly wider and twice as long as the size of the bag. Sew with needle and thread into a pocket shape, and then sew that into the bag. (its easier to turn the crochet bag inside out and slip the cloth over it, then sew the open top parts together)

this is my original pattern. please do not copy or print to sell. you may link back to my blog to share, and print out a copy for your own personal use. you may also sell what you make from this pattern, though not in mass quantity.

<3 Mari