Amazing Nook Sock

Here's my Nook sock :) i have a Nook Tablet that my husband got me last Christmas, and it's pretty awesome. i used the other half of that skein of Wool-Ease from my favorite hat to make it.

also some size 4 double pointed needles (4 of them)  :) here goes:

cast on 30, distribute evenly among 3 needles, join without twisting work

work in (k1,p1) rib for about 10 inches (give or take, actual Nook length is 8.1" so anywhere between 8.5 and "insert number bigger than 8.5 here" will work awesomely).

to do the decreases... well, i screwed those up and decided it looked fine anyway... but to do them like mine i just started doing k2tog every first 2 stitches on each needle, regardless. it made a weird point that i liked the look of.

you can always do yours smoother by using ssk instead of k2tog, and by not decreasing all the way down so you can sew the bottom cleanly and pointlessly :P

fasten off yarn and weave in ends. yeah, it looks really skinny. try it on!

this is my original pattern, please do not sell it since it is provided here for free. please do not take credit for my "design" :) but you can share and link, and sell what you make, whether in craft fairs or some sort of person to person networking. don't print or copy to distribute for money or otherwise, or use my pictures as if they were your own (oh crap, i should put that on all my posts...). you're welcome, i think.

the end,
love, mari

Comfystretchyrollycute

seven months is a long time to not be posting, eh? i'm pretty sure i've had the time... just that it got away from me before i realized it... anyway, sorry about that :)
to help make up for my lazy, i'll post a kind of general pattern of my favorite knit hat. even though it's hot as heaven's alternative ;) here we go!

i used a skein (more about half) of Lion Brand Wool-Ease
and size 8 double pointed knitting needles (4 of them)... i have circulars but they bother me somehow that i can't articulate yet or possibly ever...

cast on 66 stitches, distribute 22 stitches evenly to 3 needles, join without twisting work.

knit every round evenly for about 7 inches, then start the decrease like so:

round 1: (fight!) <--kidding... k2tog every first and last 2 stitches on each needle, you will have 6 decrease stitiches

round 2: k every stitch

repeat rounds 1 and 2, so that the decrease rounds are "cushioned" by regular knit rounds, until there are 4 stitches on each needle. you can either bind off or sew them shut using a drawstring-ish style.. or you can decrease all the way til there are no more stitches, but that might leave you a point (which is ok if you like that sort of thing).
i believe i drawstringed it at 4 stitches though.

fasten off yarn and weave in the end, and you have hat!

see?:)

this is my original (if lame and simple) pattern, straight out of my own brains.. (i forget how to do these notes)
please don't sell this pattern since i've provided it for free, but the work of your own hands is your business so feel free to sell finished product if you like, at fairs/garage sales/to friends or friends of friends or coworkers/church bazaars/etc.

the end,

love, mari

Mimi Hat

took me a lil longer than it should have to finish this hat. it's very simple and only uses sc stitches and sl st to join. i named this hat after one of my aunts :) because it's made in a vibrant color and its simple stitches create a beautiful pattern with a soft drape. it's elegant and practical (i.e. warm as heck)

Materials:
1 skein of Bernat Satin (i used the color Aqua)
aluminum US size I hook (for hat "body")
aluminum US size G hook (for hat brim)
scissors! (ya, you will have to make 2 whole snips)
optional: yarn needle (for neat pretty seam on brim)

Pattern:
with I hook, ch2

1. 10 sc in 2nd ch from hook, join with sl st to top of first sc. (10 sc around)
work in BL ONLY always.

2. ch1 (which never counts as a stitch), 2sc in each sc around, join with sl st to top of first sc. (20 sc around)

3. ch1, sc in same st as joining, 2sc in next sc. work (sc in next sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (30 sc around)

4. ch1, sc in same st as joining and in next, 2sc in next sc. work (sc in each of next 2 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (40 sc around)

5. ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 2, 2sc in next sc. work (sc in each of next 3 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (50 sc around)

6. ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 3, 2sc in next sc. work (sc in each of next 4 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (60 sc around)

7. ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 4, 2sc in next sc. work (sc in each of next 5 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (70 sc around)

8. ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 5, 2sc in next sc. work (sc in each of next 6 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (80 sc around)

9. ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 6, 2sc in next sc. work (sc in each of next 7 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (90 sc around)

10. ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 7, 2sc in next sc. work (sc in each of next 8 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (100 sc around)

11. ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 8, 2sc in next sc. work (sc in each of next 9 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (110 sc around)

12. ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 9, 2sc in next sc. work (sc in each of next 10 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (120 sc around)

13-26. ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each sc around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (120 sc around)

at end of round 26, fasten off yarn and weave in ends.


Now to make the Brim:
with G hook, ch 13 (make sure to leave a long tail at the start for sewing)

1. sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across. (12 sc)
remember to work in BL ONLY :)

2-76. ch1 (which never counts as a stitch), sc in each sc across. (12 sc)

if you have a smaller or larger head, adjust rows accordingly :) try to end with an even number row so that it looks uniform when you sew it all up (which is the next step!)
DO NOT FASTEN OFF yet (if you did... meh, you can always just join the yarn again)

use yarn needle to sew brim into a circular "fits around my head" headband tube.
THEN!!! fold the headband in half lengthwise, so the thickness is doubled but it still fits around your head. sc ends together. don't use sl st because you will need the sc's there to work on.
join with sl st to top of first sc.


remember you're working in BL ONLY
work 2 more rows of sc around the headband (still using G hook), increasing evenly or randomly (whichever, hehe) so that you have 120 sc's around. you need to have that many so you can match the first part of the hat to the 2nd part.

MATCH seam to seam the 2 parts. it's easy if you stick the hat body RS facing into the WS facing headband and sl st together.
once you have stitched everything together, fasten off yarn and weave in ends. just flip the brim up and you have the Mimi Hat!




This is my original pattern. Do not sell this pattern. Do not copy or publish to any other publication. Do not send pattern in emails. Link to my pages to share. Print out a copy for your personal use. Do not sell products made using this pattern.

Mari <3

My Curly Clown

This is my version of a clown my mom used to make. She winged them (meaning she made them up as she went) so there was no pattern. i know that she used sc for the arms and legs but i'm lazy and i like things fast, so i used dc. when she saw him in person she was like "he's so skinny!" lol. my version was on a diet, and he's also apparently smaller than the ones she made. oh well.
you'll need stuffing, like a couple fists full
i used one ball of peaches n creme cotton and an aluminum size G hook (US) for the body
for the hat i used the same hook but different yarn, it was like baby weight yarn. took for friggin ever to get the hat done cuz i had to work so much over the past couple days... :)
also the hat is different in my version. my mom's was more pointed nightcap looking with a pompom on the end, and it had a ruffle on the brim as well as around the neck.



SO!! here goes. i started with the arms. (make 2)

ch 30
- dc in 4th ch from hook.
4dc in each ch across to last ch.
dc in last ch.
Fasten off yarn.
(the yarn curls/ruffles as you work, smooth it in the direction you want)

NOW!! the legs. (make 2)

ch 40
- dc in 4th ch from hook.
4dc in each ch across to last ch.
dc in last ch.
Fasten off yarn.

AND!! the head. (make one ;) )

ch 2
- 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- ch1, 2sc in each sc around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- ch1, sc in same st as joining, 2sc in next. (sc in next sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- ch1, sc in same st as joining and in next. 2sc in next. (sc in next 2 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 2. 2sc in next. (sc in each of next 3 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 3. 2sc in next. (sc in each of next 4 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 4. 2sc in next. (sc in each of next 5 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each sc around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- repeat last step until there are a total of 6 rounds in plain sc.

- ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 4. (sc2tog, sc in each of next 5 sc) around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 3. (sc2tog, sc in each of next 4 sc) around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 2. (sc2tog, sc in each of next 3 sc) around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- ch1, sc in same st as joining and in next. (sc2tog, sc in each of next 2 sc) around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- ch1, sc in same st as joining. (sc2tog, sc in next sc) around. join with sl st to top of fist sc.

- by this point you should be stuffing the head. don't worry about overstuffing, this stuff squishes and flattens and all of whatever.

- ch2, (sc2tog) around. this round will about close up the hole.

- Fasten off yarn, leaving a long enough tail to sew the little hole shut for sure.

sew the arms and legs to the head
you can paint on your face or embroider it (i tried that even though i sucked at it). or u can get those safety eyeballs that i've seen and admired but could totally not afford.

THEN!! the hat. i did mine in baby yarn and will give my pattern for it but you can totally use other thicker yarn with a few less rounds from the pattern.

ch4, join with sl st to form ring

- make 10 sc in ring. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- sc in each sc. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- 2sc in each sc around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- sc in each sc. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- sc in first sc, 2sc in next. ( sc in sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- sc in each sc. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- sc in first sc and in next, 2sc in next sc. ( sc in each of next 2 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- sc in each sc. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- sc in first sc and in each of next 2, 2sc in next sc. (sc in each of next 3 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- sc in each sc. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- sc in first sc and in each of next 3, 2sc in next sc. (sc in each of next 4 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- sc in each sc. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- sc in first sc and in each of next 4, 2sc in next sc. (sc in each of next 5 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- sc in each sc. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- sc in first sc and in each of next 5, 2sc in next sc. (sc in each of next 6 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- sc in each sc. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- sc in first sc and in each of next 6, 2sc in next sc. (sc in each of next 7 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- sc in each sc. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- sc in first sc and in each of next 7, 2sc in next sc. (sc in each of next 8 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- sc in each sc. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- sc in first sc and in each of next 8, 2sc in next sc. (sc in each of next 9 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- sc in each sc. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- sc in first sc and in each of next 9, 2sc in next sc. (sc in each of next 10 sc, 2sc in next) around. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- sc in each sc. join with sl st to top of first sc.

- repeat last step until there are a total of 4 rows of plain sc.

put hat on head, fasten in place if you like.

this is my original pattern. do not copy or post to any other publication. do not sell this pattern or copies of this pattern, or the products made from it. link to my pages to share if you like. you may print out a copy for your personal use.

<3 Mari

Winter Green Hat

i recently went to Jo-Ann's (the only craft store within reasonable bus ride distance) and found some little yarn skeins on sale. They were like 1 and 3/4ths oz, which is sometimes the perfect amount to make a hat with :P so here we go!
(well.. i actually used a LITTLE bit more than one skein, so round it up to 2 oz approx WW yarn)
oh yeah and i used an aluminum size F hook (US)

ch 35

1) sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across.

2) ch1, turn. Working in Back Loops Only, sc in same st as turning and in each across. Do Not count the first ch1 of the Row as a stitch. (34 sc)

3-62) Repeat Row 2.

Sometimes people's heads are different sizes :P sooo take the flat piece at this point and see how well it fits wrapped around your head lengthwise. If it's too small, work a few more Rows in. Too big? Vice versa.


At the end of Row 62 (or preferred) Do Not Fasten Off.
Fold piece in half Wrong Side Facing Out. Join together with sl st evenly across, so that you have a longish tube with an opening on either end.
Fasten off yarn, leaving a long tail that will be used to sew up the top.
Weave tail in and out between open spaces (between stitches) evenly, making sure that you go around the piece and not through both thicknesses at once. This will give you a kind of drawstring thingie, which you will pull REALLY TIGHTLY to close.
You may need to add a few extra stitches to make sure that it's sewed up properly.
Weave in the ends.

Optional:
You may want a neat edge to your hat by the brim, which can be accomplished with a nice even round of sc's all around. Or you could just wing it and try whatever stitch pattern you want for a personalized flare. I just left mine "natural" (lol) cuz i liked it that way.


This is my original pattern. While i'm very certain there are a billion others out there like it, i came up with this on my own. You may print out a copy for your use, personal, charitable, or for profit. Do Not Mass Produce For Profit.

<3 Mari

Simple Squares Bag

this is a really easy bag i made using half a thing of aunt lydia's crochet cotton.. i dunno what that thingie is called that its wrapped around lol, it looks like a toilet paper roll to me...
it works up real fast cuz its very basically just three squares in sc, joined together funny and then i just added a strap... well the strap is actually in 2 parts and then tied together in the middle but you'll see :D
i used an aluminum size G hook.


Instructions:
First Square (body of bag)
1) ch2, 8 sc in 2nd ch from hook. join with sl st to 1st sc. (8sc)
2) ch1, sc in same st as joining. (3 sc in next sc, sc in next) around. join with sl st to 1st sc. (16 sc)
3) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in next. (3sc in next sc, sc in each of next 2) around. join with sl st to first sc. (24 sc)
4) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in next 2. (3sc in next sc, sc in each of next 3) around. join with sl st to 1st sc. (32 sc)
5) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 3. (3sc in next sc, sc in each of next 4) around. join with sl st to 1st sc. (40 sc)
6) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 4. (3sc in next sc, sc in each of next 5) around. join with sl st to 1st sc. (48 sc)
7) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 5. (3sc in next sc, sc in each of next 6) around. join with sl st to 1st sc. (56 sc)
8) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 6. (3sc in next sc, sc in each of next 7) around. join with sl st to 1st sc. (64 sc)
9) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 7. (3sc in next sc, sc in each of next 8) around. join with sl st to 1st sc. (72 sc)
10) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 8. (3sc in next sc, sc in each of next 9) around. join with sl st to 1st sc. (80 sc)
11) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 9. (3sc in next sc, sc in each of next 10) around. join with sl st to 1st sc. (88 sc)
12) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 10. (3sc in next sc, sc in each of next 11) around. join with sl st to 1st sc. (96 sc)
13) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 11. (3sc in next sc, sc in each of next 12) around. join with sl st to 1st sc. (104 sc)
14) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 12. (3sc in next sc, sc in each of next 13) around. join with sl st to 1st sc. (112 sc)
15) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 13. (3sc in next sc, sc in each of next 14) around. join with sl st to 1st sc. (120 sc)
16) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 14. (3sc in next sc, sc in each of next 15) around. join with sl st to 1st sc. (128 sc)
17) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 15. (3sc in next sc, sc in each of next 16) around. join with sl st to 1st sc. (136 sc)
18) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 16. (3sc in next sc, sc in each of next 17) around. join with sl st to 1st sc. (144 sc)
19) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 17. (3sc in next sc, sc in each of next 18) around. join with sl st to 1st sc. (152 sc)
20) ch1, sc in same st as joining and in each of next 18. (3sc in next sc, sc in each of next 19) around. join with sl st to 1st sc. (160 sc)
Fasten off and weave in ends.


Second Square- make 2:
work the same as First square for 6 Rounds only.
do not fasten off, instead:
sl st into the next st over, and start joining the square to one side of the big one. (it doesnt really matter which side cuz they're all the same number of stitches... just make sure u stitch the other small square to the side opposite it)
i joined my squares with sc, but i guess u could use whatever stitch u want :)
make sure that the 3sc corners of the little square all get joined to only one st on the big square (per corner)
what i did for my corners was just like a 3sc decrease, joined to the one corresponding stitch on the big square.


now after you have joined your squares, whip stitch the top opening closed a little bit if you like... i whip stitched 12 sts on each side for a little mouth opening, but you can do it however you like, or use a zipper or what have you. now for the straps!


Straps- make 2:
making sure to leave a long tail in the beginning (for sewing, duh)
ch 71 (or desired)
1) sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across. then flip the work over so that the stitches are upside down, and work an sc in each of the free loops.. oh make sure u put 3 sc's into each end or it will curl kinda tight.
fasten off and weave in that end. then go back to the long tail from the beginning, and use that to whip stitch your strap to the side of your bag (this is why i joined my squares with sc, cuz it was easier for me to see the stitches)


once u have got both straps attached, tie them together in a knot or a bow, and voila! a simple litte purse! :D
i use mine for my extra hooks, measuring tape, a few writing utensils, and my scissors..


this is my original pattern. please do not sell it, or copy it to another web site. you may sell the finished product if you wish. please link back to my blog :)


Mari

Simple Sweater

i made this sweater all in single crochet, its very soft but a bit breezy, so you might want to wear something under it if its cold, or use 2 strands of yarn at once for thickness. this is just a prototype, which of course i then made a gift of :) yay me. i used some 3.5 oz balls of yarn- 4 of the main color (with a lot of the 4th ball left over) and 1 of the contrasting color (also with a lot of the ball left over. and i used a plastic size N hook. this fits a women's size small/medium, but you can change the size easily by chaining more stitches on the beginning foundation and adding more rows to the body for length.


2 colors: MC and CC


Instructions: with MC, ch 121


Row 1) sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across.


Row 2) ch1, turn. sc in each sc across. (make sure u always have 120 sc across)


Rows 3-17) Repeat Row 2.


Row 18) change to CC and Repeat Row 2.


Row 19) (to make neck) ch1, turn. sc in each of 1st 50 sc. ch 20, skip next 20 sts. sc in each of last 50 sc.


Row 20) ch1, turn. sc in each sc and ch across. fasten off CC.


Rows 21-36) change to MC and Repeat Row 2.


At the end of Row 36, turn butdo not ch1. fold piece in half lengthwise so that the last Row worked and the Foundation chain meet.


Making sure that each stitch matches up, sl st (thru both thicknesses) in each of next 40 sts, to join sides and make sleeve. Fasten off, then with same side facing and counting left to right, skip 39 sts and join yarn to 40th st. sl st in each of last 39 sts. Fasten off and weave in ends.


You will now be working in Rounds.


Round 1) without turning work, join yarn with sl st to the farthest st to the right (the same st as last joining sl st of first sleeve). sc in each st around, including where 1st and last stitches of joining were made for sleeves. (80 sc around)


Round 2) ch1, turn. sc in same st as joining and in each around. join with sl st to top of first sc. (80 sc)


Rounds 3-4) Repeat Round 2.


Rounds 5-6) change to CC and Repeat Round 2.


Rounds 7-12) change to MC and Repeat Round 2.


Rounds 13-14) change to CC and Repeat Round 2.


Rounds 15-34) change to MC and Repeat Round 2.


Round 35) (dec shaping round so the body doesnt look all ripply) ch1, turn. sc in same st as joining and in each of next 6. dec over next 2 sts. (sc in each of next 7sc, dec over next 2 sts) around. join with sl st to top of 1st sc. (72 sts)


Round 36) ch1, turn. sc in each st around. join with sl st to top of 1st sc.


Neck:
Work 2 Rounds of sc around neck opening, making sure to sc dec over the 3 sts in both corners of 1st Round. Fasten off and weave in ends.








this is my original pattern. please do not sell this pattern, but you can print a copy for your personal use. if you feel the need to share with friends, please link back to my blog. you may sell the finished product if you wish, but dont forget to give credit where it's due!


Mari